Sunpak G-Flash Underwater Strobe

[f3nikon]

In conclusion the Sun Pak G-flash is still the way to go…just look at the ACTUAL pictures as proof.

The G-flash has more than (plenty) enough light to properly expose an UNDERWATER image! I see no UNDER exposed pictures, on the contrary the G-flash seems to be on the OVER powered side!

And that difference in light coverage angles can go right out the window because of the DIFFUSER used on the G-flash. Even with the diffuser the G-flash is still capable to over expose an underwater image, look at the pictures!

And the reason why? Did we forget that golden rule in shooting underwater photography? About shooting as CLOSE as possible, the closer the better!

This gives the G-flash more than enough power and coverage for any macro or medium angle underwater photography…from which I am seeing is 97% of all the underwater pictures.

Using a DS-125 on anything but extreme wide angles is like using a 10 pound hammer to drive a Thumbtack in a hot cube of butter! 70% of the light energy is WASTED, lighting a portion of the reef or open water that is NOT even in the final IMAGE!

Maybe it would help if we called Sun Pak to tell them that their strobes are grossly UNDER priced and we would feel much more secure (photo quality wise) in paying $600 (not including the arms and tray) for the G-flash!

 

[f3nikon]

Vandit,

I once did an experiment to help myself better understand the capabilities of my strobe, a DS 125. With some gray construction paper I cut out a form that resembled the beam angle it projected. With the aid of a protractor I traced out lines of 50° angles on either side of a three inch line (the width of the strobe head). This produced a beam ange of 100° (50+50). I then cut out the shape created and placed it in front of the strobe lens. This enabled me to get a better picture of what my strobe was capable of illuminating.

Check out the attached image for an example of my test:

You just made my point, with a camera to subject distance of 20 inches. Are the camera's lens wide enough to cover most of the area within the gray paper cut out? Unless you have an ultra wide fisheye lens of 180 degrees coverage, most of the light energy will being wasted for nothing.

Lets also not forget the SIZE and WEIGHT of a DS-125 compared to a compact G-flash, so one will need stronger $300 strobe arms to hold a DS-125!

And the stories I have read is that the DS-125 leaks, not from the battery compartment but the front strobe lens, flooding the flash bulb itself!

 

[SeaYoda]

hi seayoda,
I am only a beginner in u/w photography, One question. Does the strobe flash simultaneously with the camera oly 5060wz. Should I cover my internal flash with a diffuser to trigger the strobe? or can i use also the internal strobe to have more light in my shots. sorry for these questions. hope you could help.

Sea Yoda are you using the flash with a 5060? are you using the flash with a diffuser

I have a 5050 so I don't know much about any differences between it and the 5060. The Sunpak triggers off of the internal flash of the 5050. I set the internal flash to "slave" mode and set the level to 1 (the lowest level). I use a fiber optic cable that transmits light from the internal flash up to the sensor on the front of the strobe. The sensor can be triggered without the cable but in bright water it is hard for the sensor to "see" the flash from the internal. I cover the internal flash diffuser on the housing so that no light comes straight from the camera. This reduces the nasty backscatter that happens with the internal flash (this is also why I set the internal flash to the lowest level). I tried the Sunpak without the diffuser and found exactly what bobf said about the beam angle to be true. It has a very tight, bright beam. It was hard to control especially for a noob like me. I put the diffuser on and I will never take it off. It helps tremendously in spreading the light around. I'm sure I loose some of the effective distance of the light, but given the amount of particulate matter in the water here, I won't need more than three feet anyway. I have added a focus light that I have not used yet. It is able to move independently from the strobe so that I can "dial it in" to help me position the strobe in a way as to not point directly at the subject. I will reserve final judgment on how well the Sunpak "paints the edges" until I get a little more experience with the focus light set-up. I believe it will be tight compared to the more expensive strobes, but at the price, I can buy another one to fill in the shadows and be a two strobe noob .

The strobe may not be for the "Pro" but it does what I need so far. It is a great improvement over the internal flash. It boils down to what you expect for $200. It delivers its money's worth by far in my opinion. Just like some of us are best suited for point and shoot vs. DSLR, some of us will be well served by a strobe like this.

Here is the pic of my rig, you can see the covered internal diffuser and the diffuser that covers the strobe. You can also see where the cable connects to the strobe's sensor.

 

[scubaaaronh]

Did the flash come with the diffuser? the pics you have posted did you use the diffuser? I am really thinking of buying it for my wife for valentines(she'd kill me its for my camera) the tray is what camt with it right, and then you added the lock line? where did you get the lock line from? I like the setup you made and am thinking of copying it with the modeling light if you dont mind. I might have some questions when i get my flash.

