Sherwood dry bleed contaminated piston

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

''Magic Water''...first word starts with an ''M''...second word starts with an ''A''...
It took me a minute.
 
Muratic Acid?

Hey Rusty...

That's right...as I indicated on my first post relating to this subject...not something I advocate...only reporting for cleaning a sintered filter that may no longer be supported by the manufacturer...two three seconds...returns them to ''like new condition''...with all contamination plugging the filter gone...when the ''fizzing'' stops...they're clean...

You would think that water should dissolve salt...only before it has crystalized...and turned the metal contact area green...after which water will no longer work...

One of the first tell-tale signs that the reg set has been used in salt water...is the ''green'' on the sintered filter in the first stage...and around the metal hose ends...

I've always felt it is very important when packing up on the dive boat to get back to the hotel room and wash everything while it's all still wet and salt residue has not had a chance to dry and crystalize...

The hotel we stay at in NC has large plastic garbage cans for that purpose and all the fresh water you can use...they're located along the docks on the Atlantic Beach Causeway...makes cleaning...very handy...very easy....and quick...all my gear has stayed clean over the years...never showing any sign of ever being in salt water...

Thorough cleaning post dive is something you either don't do...or do religiously...I have always chosen the latter...it's become all that more important to me in recent years with the rebreather...

Just me...

Best...

Warren...
 
I did a second piston, of another regulator I shelved many years ago, and again, I tried everything here that have tried, and nothing. I used the 2,500# pressure cleaner, but I sprayed it a minute each side, and that was too much. I get now, like 100cc/minute, and the check valve has a high pitch sound, but it works. I tried soaking in muriatic acid, for one hour, and nothing, also I did it for 24 hrs with Q tips stuck inside the filter, so I would damage the thin chrome of the piston and nothing happened. Also tried 24 hrs in ultrasonic cleaner, with water, via her, degreaser and nothing. So far pressure cleaner with the stream attachment worked, but do it in 30 seconds each side and test it.
 
I did a second piston, of another regulator I shelved many years ago, and again, I tried everything here that have tried, and nothing. I used the 2,500# pressure cleaner, but I sprayed it a minute each side, and that was too much. I get now, like 100cc/minute, and the check valve has a high pitch sound, but it works. I tried soaking in muriatic acid, for one hour, and nothing, also I did it for 24 hrs with Q tips stuck inside the filter, so I would damage the thin chrome of the piston and nothing happened. Also tried 24 hrs in ultrasonic cleaner, with water, via her, degreaser and nothing. So far pressure cleaner with the stream attachment worked, but do it in 30 seconds each side and test it.
I am confused. Are you describing 100cc/minute as "did not work"?
Without checking every possible variation, in general the piston mounted filter bleed should be 13-17 cc/min, and the body mounted filter should be 13-30 cc/min. 100cc/min is far too much by either standard, and you have either compromised the filter or have a leak somewhere else in the system.

Sherwood has very little guidance on cleaning the piston mounted version once it has become clogged, and replacement (if available) is the best/only option they have.

The body mounted filter was originally a sintered filter, but was replaced by a laser drilled version. If anyone is trying to deal with cleaning an old body/sintered version, just upgrade to the "new" laser drilled part and you will then have a new white filter included in every overhaul service kit - nothing to blast clean.
 
If anyone is trying to deal with cleaning an old body/sintered version, just upgrade to the "new" laser drilled part and you will then have a new white filter included in every overhaul service kit - nothing to blast clean.

You can DO that for older regs? I figured it was a whole new part and would not fit any old reg.
 
You can DO that for older regs? I figured it was a whole new part and would not fit any old reg.
Again, that is if body mounted version. the first version the filter was in the piston base.
 
Ah. I thought maybe the newer piston had a laser hole in it. Sounds like the old piston+sintered filter are not upgrade-able.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom