Antagonist
Contributor
I keep hearing about stream lining gear, but with a jacket BCD what other ways are there to streamline my gear besides attaching spg and octopus to the clips. Or is streamlining more or less geared to the BP&W and Tech divers.
Streamlining my gear
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Yes, you can streamline your gear to some extent. First off, look at anything that hangs from your BC, and consider whether you can figure another way to stow it (cameras, marker buoys, lights, etc.). As you stated, make sure your pressure gauge and octo are secured, and consider hose lengths and hose routing on those things. Switching to a bungied backup regulator and a 40" hose routed under the arm will reduce the number of large hose loops you have sticking out into the water stream. (A 40" hose may require an angled adapter at the 2nd stage to sit comfortably in the mouth.) If you are not using an AirII type system, consider a shorter inflator, if yours is one of the ones that hangs way down below your body while you are diving.
None of these things may sound like very much, but as my Fundies instructor told us, if you hold a finger out the car window at 60 mph, you can definitely feel the wind against it, and that's about the resistance of a regulator hose moving through water. Little things add up!
None of these things may sound like very much, but as my Fundies instructor told us, if you hold a finger out the car window at 60 mph, you can definitely feel the wind against it, and that's about the resistance of a regulator hose moving through water. Little things add up!
I dive with a jacket BC as well and i do route all hoses in the best possible ways to avoid any snags. I try to make sure that everything is as close to my body and as secure as possible, but i do always laugh every time i hear people talk about streamlining, because when we are outfitted in full dive gear we are about as streamlined as an elephant in a wind tunnel. I know that is aerodynamics and we are not talking about that, but it still pops in my mind every time
Fortunately most of us don't dive at 60 mph!
Did your "Fundies" (rhymes with undies?) instructor mention how much difference a single finger would make if your entire body was exposed to 60 mph? "Streamlining" by eliminating danglies and potential snags is good advice for avoiding dangling stuff on the reef or snagging stuff on the reef/wreck/whatever, but it's rather silly to believe that moving a hose is going to make diving overall any less strenuous.
Antagonist,
I did my cavern and basic cave training in 1988 in my Scubapro Stabilizing Jacket (SSJ) jacket BCD, and learned some simple streamlining approaches that I modified and continue to use to this day for my rec diving when wearing my SSJ. (I love my SSJ!!)
1. Do not use a console. Rather, attach only your SPG to your HP hose. (Wear your watch/bottom timer, depth gauge, and compass on your wrists.)
2. Route your HP hose under your left arm, through the left armhole of your BCD, around the left side of your torso, and (if the HP hose is very long) under the BCD waist strap, so that the gauge is near your midsection/crotch. There is no need to attach hooks, etc., to this hose. Be careful that the HP hose and gauge do not interfere with your ability to release your weight belt!!
3. For rec diving using my SSJ, I use a Scubapro AIR II (a combination power inflator and back-up regulator). This simplifies/streamlines things by eliminating the LP hose associated with an octopus-type back-up regulator (including a bungied back-up).
4. Remove your knife from your calf if you have one there. Instead, affix your knife to (the inside of) your BCD.
5. Hang your hand-held light and safety reel and DSMB/dive sausage from your BCD waist strap behind you from a suspended "D" or "O" ring.
6. Place your submersible dive tables and storm whistle, etc., in your BCD pocket, on a tether. Make sure the whistle can reach your lips.
7. Finally, although I personally don't do this for rec diving, you might route the LP hose to your AIR II, *under* your left arm. This will keep your AIR II closer to your body. However, if you do this, make sure the AIR II is still able to reach your mouth. And make sure you're able to vent your BCD using the over-pressure relief valve on your right shoulder.
Hope this helps.
Safe Diving,
Ronald
Mossman -- due to the difference in density, water vs. air, the resistance one feels when playing "airplane" with your hand at 60 mph in a car is about the same amound of resistance one gets at swimming at a normal pace (approx. .5-.75 kts). Every bit of extraneous stuff that hangs out sucks energy that YOU provide.
The biggest thing is to not dangle, and by securing your gauges and alternate air source, ands any othe gear such as a probe, camera, or "goody bag" you accomplish that. If you are diving in caverns or wrecks, you need to be more concerned about having all your gear streamlined so as to not hang up on protrusions. Streamlining is for your safety and that of the reef- it is never going to reduce swin drag in any measurable way.
