Servicing gear

[redacted]

The first four first stages I rebuilt after class all had stuck spring retaining caps. We didn't go over how to free them in class. I'm not advocating anyone else do this, but I gently heated that part using warm water until I could free it.

Harlow does address the procedures for freeing stuck parts (e.g. heat and cold to use expansion and contraction to loosen connections). I don't believe you will find that in Regulator Savvy.

 

[ams511]

The first four first stages I rebuilt after class all had stuck spring retaining caps. We didn't go over how to free them in class. I'm not advocating anyone else do this, but I gently heated that part using warm water until I could free it.

You could also use a hair dryer to heat the part. I resorted to putting the parts in the freezer (in 2 bags) for a while which worked. If it didn't the hot water would be next.

---------- Post added April 7th, 2013 at 01:17 PM ----------

Ok, so what about the instance if you purchase a regulator from , say HOG, and you don't dealer near you. Has anyone come across this? What was the experience like?

I purchased a Scubapro regulator while in Florida and moved to Central Pennsylvania. The local dive was not a SP dealer and I wasn't using the regulator so I did not have it serviced. So I lost the "free" parts for life.

 

[redacted]

When using heat and cold to loosen stuck parts, I use heat on the "female" part and cold on the "male" part along with extended periods of soaking. That usually means everything in hot water (tap hot) for 10 minutes or so and then Ice applied to the male part. That works well with things like yoke and din retainers and HP seat retainers. With the stuck ambient chamber, I'd probably freeze the whole 1st stage for a couple hours and then dip the ambient chamber end into hot water. Resorting to force is a make it or break it thing. If it does not work with a couple treatments, let it soak for another day and try again. I have spent a week on a really stuck part. The only time it has ever failed is when I got impatient.

If you have the ability, a trip or two through the ultrasonic cleaner will accelerate the process. I try not to expose metal parts to more than 10 minutes in the US cleaner - 5 minutes each trip. And I limit vinegar/water baths to about 10 minutes each.

 

[ams511]

Thanks for the tip awap. For some reason I am having troubles removing the ambient chambers on MK-20s. I had no problems removing them on older and in worse shape MK5s. I am thinking the Scubapro tool from Scubatools does not grip it as well as it does a MK5. However, the freezing method worked, next time I will try the method you suggest.

The only thing that I screwed up on is a MK-10/BA. The hose will not come off the turret of the MK10 and I used a bit too much force and stripped the nut on the hose. It really irks me because the MK10 looks new so it seems Scubapro must have really torqued that hose on there. I have no idea why.

 

[ktomlinson]

Yeah, thank you for the tip on freezing! I thought of heat, but didn't think of cold. Guess which book I am using? Wolfingers. I may pick up the other book now!

 

[ams511]

Wolfinger's book also promotes all these special tools. I rebuilt a MK5, and when it came to removing the o-ring in the body I just stuck it with a bent shirt pin (really small point and grips well). Then to insert a new one, I lubed up a new o-ring and pulled it through with a brass pick and then used the piston bullet to push it in the grove. I did not realize I already purchased the Scubatool to do it, as it wasn't necessary.

 

[Couv]

It's a 20 second job with my: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/do-yourself-diy/422293-diy-balanced-piston-stem-o-ring-tool.html

(You should use a dowel instead-but you get the point.)

 

[redacted]

Wolfinger's book also promotes all these special tools. I rebuilt a MK5, and when it came to removing the o-ring in the body I just stuck it with a bent shirt pin (really small point and grips well). Then to insert a new one, I lubed up a new o-ring and pulled it through with a brass pick and then used the piston bullet to push it in the grove. I did not realize I already purchased the Scubatool to do it, as it wasn't necessary.

That will work fine as long as you come in from the ambient chamber side to avoid scratching the critical sealing surface.

---------- Post added April 8th, 2013 at 07:10 PM ----------

It's a 20 second job with my: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/do-yourself-diy/422293-diy-balanced-piston-stem-o-ring-tool.html

Sometimes it is more fun if you are not in a hurry.

 

[cerich]

Funny, when I first read about using heat and cold to crack open a reg my first thought was they are being put together WAY to tight and that in 20 years in the business I have NEVER had to use heat and cold...today asked jack my Ops Manager, his same thoughts....

 

[redacted]

Funny, when I first read about using heat and cold to crack open a reg my first thought was they are being put together WAY to tight and that in 20 years in the business I have NEVER had to use heat and cold...today asked jack my Ops Manager, his same thoughts....

It is usually not that a connection was overtorqued. It is the result of salt deposits and corrosion that can occur in threaded fittings that can make a properly torqued connection difficult to unscrew. Most regulators have some threaded connections that are not protected by o-rings that let SW penetrate the threads, aided by the pressures of depth. This water does not easily rinse off.

I find the problem most often with some used regulators that I frequently acquire. Once I have restored them initially, I don't see the problem again but I am a proponent of extended soaking which does a fairly good job of diluting/eliminating the salt. I usually go for 8 to 12 hours soaks (or a good FW dive).