 

[f3nikon]

Did the flash come with the diffuser? the pics you have posted did you use the diffuser? I am really thinking of buying it for my wife for valentines(she'd kill me its for my camera) the tray is what camt with it right, and then you added the lock line? where did you get the lock line from? I like the setup you made and am thinking of copying it with the modeling light if you dont mind. I might have some questions when i get my flash.

B&H Photo says the diffuser is included:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&Q=&is=REG&O=productlist&sku=307876

http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/SPKGF.html

That "buying for my wife for Valentines" sounds like a great idea, I wonder if getting "power tools" for my wife on Valentines will work just as well.

 

[SeaYoda]

Did the flash come with the diffuser? the pics you have posted did you use the diffuser? I am really thinking of buying it for my wife for valentines(she'd kill me its for my camera) the tray is what camt with it right, and then you added the lock line? where did you get the lock line from? I like the setup you made and am thinking of copying it with the modeling light if you dont mind. I might have some questions when i get my flash.

The hermit crab and the pics in the following post http://www.scubaboard.com/showpost.php?p=1348695&postcount=1
are without the diffuser. The others are with it.

The diffuser and handle came with the strobe.

I attached the loc-line segments to the handle to get the strobe away from the camera (to decrease the backscatter). If you get the strobe, I'd be glad to share how I built my arm.

I got my loc-line parts from http://modularhose.com/. The light is a UK Q40. Maybe by the time you get your strobe I will have used my new set-up and you can benefit from my mistakes before you make one just like mine .

 

[Aggie Diver]

bobf,

Good stuff, but Yoda was not using a diffuser, which if I am understanding it right helps spread out that beam some.

 

[scubaaaronh]

My wife didn't like the idea of me buying it for her for valentines. But maybe it well work with yours and the power tools. Nikon do you think that it is a good strobe for the diver using basically on one vacation a year with a c5060? you seem to know your stuff on flashes and i have only really used my cam with white balance or onboard for close ups.

Thanks sea yoda i will be asking questions after i get a flash so keep good notes.

 

[bobf]

but Yoda was not using a diffuser, which if I am understanding it right helps spread out that beam some.

One function of a diffuser is to lower the temperature of the light beam, which may be beneficial the further away you are from the target. Another function of the diffuser is to soften the light in order to help minimize harsh shadows. And a third benefit from a diffuser is to knock down the intensity of the strobe beam. The Ike diffuser reduces strobe output by a full stop. Inon offers three optional diffusers that will stop the light produced by its strobe by either -0.5 stop, -1.5, or -3 full stops.

As far as a diffuser spreading light.........

Julian, aka Jolly, the strobe moderator over at wetpixel once brought up what I felt was a very good point when discussing homemade diffusers from plastic milk jugs. Julian questioned how a diffuser with a flat surface (milk jug plastic) could in theory aid "dramatically" in the spreading of the light beam. I know that the Ikelite DS 125 diffuser is slightly curved. Possibly SeaYoda could report back and share with us the shape of the G Flash diffuser's outer surface. If indeed the G Flash diffuser is curved, then I would tend to agree that it too will help spread the light beam. If it isn't curved, then I'm not sure, but a simple test could confirm.............

hth,
b

 

[f3nikon]

Nikon do you think that it is a good strobe for the diver using basically on one vacation a year with a c5060?

Bingo! First Sea Yoda is more qualified to answer your question because he has this unit and more important he has the same if not similar camera as yours. That said, in my opinion, the G-flash and a few other low cost strobes would be perfect for a one to one hundred vacations a year!

But why limit it to one vacation? Because the G-flash works just as well on land as it does underwater! Actually the G-flash was design for hikers/explorers for use in very harsh wet environments it just happens to work well underwater.

As soon as you receive your strobe, mount your 5060 (without the U/W housing) to the G-flash tray, attach the diffuser and start taking pictures of everything around you on land! Understand that strobe on land before even getting it WET.

Take pictures of objects that are less than 2.5 feet away, in manual mode or aperture priority mode. Go through all the f-stops, ½ power or full power on the strobe, you need to control that light output at will!

I would keep the 5060 attach to the G-flash permanently until you take it in the water then you add the housing. Till then take the G-flash everywhere, to weddings, parties, hiking, indoors or out, you must learn the interaction between the camera and strobe. Take pictures animals,plants and insects, remember less than 2.5 feet away. If the the light is over powering lower the power or add more diffusers.

Believe me you do not what to start learning this stuff at the beginning of your vacation!
If everything works out I can bet you will be using this strobe more on land than you would underwater.

Note: When taking pictures indoors that have low, light color ceilings, aim the strobe 45 degrees towards the ceiling for “bounce” flash, folks will wonder how you lit up the entire room.

If you get stuck just ask.

Dive Safe

Al