Stripping & painting AL Tanks

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

FredT once bubbled...


Naval jelly is a jel form of phosphoric acid. Acid eats aluminum, but nowhere near as fast as a caustic like lye.

Acid = high in H+ ions
Caustic = high in HO- ions

Both are bad for light metals, but caustic is orders of magitudes worse. If you remember dry Drano drain cleaner the active ingredients were dry lye and aluminum chips. Just add water and stand back.

FT

Does that mean I can or can't use Naval Jelly on Al tanks, or no?
:confused:
 
thethumper once bubbled...


Does that mean I can or can't use Naval Jelly on Al tanks, or no?
:confused:

:banging: Naval jelly is designed to be used to remove rust, NOT paint!

I have never seen a case where it would be needed on AL!


That said, I'd avoid it if possible. There is a product called "Aluminum Jelly" used to brighten structural & architectual aluminum railings if heavily discolored, but the discoloration is caused by a tightly adhering passive corrosion film that actually helps prevent seawater corrosion. Leave it be unless you have other overriding considerations.

FT
 
That would be a no. That's sufficient. I used to use Naval jelly to strip blocks & heads of paint, that's why I asked. The adhesive on the paint on these 2 Al80's is shot. I peeled the VIP & Mnfgr stickers off & the paint came w/it. I was able to flake it off w/my nail. So it's back to bare Al & Scotch Brite.

Thanks!
 
I have used black beauty to blast all of my aluminum 80's. I leave it sans paint and they have so far lasted 2 years with no problems. Both have been through Hydro and multiple vis+ inspections as well as being thrown around. Marking is not as noticable and no paint to peel. Our local lds only rents aluminum tanks that came with a blasted, raw finish...they always look new!
 
Hi ppl,

Anyone ever tried to paint over his tank? I want to draw a pic. or something like that?
has anyone tried that before?
which kind of paint? how to make sure it will last?

If not, what do you think about a sticker?
 
Do not apply direct heat to your cylinders...

350 degrees F is enough to condemn an aluminum cylinder!

Also, stickers that MAY obscure corrosion/cuts/dings/gouges SHOULD be removed during the Visual Cylinder Inspection done by a PSI Certified inspector.

What image did you have in mind?

C_C
 
I'm cgecking before trying anything that might cause any damage. :)

BTW: I have a steel tank, if that mattrs.
 
Repainting your tank may cause you problems at your next visual inspection - this is one of the indicators that a tank may need to be referred for hydro. The inspector can't see what you hid under the paint job and will also be concerned about that you might have baked the finish and destroyed the tank.

Additionally, getting paint to adhere to the surface of many tanks is very difficult. Galvanized finishes and other surfaces aren't designed to take paint well and you should never thermal cure a scuba tank - even empty of air.

If you want to paint your tanks, start with the manufacturer. They usually can provide the best information and instructions on how to proceed.

Likewise, stickers must be removed prior to inspection so that the surface of the tank can be seen. Little stickers sometimes come off without being destroyed, big ones never do. Stickers also tend to trap water against the tank, magnifying the corrosion problem enormously.

Then again, you could view those dings and scrapes as memories and well-earned scars and leave the surface alone. Your tanks will probably last longer if you leave well enough alone. There are stickers and nylon mesh (available on eBay and many dive shops) but remember that, come inspection time, if they don't come off easily they will need to come off hard.

Steven
 

Back
Top Bottom