Single tanks, what do you recommend?

[dori fish]

Depends on what you want to do with them. I see on your profile you have 0-24 logged dives. Why do you want such a big tank? Are you concerned with your air consumption? I can tell you, as an instructor, it get's better after about 30 dives.

As far as High pressure tanks go, it really doesn't matter weather it's HP or LP. 120 cf is 120 cf no matter how small a space you pack it into. Which leads to another point. 120's are long. If you're short, this may be a problem for you. Also, if you're diving a 120 and your buddy has an aluminum 80, what are you going to do with all the extra air when he has to come up?

Steel tanks are more negatively buoyant than aluminum tanks. Many divers, including me, prefer this. As far as doubles go, there are training issues which you need to address. You shouldn't just throw on a set of doubles and go diving. There are equipment configuration issues and redundant systems to consider. Most agencies won't train you to TEC dive or use doubles before you have 100 dives, 10 nitrox dives below 100ft. and a rescue diver certification.

Bottom line, if you want a steel tank, get an 80 cf. for now. Later, you can always sell it when you upgrade.

Hope this helps.

i am almost 6ft tall about 5'11, and yes i do consume my air somewhat rapidly

 

[spectrum]

i am almost 6ft tall about 5'11, and yes i do consume my air somewhat rapidly

With 0-24 dives you can expect to go though air rather fast. With practice and attention to detail your bottom time can easily increase by 50% before the leaves fall. There is no point in lugging a behemoth of a cylinder unless your diving with others that will match your eventual range. My HP 80s are ample for 90% of my needs.

As for what to do about single tanks...
1. Use it often so it's not lonely
2. Place an add on CraigsList for a mate
3. Have it examined before use so you know it's safe.

Sorry, the title caught my eye and I couldn't resist.

I do agree with TS&M that you will almost certainly have along term need for singles cylinders so don't over think this. When (if) you do get doubles you will want a matched set. They are not as standardized as you might think.

Pete

 

[rstofer]

Don't worry about doubles and all that future stuff. As indicated above, tanks tend to accumulate. We have 14 tanks for 4 divers and that's not a lot. Basically enough for 2 dives each plus some other tanks for the pool or left over from warm water.

I know one fellow (big time tech diver) who has 40 tanks. Doubles of this, doubles of that, singles, stage bottles, deco bottles, argon bottles. They just tend to show up over time.

Richard

 

[DA Aquamaster]

For technical diving I have 2 sets of HP100s (offshore), 2 sets of LP 95's (caves), 4 steel 45 deco bottles, 3 AL 80's and an AL 72 (set up as stage bottles) and a 13 cu ft pony for a DS inflation bottle on trimix dives. 21 tanks in all.

Marci shares my deco bottles and uses one set of my HP 100's offshore in NC but has two sets of double 95's of her own, so the total rises to 25 tanks, but it is only 12.5 per diver on average.

 

[TSandM]

We have 14 tanks for 4 divers and that's not a lot.

We have 19 tanks for two divers. And it isn't enough.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

I feel better. 25 is actually about right for the diving we do. I seldom buy a new tank, so the acquistion costs are lower than they appear, but the annual cost of keeping them is service can be a killer. Once you have that many tanks, a PST or TDI Visual Inspection certification makes sense.

 

[Steve_Dives]

I've never been diving with you, but some air consumption tips from my experience might be helpful.

One is to be properly weighted. If you have too much lead, you will work your whole dive to stay up or have to put a lot of air in your BC (and basically drag a giant balloon through the water). Too little and you will have to constantly swim down, also burning air. At the end of you next dive, surface and dump all the air from your BC. If you sink like a stone you have too much lead, but you should be able get under without a lot of effort.

Another is to be still in the water. Try to make a whole dive with your arms crossed. It's OK to signal your buddy, check gauges, adjust buoyancy and the like, but try keeping your arms crossed. If you find it difficult, something is off, probably your weighting.

Your kick might be another. But if you are really burning air it seems like it would be one or both of the above.

 

[WVMike]

For technical diving I have 2 sets of HP100s (offshore), 2 sets of LP 95's (caves),

Why the difference for offshore vs cave?

I assume you are overfilling the LP95s?

If so how high do you overfill?

 

[rstofer]

I feel better. 25 is actually about right for the diving we do. I seldom buy a new tank, so the acquistion costs are lower than they appear, but the annual cost of keeping them is service can be a killer. Once you have that many tanks, a PST or TDI Visual Inspection certification makes sense.

I took the PSI Visual Inspection certification course a couple of weeks ago. I am planning to take courses for O2 cleaning and valve overhaul.

I don't know that I will actually VIP my own tanks but at least I'll know what to look for before I have someone else do them.

It was an interesting course - well worth the time and money.

Richard

 

[divinginn]

I always pull my valves and check out the inside before taking them in for a vis or Hydro. I am up two 5 tanks,one set od steel 72s doubled,one 130 worthington,one 100 worthington and one 77lp worthington. I cannot imagine doubling up the 130s,I thing I would blow my back out just trying to throw them on my back,it starts protesting just hoisting up the 72s,my back is kind of whimpy though. So far I think the hp 100 is the perfect single tank. The 77 and 72s are great with a 3000 fill for most of the dives I do,but short on air on deeper dives without a overfill.