Suunto D6 battery change "How To"

[Leisure Pro Brett]

Yeah, The first picture is indeed photoshopped ( or in this case GIMP'D ). Our rep was in a hurry and my camera was upstairs, so I had to start with the battery change before I actually got my hands on the camera. I had to make up the replace battery screen.

 

[Antarctic-Adventurer]

In case anyone else wants to replace their D6 battery here is my experience on using this guide to replace mine. The job was successfully completed with no problems. Thank you Brett for posting this guide. It helped a lot.

Just one thing to note though, I did come across the different types of CR2450 batteries. In fact, I could only find the type that appears NOT to fit in the D6. I searched shops all over the city I live in (Kyoto), and it seems that now there is only one type of CR2450 available, (here at least). On first inspection it looked as if the battery neck protruded too high to fit in the D6's battery compartment but I tried it and it worked. It was a slightly tighter fit than the battery that came out but it didn't seem to cause any snags.

I don't have access to a pressure pot so I took the risk that the change had been successful. (All seemed to look fine). I have done 22 dives with it so far (down to a maximum depth of 30m) and all is well.

This is a straightforward battery swap if done with care. The guide here works well.

Thanks again. :cool2:

AA

 

[ickybingh]

Your testing method is ill-advised. At the very least, you need to pressurize the watch in air to at least 6 bar (which = 60 meters), then submerge it into water, then release the pressure to see if bubbles come out of the watch. To do this, you need a special test chamber which most shops don't have, let alone consumers. Most reputable watch shops use extremely accurate, high end pressure testers the measure case deflection.

 

[Antarctic-Adventurer]

Your testing method is ill-advised. At the very least, you need to pressurize the watch in air to at least 6 bar (which = 60 meters), then submerge it into water, then release the pressure to see if bubbles come out of the watch. To do this, you need a special test chamber which most shops don't have, let alone consumers. Most reputable watch shops use extremely accurate, high end pressure testers the measure case deflection.

This message is referring to whom exactly?

How would your described test method help at all anyway?

Incidentally, 6 bar = 50 meters, no 60. Total pressure at 60 meters is 7 bar.

 

[ickybingh]

I was refering to the Leisure Pro guy's D6 battery change post.

The test method prevents water from entering the watch if there is a leak. When pressurized in air, the watch's internal pressure will be greater than the surrounding pressure (when pressure is relieved from the chamber) and bubble will come from the watch, but water will not enter.

Technically, you're correct about the depth, but pressure is usually gauge pressure and not absolute pressure. Have you ever see PSIg or PSIa?

 

[Antarctic-Adventurer]

Technically, you're correct about the depth, but pressure is usually gauge pressure and not absolute pressure. Have you ever see PSIg or PSIa?

Seen it with my own eyes on a gauge? No. But I know what it is.

 

[Leisure Pro Brett]

Your testing method is ill-advised. At the very least, you need to pressurize the watch in air to at least 6 bar (which = 60 meters), then submerge it into water, then release the pressure to see if bubbles come out of the watch. To do this, you need a special test chamber which most shops don't have, let alone consumers. Most reputable watch shops use extremely accurate, high end pressure testers the measure case deflection.

ickybingh, I understand the testing method you are referring to is widely used in the watch industry and as a method for testing the seal integrity of the watch / computer it is very useful and will not let any moisture into the computer. The problem lies with the construction of many dive computers with all their extra sensors, different materials etc. the computer can actually be damaged by pressurization in air. I really don't like testing the computers in water, but I'd rather do that than damage the computer by testing it in air. My standard practice is to do a very careful battery change, make sure everything is clean inside and out, then seal it up. For the pressure test, take the computer on a test dive, watching it while diving, making sure readings are correct and inline with the conditions. Then after the dive give the watch or computer a little heat, a small desk lamp next to the computer or even a small flashlight. This will cause fogging on the screen even if just a very small amount of water has made it into the computer. The idea being that if it's just a drop of nice clean fresh water from the test chamber then the computer will probably be ok and you can look into the problem. Or better yet you find the computer is sealed properly and did not flood. The quote below is taken from the suunto D6 manual.


CAUTION
• Do not use compressed air to blow water off the unit.
• Do not use solvents or other cleaning fluids that might cause
damage.
• Do not test or use the dive computer in pressurized air.

 

[Paul_D]

Unfortunately Brett taking every dive computer I change batteries on is not practical. Plus I would rather find a leak in fresh water, than salt. Plus, I couldn't offer the 24hr turn around that I do.

How deep do you take the watches when you test dive them? I drop all my watches to 40m

I appreciate your comments on not testing the Suuntos in just air which is correct but when you test them in a proper chamber you drop take them to 1 or 2 bar (which is 10-20m on my chamber, before anyone posts!)

Submerge in water and then I take them to 40m, then de-pressurize while watching for escaping bubbles.

If there is a bubble leak I can deal with it straight away and not have to worry about a salt water flood or how quickly I can get myself back to the surface to rinse it out... oops to late thats my £600 D6 flooded because I can't bolt to the surface, I have to sit doing a safety stop looking at my flooded D6.

Maybe there is something to be said about not tampering with your kit and getting it serviced by registered dealers, if it floods; it's their fault. The only issue with battery replacements is that they're a very simple job which people get charged the earth for or have to send their computers away for a period of time.

Bearing in mind the people who are reading this forum, most may not have the correct skills or tools to do the replacement correctly.

I think the key issue here is having the correct tools for the job. A D9 in the UK costs around £700-£800. a pressure chamber costs around £400. Probably worth buying a pressure chamber!

My advice over and above Bretts is... if you can't afford to replace your diving computer, get a professional to replace the battery. If you have all of the right tools and the skills then go for it, it's a fairly easy job.

 

[Leisure Pro Brett]

Paul_D,
Sorry for the misunderstanding, when I was referring to a test dive was a “dive” in the pressure pot while submerged in fresh water, simulating a dive on the computer in question. This lets us watch the computer looking for any signs of a leak while at the same time checking to verify that the computer is working properly and reading accurately. The fresh water in the pot assures that the watch will not be damaged by being pressurized in air and of course if there is a leak we should notice it right away and it will be fresh water as opposed to salt. When testing the computers I usually take them to 130 Ft, I figure the recreational scuba limit is a good depth to test to, though sometimes I will talk to the customer if their max depth in the dive history isn’t that deep to see if they mind me messing up their history with my testing. When the “test dive” is complete I will set the watch near a lamp or put a small flashlight next to it so that it warms up a bit, this lets me see if the watch leaked even a little because the screen will fog if it has.

Sure there is something to be said with not servicing your gear yourself, but I think the opposite is true as well. You said yourself that some places charge a ton for battery changes (for just the reason you mentioned, if it floods they are on the hook) but many people don’t have a place to service a computer anywhere near them. I have gotten messages of thanks and even phone calls from all over the world just to say thanks for the battery change info. Agreed, some people cannot change their D9 battery, for that matter there are plenty of people who can’t change the batteries on a user changeable dive computer. But I am happy to put the info out there for the people who are ready to give it a try and feel comfortable doing it themselves.

 

[Paul_D]

Okay, that's clearer, it's the same test I run.

Agreed on the info part, I've lost count on the amount of time I've stripped down kit for people on dives. Basic knowledge and maintainance of one's own personal kit is a must. I try to pass that knowledge on to other divers so next time they can be a bit more self sufficient.

Keep up the good work!