Steel tanks: How much haze are you comfortable with?

[Eric Sedletzky]

I just got back a few steel 72's from hydro plus I have other tanks due for VIP's. Since I do my own VIP's I have the call on what level of haze I'm comfortable with in my tanks. The one I just got back from hydro has a slight reddish brown stain/haze on the walls. To some it would be fine, but others would not consider it clean enough to put a sticker on the tank. I'm on the fence about it, I could go either way. It's really not bad enough to need scrub or tumble in my opinion. But on the other hand, the other half of me likes my stuff super clean and spotless.
I'm just trying to determine if I'm being totally OCD with the perfect thing, or should I just run it?
For information, it will only be filled with air and never see pure O2 for pp fills. There is also no pitting in any of my tanks, only surface haze.
What is your opinion?
What is your personal tank haze comfort level to put a tank into service?

 

[Shotmaster]

I have one with a nice thick brown coating, I just had the shop whip it. It looks good now, iron oxide doesn't hurt anything. I haven't seen pitting in any of my cylinders. Just flash rust. The tank I just had whipped I bought used and it came with the rust, I have not seen it get worse over the last three years, and I wouldn't have even whipped it, except my LDS bought a different brand of whip and were itching to try one out while the tank was in for hydro.

 

[tbone1004]

I'd whip it, but that's just me. If you're vipping you should have a whip anyway so it only takes 30 seconds to whip and blow it out

 

[NAM001]

whip it if you have one otherwise just use it.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

Just out of curiosity has anyone ever used a metal prep solution to kill and neutralize rust then thoroughly rinse that tank upside down with a hose stuck up in the tank. It would have to be drained and blown clean right away otherwise more flash rust. Just curious because if done correctly there is no residue left whatsoever and the metal is as clean as it can get.

As far as these tanks I think I'm going to whip them and go with my meticulous leanings.

 

[Bob DBF]

I'm pretty broad minded about it, but it really depends on the feelings of the guy putting the VIP sticker on it. So if I had a whip, I'd use it to avoid a discussion later.


Bob

 

[CptTightPants21]

Whenever there is any doubt, there is no doubt. That's the first thing they teach you.

 

[Scared Silly]

I recently got some cylinders back also with a bit of flash rust. I just gave them a whipping using an abrasive pad.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

I made my own whip.
It's a steel rod with several 1/8" cables run through holes I drilled throught the bottom of the rod. I made the cables just bit longer than a 7 1/4" tank so It will hit the sides well but not be too bent.
For the bottom I also have a home made scrubber that works very well. I use a collar to protect the tank threads otherwise they get beat to sh!t.

I'm thinking that if the tanks are kept really clean it will give any possible moisture in the future less place to grab onto and establish itself, thus reducing the chance of any flash rust or stains from growing into bigger problems.

Thanks guys for the input. I'm going with what I normally do, spotless clean. I guess I temporarily got caught in a moment of weakness and laziness.

Out

 

[MaxBottomtime]

Ask Dr. Bill about his tank. Some rust or other foreign material clogged his first stage while descending head first. He suddenly had no air at I believe eighty feet. I'd clean the tank.