stabilizing yourself for a shot/ photography ettiquette

[alcina]

For current dives, I discovered that scoping out your subject in advance, and flipping to take the picture between your legs as you go by, often upside down, works quite well while avoiding breaking anything.

How about gliding sideways in the first place and simply turning so your feet are going first when you want a shot? I've found this will often give me a few added seconds needed to get the shot I want and I don't get dizzy It's also easier to stop or slow down and hold position when you can kick a bit...

 

[The Kraken]

Hey, guys, I know very little, if anything about the problems associated with GOOD underwater photography, but, what is the possibility of a monopod with a very small foot print/point for stabilization?

My family loves to sit down when I get my photos back and try to guess what it is that I took a picture of. Sometimes they're right!!!

the K

 

[Iruka]

Proper buoyancy, hovering & finning is best of course, but I have no problem with putting a finger on dead coral or rock, though it's rarely necessary. As someone mentioned earlier, try to settle SOFTLY onto sand....you might try to keep your photo subject "upstream" so any bit of sand kicked up doesn't get in the way. Also, a common mistake I see among new divers especially, is KICKING their way off the sand....making it look like there's a tornado behind them! Just inhale a little extra enough to "levitate" a few feet off the bottom before starting to kick.

As far as photos, I'll generally show my photographers the interesting things FIRST...quite often, when all the other divers crowd around, whatever was there in the first place will vanish, and the photographer doesn't get a shot. A single, careful diver taking a photo seems to be less likely to scare the thing away and/or stir up the bottom. With turtles as well, I like to "hold" my other divers away and let the photographer get in & "take his shots"....rather than scaring it away with a bunch of divers right away. They'll still get to see it...but I think the 'close up' is more valuable to the photographer than the other divers.

 

[CLA]

Thanks for the tips Alcina, Iruka. It's such a relief to know that settling on the sand (when done carefully) is also acceptable. Creatures hiding in sandy areas are so interesting but it's sometimes difficult to shoot frontal or profile pics while hovering if you can't get low enough to see the viewfinder. I don't have a strobe or any special lens so I need to get very close to avoid backscatter. Sometimes it's easier to approach when I get down to thier level or as low as possible because they seem to notice me more if I'm hovering above them. Getting settled also helps while I'm waiting for them to come out or get used to my presence.

As far as photos, I'll generally show my photographers the interesting things FIRST...quite often, when all the other divers crowd around, whatever was there in the first place will vanish, and the photographer doesn't get a shot.

Yup, this happens to me quite often. Maybe when I'm better at this it will be ok to go in first and take a quick shot.

 

[Dee]

Hey, guys, I know very little, if anything about the problems associated with GOOD underwater photography, but, what is the possibility of a monopod with a very small foot print/point for stabilization?

My family loves to sit down when I get my photos back and try to guess what it is that I took a picture of. Sometimes they're right!!!

the K

If you don't mind carrying it along a monopod can be a good thing under the right circumstances. As with anything, make sure that 'very small footprint' isn't damaging anything.

 

[alcina]

My basic theory is that photographers go LAST. This way they don't have to be crowded or rushed and can lag behind the group and take some time with their subject. Will they miss some things that the guide might point out, probably. Is it going to be a tremendous issue, probably not. They are either going to see other things or they aren't going to have to deal with a line of divers either in their frame or waiting impatiently while the photographer sets up the shot.

Also, just because one has a camera doesn't give on special priviledges - I would hate for the non-camera toters to feel like second class citizens because they choose to dive with nothing!

First or last or in the middle - any way will work as long as all of the divers are respectful. This has not been my experience and you'll find me waaaaaayyyyy behind in the distance...

 

[Dee]

My basic theory is that photographers go LAST. This way they don't have to be crowded or rushed and can lag behind the group and take some time with their subject. Will they miss some things that the guide might point out, probably. Is it going to be a tremendous issue, probably not. They are either going to see other things or they aren't going to have to deal with a line of divers either in their frame or waiting impatiently while the photographer sets up the shot.

Also, just because one has a camera doesn't give on special priviledges - I would hate for the non-camera toters to feel like second class citizens because they choose to dive with nothing!

First or last or in the middle - any way will work as long as all of the divers are respectful. This has not been my experience and you'll find me waaaaaayyyyy behind in the distance...

Agree! And when you happen to have anyone behind you waiting their turn to see something, photogs or non, be considerate and only take a couple of shots. You can always get back in 'line' after everyone is finished. Depending on the subject, sometimes that couple of shots is all you'll get because it has vamoosed oris now in hiding. But my preferred spot is behind the herd.

 

[Iruka]

My basic theory is that photographers go LAST. This way they don't have to be crowded or rushed and can lag behind the group and take some time with their subject...

Your reasoning makes sense...I guess the photographers I've led have mostly been of the "surgical strike" variety....get in, take the shot, and move on....so I've never really noticed them taking so long that it holds up the other divers much. The really proficient, serious photographers I know around here, at least, tend to dive by themselves (without guides) or keep far away while they're looking for stuff on their own. I'm fine with that.....it means a lot less swimming on the dive, ha ha.

I think most of the people I've guided are using simple systems and don't try to compose the photos with different exposure settings, shutter speed, whatever...just shoot away & hope to have something to show their friends who were stuck in the office while they were away on vacation

 

[Ishie]

Thanks everyone, for all the useful suggestions. The great thing about learning photography is that it forces you to be a better and more thoughtful diver (as long as you have your priorities right).

I wish someone could post a clip of the reverse finning because it seems like a very useful technique. Ishie, I can't imagine how you do your acrobatic photography but it seems to work very well. Your Dumaguete pics were so inspiring!

Thank you!!

The acrobatics were my dive buddies idea because I was complaining that during a particularly quick current dive (no chance of even trying to fin against it to even stay in place), I couldn't get a shot. It's really good if you're heading towards a coral head that has something you want to shoot on the top or back of it. By being upside down as you're going by it, you get extra time for that (O&(*)*&( shutter lag to wait and still get the shot. It's also good for getting head shots of fish behind you, since the ones in front of you are in the same path as you are so showing you their south ends.

 

[drbill]

Obviously this is a key to getting sharp stills as well as visually appealing video footage. One thing that really bothers me about a lot of video shot is that the subjects bounce all over the frame. I want to frame mine in an aesthetically appealing way whenever possible. I just had a group of new dive friends watch some of my video and they were quite surprised at how stable the shots were. It makes a lot of difference in the final product, especially if you are marketing the video rather than using it for purely personal viewing or to show close friends.

The answer, as suggested in several of the preceeding posts, depends on the habitat.

If I am in a sensitive area such as a coral reef, I head into the current with my head down and use my fins for stabilizing. I do not touch the reef.

If I am on a sandy bottom, I slowly plant myself spread eagle on the sand and purge my BCD. I stabilize using a five point stance (elbows, belly, legs).

If I'm on a rocky reef that is fairly resistant to contact, I will plant on the reef itself (watching to ensure there are no highly sensitive critters like gorgonians). If I'm on a vertical wall, I will stabilize using my hands and feet like a mountain climber. Of course this only works if there is little current and you are very close to neutral buoyancy.

As for moving critters, I will move some (those that tolerate being handled) if I need to get a better shot and then I'll replace them in the same spot. I view the educational value of the acquired footage to be of value. For sensitive species I will either find the best angle possible or wait until I find another specimen.