DivemasterDennis
DivemasterDennis
Tec divers have more a premium on streamlining their gear because (a) they are often poking around tight holes, and (b) they have more gear.
I still remember my first tec class, and the instructor wittering on about streamlining, and I am thinking "I am wearing doubles, a sling tank clipped under each arm, lights and reels clipped on everywhere, long hose wrapped around my neck - and this joker is worried about streamlining??"
Rec divers worry less about streamlining, frankly, because it is just not so much of an issue. That doesn't mean it is a bad idea, and I certainly changed the way I dived recreationally to be more streamlined. But don't lose any sleep that you are somehow "doing it wrong".
I still remember my first tec class, and the instructor wittering on about streamlining, and I am thinking "I am wearing doubles, a sling tank clipped under each arm, lights and reels clipped on everywhere, long hose wrapped around my neck - and this joker is worried about streamlining??"
Rec divers worry less about streamlining, frankly, because it is just not so much of an issue. That doesn't mean it is a bad idea, and I certainly changed the way I dived recreationally to be more streamlined. But don't lose any sleep that you are somehow "doing it wrong".
DevonDiver
N/A
If you're looking to improve your air consumption (and who isn't?) then streamlining your gear will contribute to that. It all adds up...and every little helps.
For those that wish to scoff at the notion of water resistance.... then simply compare the difference between swimming with no scuba kit on... and then try swimming (no fins) with the scuba kit on. You'll swiftly learn how water resistance is tangibly linked with the kit you wear....and how you wear it.
Assess your kit from a critical perspective:-
1) Look at your hose configuration. Hoses should be sized and routed to that they are flush to your body. They shouldn't be projecting at all angles and have surplus length that causes them to 'bow' out.
2) Dangly Accessories. This is a common novice diver mistake. Don't carry stuff you don't need. Think about your kit choices carefully and with an integrated, multi-functional approach. Where you do need to carry things - make sure they are stowed in pockets, not hanging off d-rings like a manic Christmas tree. Replace fancy retractors with solid, low-profile bolt-snaps. Put some bellow pockets on your wet/dry suit. Stop strapping a Rambo knife to your calf...
3) AAS. There's simply no excuse for a dangling AAS. Not only is this bad streamlining, it also impacts of the possible success of emergency procedures you may, one day, have to rely on. Stow your AAS securely and close to your torso. There are many effective ways to do this... and many very ineffective ways (those normally involving 'clever' gadget clips).
4) SPG. Again, there's no excuse for a dangling SPG. A few bucks will buy you a marine SS boltsnap with some cave line. Have it clipped onto your torso, where you can access it easily.
For those that wish to scoff at the notion of water resistance.... then simply compare the difference between swimming with no scuba kit on... and then try swimming (no fins) with the scuba kit on. You'll swiftly learn how water resistance is tangibly linked with the kit you wear....and how you wear it.
Assess your kit from a critical perspective:-
1) Look at your hose configuration. Hoses should be sized and routed to that they are flush to your body. They shouldn't be projecting at all angles and have surplus length that causes them to 'bow' out.
2) Dangly Accessories. This is a common novice diver mistake. Don't carry stuff you don't need. Think about your kit choices carefully and with an integrated, multi-functional approach. Where you do need to carry things - make sure they are stowed in pockets, not hanging off d-rings like a manic Christmas tree. Replace fancy retractors with solid, low-profile bolt-snaps. Put some bellow pockets on your wet/dry suit. Stop strapping a Rambo knife to your calf...
3) AAS. There's simply no excuse for a dangling AAS. Not only is this bad streamlining, it also impacts of the possible success of emergency procedures you may, one day, have to rely on. Stow your AAS securely and close to your torso. There are many effective ways to do this... and many very ineffective ways (those normally involving 'clever' gadget clips).
4) SPG. Again, there's no excuse for a dangling SPG. A few bucks will buy you a marine SS boltsnap with some cave line. Have it clipped onto your torso, where you can access it easily.
Here's an experiment for you. Floor your car's accelerator and do a "0 to 60" with your driver's window open and both hands on the wheel. Then do the exact same thing with one finger sticking out the window. Please let me know the difference in your 0-to-60 times. Heck, go ahead and stick your entire arm out the window (make sure you don't get it lopped off) and tell me the difference in your time.
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