Question Stationary Magnahelic Tester needed to service regs?

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Perhaps better to wait until you have an opportunity to determine if DIY service is for you. But if you become serious, you will own a magnahelic (which I know very well from personal experience!!).

Best
Yes. That makes sense. I hope to be able to service myself but of course one never knows. Will go easy on expenses at first.
 
@NYCrecdiver you might want to reconsider:

$31, total BIN shipped from Massapequa, with case, stand, and tubing. Or make an offer

Caveat, some prefer -3"_0_+3, or 0_+3" ranges. I'm never going to tune my regs above 2" - if cracking is past 2 it is getting "fixed", and exhaust is what it is - measuring is academic, so the +- version seems a waste to me. So I prefer the easier reading of the 0_2" range.

If you don't want it I may just get it for the shelf. If you do, you owe me a beer. :wink:
 
@NYCrecdiver you might want to reconsider:

$31, total BIN shipped from Massapequa, with case, stand, and tubing. Or make an offer

Caveat, some prefer -3"_0_+3, or 0_+3" ranges. I'm never going to tune my regs above 2" - if cracking is past 2 it is getting "fixed", and exhaust is what it is - measuring is academic, so the +- version seems a waste to me. So I prefer the easier reading of the 0_2" range.

If you don't want it I may just get it for the shelf. If you do, you owe me a beer. :wink:
Offer sent and accepted! Thanks for the tip @-JD- ! Now gotta see how to hook it up to a mouthpiece. 😊
 
Also, FWIW I was going to take the HOG course and go out to Jim Lapenta(one of the best HOG trainers/techs out there). Covid and life got seriously in the way. Now Jim is out of the game. I have no doubt that Jim's class would be a VERY solid learning experience - he is by all accounts an above and beyond instructor.

I'm guessing that DRIS's online HOG class will cover some theory, how to swap parts on HOGs and specific tuning/troubleshooting for HOG. You (should) get access to the manual - after the class.

I took Rob's (rsingler) reg class this fall and I can't recommend it enough. I got thorough theory, but more importantly, I learned (well, started) to think about reg behavior in light of that theory - implications for service practices and troubleshooting - on regs of many types. and TONS of skills/tricks on reg repair and tuning. If you can wait to get in his class, I think you will learn much more. You won't get a TDI specialty and Access to the official HOG manual, however.
 
Caveat, some prefer -3"_0_+3, or 0_+3" ranges. I'm never going to tune my regs above 2" - if cracking is past 2 it is getting "fixed", and exhaust is what it is - measuring is academic, so the +- version seems a waste to me. So I prefer the easier reading of the 0_2" range.
When I was in the market for a magnehelic, I wavered between seeking a 0-2 or 0-3 gauge. I decided on the latter, reasoning that most types of mechanical gauges read more accurately in the middle of their ranges than at the low end or high end. I have no idea if this is true for vacuum gauges--didn't bother to look it up.
 
Offer sent and accepted! Thanks for the tip @-JD- ! Now gotta see how to hook it up to a mouthpiece. 😊
The blue thing with the big latex tubing and blue hose attached - Cheap, quick, and dirty:
20220913_140357-jpg.743582

mostly Lowes/Home depot
  • plastic 1" barb male to 3/4" pipe male fitting (blue thing)
  • brass barb male (to fit your tubing) to 1/8" (IIRC) pipe male fitting
  • 1"ish OD latex tubing (Amazon) - most expensive part.

drill plastic and thread the brass fitting in
cut and roll latex tubing onto pipe-thread end of the plastic

I wanted a round mouth end. I use it either in my mouth, or with a vacuum pump using the white stopper and hose.
 
When I was in the market for a magnehelic, I wavered between seeking a 0-2 or 0-3 gauge. I decided on the latter, reasoning that most types of mechanical gauges read more accurately in the middle of their ranges than at the low end or high end. I have no idea if this is true for vacuum gauges--didn't bother to look it up.
My reasoning is more ease of reading when trying to watch/interpret IP and Mag pressures. Any extra accuracy would be lost to my inability to read it precisely.

ETA: I'm more likely to be tuning around 1.2" (or maybe <1" on SP D-series) so it is pretty close to half-scale.
 
The blue thing with the big latex tubing and blue hose attached - Cheap, quick, and dirty:
20220913_140357-jpg.743582

mostly Lowes/Home depot
  • plastic 1" barb male to 3/4" pipe male fitting (blue thing)
  • brass barb male (to fit your tubing) to 1/8" (IIRC) pipe male fitting
  • 1"ish OD latex tubing (Amazon) - most expensive part.

drill plastic and thread the brass fitting in
cut and roll latex tubing onto pipe-thread end of the plastic

I wanted a round mouth end. I use it either in my mouth, or with a vacuum pump using the white stopper and hose.
So the blue barbed end goes in the regulator's mouth piece?
It could also work w/o the latex piece right?
 
Barbed end is for your mouth.
Latex goes over the threaded end. You need the latex to provide an airtight coupling between the reg and the test piece.
 
ETA: I'm more likely to be tuning around 1.2" (or maybe <1" on SP D-series) so it is pretty close to half-scale.
I figured 1.2-1.4 was about the range I would ever want to tune in, so I picked the 0-3 scale magnehelic over the 0-2 scale. But you're right, of course, that there's a tradeoff between scale and resolution.
 

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