Steel 100 vs. Steel 130

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DiverDAD!

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I an presently diving a steel 130 that is borrowed. I am thinking about buying my own cylinders, and have been considering Steel 100s to buy.

I dive only singles with no desire to dive doubles. I dive in cold water with a 7mm jon wetsuit. In salt water, I use 24# of lead with the 130.

In thinking about it, I figure that if I switch to a 100 from the 130, I'll need to add more weight to the belt to compensate for the smaller tank.

So what would be the advantage to having the smaller tank? I'd rather carry the weight as air capacity than lead, which is is "useless" weight. I'm not too sure that redistributing the weight would even make it more comfortable.

So, now I'm thinking I might as well buy 130s.

Thoughts?
 
Um, you'll almost certainly need the same weight with a 100 or 130. You calculate required weighting based on EMPTY cylinders. The HP100s (Asahi) I have are actually more negative than the HP130s (PST) I own, so I need LESS weight diving the 100s.
 
the tank being smaller doesn't change the amount of weight you need.

the amount of weight you require has to do with your personal buoyancy, your equipment buoyancy, your thermal protection buoyancy, your tank buoyancy, and saltwater vs freshwater.


Worthing is one of the more popular tanks now, so comparing them.

the HP100 is -10.0 LBS full and -2.5 LBS empty
the HP130 is -11.7 LBS full and -2.0 LBS empty

so you can see they are both very similar in buoyancy characteristics in the water. only a pound or two difference.

so you're not going to have to change much in your weighting with the above tanks. But different tanks by different manufactures might require more or less. all depends.
 
It would be hard to go wrong with either tank,I have both and like them equally well. The weight is a non issue,they are very close to the same empty,full the 130 is a few pounds more negative.
 
I think you have about 10lbs too much weight as it is....:)

PS. Just get the 100's, much better size and easier to resell.
 
I dive a BP/W, STA unweighted with both steel HP130's and steel HP100's. I have never needed any weight even with the Alum back plate. Right now I use a 5mm suit, 5mm hood, 6mm boots, and 3mm core warmer. Of course this is all fresh water diving but 20lbs plus sounds crazy. Did you try and hold the stop with the tank at 500psi and drop some weight?
 
I dive a BP/W, STA unweighted with both steel HP130's and steel HP100's. I have never needed any weight even with the Alum back plate. Right now I use a 5mm suit, 5mm hood, 6mm boots, and 3mm core warmer. Of course this is all fresh water diving but 20lbs plus sounds crazy. Did you try and hold the stop with the tank at 500psi and drop some weight?

Crazy? Really?

The FW to SW difference alone is another five pounds (probably). He's in a 7mm Farmer John, so that's 14mm over his core. Depending on how big he is, that could be a substantial amount of neoprene. Probably not using negative fins... No can light... His BC could easily be +3 pounds over a backplate. Cold water diving takes more weight. His numbers don't strike me at all as being out of line for what many need in such waters. That said, always a good idea to actually check...
 
Crazy? Really?

The FW to SW difference alone is another five pounds (probably). He's in a 7mm Farmer John, so that's 14mm over his core. Depending on how big he is, that could be a substantial amount of neoprene. Probably not using negative fins... No can light... His BC could easily be +3 pounds over a backplate. Cold water diving takes more weight. His numbers don't strike me at all as being out of line for what many need in such waters. That said, always a good idea to actually check...

To me it sounds like a lot of weight with the steel 130 even with all the fluff. As you said a good weight check will tell the tale!
 
The steel 130 is only -1 or -2 (depending on manuf.). Like I said, it doesn't strike me as a ton of weight given his likely config. Of course, we agree, the only way to know is a weight check with near empty cylinder.
 

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