Soaking the Regulator

[matt_unique]

Yes I soaked it in Fresh Water so do you think I need to send it in for a service? I soaked it overnight!!! :11:

I learned this the hard way when I first began diving - NEVER NEVER put a regulator near water unless it is connected to and pressurized from an air source. Second, when water gets into your first stage you need to get it serviced.

--Matt

 

[Ann Marie]

You are looking at a peice of life support equipment......get it serviced and chalk it up to a lesson learned.

 

[scubafanatic]

.......what brand/model of regulator was it? I ask because there are certain regulators you should NEVER soak, even with the dust cap on, unless you have the regulator connected to a scuba tank and pressurized......examples of such 'special' regulators are the Atomic Aquatics and Sherwood lines of regulators.

Karl

 

[liberato]

You can soak them if you keep the soak water from entering from the second stage to the first (loop the hose up). And you would want to at least pressurize and purge after the soak with that kind of unloaded second stage. How else could you get a good rinse without soaking them?

 

[Jazz]

It was a S600 with a MK25

 

[DA Aquamaster]

If it were mk MK25 S600 I'd would have it serviced. It is a flow through piston design but incorporates a bushing system that provides places for water to hide. You may or may not be able to dry it our by running air through it.

There is also a chance that water could have entered the second stage and that water may have found it's way into the balance chamber where it could cause problems. So the second stage should be dissasembled as well.

Why be cheap and risk an expensive reg by not having it at least inspected?

 

[rescuediver009]

there are certain regulators you should NEVER soak, even with the dust cap on, unless you have the regulator connected to a scuba tank and pressurized......examples of such 'special' regulators are the Atomic Aquatics and Sherwood lines of regulators.

Karl

What makes you sya that you shouldn't soak the sherwood event with the dusk cap on. IT is recommended inthe users manual by the company and dive shops......

 

[John C. Ratliff]

I have commented on this at length at the other thread mentioned above.

Concerning the "dust cap," if it is a plastic cap, put a tank O-ring in it and it will seal well (this is also a good place to "hide" a spare O-ring for the tank). With it sealed, soaking the regulator is no problem. The one thing you don't want to do is to push down on the purge valve, or have the purge in an "open" condition. Some regulators (older Sherwood, for instance) will allow the purge to be put down to keep the seat from taking a "set." But this leaves the valve open, and would allow water to enter into the hose, and possibly into the first stage.

Water is a fluid, and there is very little in the first stage to corrode with fresh water. Contrary to one post above, there should be little exposed, uncoated brass in the first stage. Most everything is chrome-plated, neoprene or a plastic that is pretty well impervious to fresh water. Concerning the SPG, the Bourden tube is probably uncoated brass. But corrosion there is not likely to get to the regulator itself; it might over time affect the SPG and the guage may fail.

Computerized equipment and water do not mix, however. So if there is a potential for water to get into the computerized SPG, or a decompression meter, than that would be serious and require an overhaul.

SeaRat

 

[scubafanatic]

...my understanding is Sherwoods have a 1st stage dry bleed system, which you can see in action by watching the tiny stream of bubbles trickling out of the 1st stage while it's is in use under pressure, so if the regulator is underwater without positive air pressure, water will back flush into the 1st stage. ( I've never owned a Sherwood reg, but know divers who do.)

The Atomics regs don't have 'issues' with the 1st stage, they do have 'issues' with their 2nd stages...they have a seat-saver 2nd stage that relaxes under zero internal air pressure, allowing water to back flush into the regulator.......Poseidon Jets will do a similiar thing.....the balloon valve (condom) inside deflates under zero internal pressure allowing water to back flush into the 1st stage.

Karl

 

[rescuediver009]

...my understanding is Sherwoods have a 1st stage dry bleed system, which you can see in action by watching the tiny stream of bubbles trickling out of the 1st stage while it's is in use under pressure, so if the regulator is underwater without positive air pressure, water will back flush into the 1st stage. ( I've never owned a Sherwood reg, but know divers who do.)

The Atomics regs don't have 'issues' with the 1st stage, they do have 'issues' with their 2nd stages...they have a seat-saver 2nd stage that relaxes under zero internal air pressure, allowing water to back flush into the regulator.......Poseidon Jets will do a similiar thing.....the balloon valve (condom) inside deflates under zero internal pressure allowing water to back flush into the 1st stage.

Karl

You are correct about the Atomics. I never disputed that. But I did dive a Sherwood reg and have serviced a bundl of 'em. If you ever get a chance look closely. The one way bleeder is a piece of rubber that does just that. It bleeds under pressure and more importantly only in one direction. The only concern I have found over the years with a sherwood bleeder is that if you dive salt, and do not rinse it properly, the salt will corrode around the bleeder creating an improper seal. Kind of like sand under a sunction cup. except they are salt crystals. The next time the reg is used, it will not seal and then it will allow water in as well as air out. then the water inside crystaizes and either seizes and/or corrodes the internals of a the reg beyond belief.