Strobe setup for PT-10 Housing

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Yeah, you're right about extending the range of your camera's abilities. That's why I got my strobes. I still think that the internal flash with the diffuser does a better job than the external strobes for macro shots up to 12", assuming not too much particulate matter is in the water. When you get the strobe, try attaching a diffuser to it for macro shots. The YS-90DX comes with a diffuser, but you can't use it with the fiber optic cable attached to the strobe. You can make a diffuser with a piece of semi-opaque plastic or similar material. I saw a thread several weeks ago where somebody had instructions and photos of a home-made diffuser.

For the farther shots, on the strobe's medium power I can get good lighting up to about 4' (with a lower f-stop and shutter speed), and on full power I can get reasonably good results up to 6'. Beyond that I'll start to get washout. But for those shots of pelagics and silhouettes, you're probably better off turning off the flash and avoiding any backscatter.
 
The fiber optic cable attaches on one end to a collar that fits around the strobe and the other end plugs into a collar in a piece of velcro that is attached to the front of the housing, covering the internal flash. When the cameras flash goes off it triggers the strobe to go off....all in hundredths of a second. Any strobe that will work in slave mode will attach in this manner.

I think the guys answered your other questions. Here's a photo of my PT-10 on the Fisheye tray with Infinity arm and S&S YS90DX strobe. The housing isn't straight because it's not tighted down, just together for the quick photo.

aai.jpg


I have added some length to my Infinity arm. Yuzo will sell you sections to do that.
 
Dee,

How nice of you to set up the photo of your rig! And wonderful pics too! Seems as though I got a free education today.


Thanks again....
 
Dee, maybe the next photo of the day series should be trays and strobes.....

Here's the Fish Eye double handled tray with carrying top, PT-010 housing, ULCS arms, YS-90DX strobes, and fiber optic cables. Note that I jerry-rigged the Velcro covering to take on two cables. The provided pattern is normally made for one cable only.
 
Another choice for strobe/arm/tray would be Ikelite.
Either DS50 or the more powerful DS125 strobe would also work very well for your setup as well.
As far as strobe goes, I think DS125 and Inon 220Z would be relatively close in power rating while the D180 and DS50 would be about the same, the Sea and Sea YS90 somewhere in between. The Ikelite tray/handle is a bit bulkier. The deluxe arm is similar to ULCS arm (ball/socket type).
The biggest selling point for Ikelite would be excellent service that I doubt Inon/Sea and Sea can match, if anything should happen to your equipment.
Mind you, the most powerful strobe, is really only good for about 4-5 feet at full power (assume F5.6).
However you will get much wider dispersion which is very handy for wide angle shot and more flexibility in lighting position for macro. Fiber optic vs photo sensor is one of those personal preference. Personally I hardwired my strobe to my camera but it is not an option with C3040.
Inon, Ikelite, and Sea and Sea YS90 auto (I believe) has its workaround for TTL which may or may not work in various situation.
Here is a link for Ikelite picture: http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/ds50_pkg1.html
 
Dee once bubbled...
Any strobe that will work in slave mode will attach in this manner.

So...what would I need to use my Nikonos SB-105 strobe with my C-4000/PT-010?

My understanding was that the C-4000's pre-flash makes this unworkable.
 
I am one of those people who still doesn't have a strobe but watch all this info sharing as I contemplate one.
There is a post by "Jeff" at:
http://www.digitaldiver.info/yabbse/index.php?board=3;action=display;threadid=3320
on DigitalDiver.net that links to a dowloadable PDF format of a comparison of some of the more popular strobes. It also has photos of the light differences between them. It is a great piece of research. I am torn between the Inon D180 with its focusing light and the more powerful Inon Z220S without one. The Inon Z220 has a laser and focusing light but is more suitable for the TTL camera setups.
 
You're correct. I forgot to mention about the pre-flash. Your Nikon strobe will not work. At this point the only strobes I know of made for digital cameras come from Sea & Sea, Inon, Epoque, and Ikelite. Someone please correct me if I've forgotten any.

Gilligan.....if the focusing light is all that leaning you to the D-180, have you thought about mounting your own and using the Z220s?
 
I agree with Dee. The Z220s with mounted modeling light would be better than D180. However you won't get TTL with D180. If you plan to shoot manual and use manual strobe setting then it does not matter anyway.
Mind you, I read the article on digitaldiver and I think the Ikelite, especially the DS125 came out rather poorly mainly because for some reasons it does not seem to work well with its photosensor for TTL control (I still don't know why the DS50 works well while the DS125 does not). There was really no comment regarding the DS125 otherwise in the manual mode or with manual controller.
Oh well.. from the side by side comparison, it gives higher light intensity than other at warmer color temperature and similarly wide disperson of light, built in modeling light etc. I think the only advantage the Z220s has over the Ikelite is the more compact package.
Eventually I think I might add a second strobe to my setup and was thinking about the Z220s for awhile but a few months ago Ikelite repaired my flooded DS125 for free (I just paid the shipping cost, not really sure what their policy is fror repair though), I think I will stick with Ikelite.
 
Dee once bubbled...
You're correct. I forgot to mention about the pre-flash. Your Nikon strobe will not work. At this point the only strobes I know of made for digital cameras come from Sea & Sea, Inon, Epoque, and Ikelite. Someone please correct me if I've forgotten any.

Ah..well you did kind of get my hopes up though.

What is a barely used mint condition SB 105 worth anyway (used on about 2 dives since Nikonos replaced my exploding strobe of death SB 103 with the SB 105)

And would anyone like to swap there digital camera compatible strobe for an SB105. Give you a real deal on the Nikonos III also.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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