Servicing gear

[ams511]

As far as manufacturers that openly sell parts, HOG, Dive Rite, and Zeagle are the ones I know of. Zeagle was recently purchased by another company so I am unsure of their policy in the future. Apeks, Aqualung, and Sherwood do not sell direct to the public BUT I have seen their kits selling online from domestic shops. For Scubapro you need to look on eBay or internationally for the recent models. For the older MK5 and MK10 you can get aftermarket seats or parts kits.

It is more critical to have parts kits for the first stage than for the second. There are only a few variations in second stage seats so there are aftermarket seats available. The O-rings are largely generic and can be sourced.

For used first stages I would recommend Scubapro MK2, MK5, MK10, Any Apeks first (they all take the same kit), I do not know much about Aqualung/US Divers parts availability but I believe Vintage Double Hose has some kits for them.

For used second stages I would recommend, Scubapro G200, G200B, G250, Balanced Adjustable, and the 109. The R190, 290, 390, 108 are fine also but I do not like them as much as the others. Again any Apeks would work.

 

[captainhook426]

So I'm looking around and trying to find a regulator that will grow with me as well. I can deal with having to pay someone to service my gear at this point. I would like a regulator set up that will grow with me, I plan on getting into technical diving as well as being able to dive deep and below the thermocline in my local area. Most technical set ups us a DIN connection. Is the DIN to Yoke converters safe to use when traveling and such? or do I need to plan different regulator sets?

SOOOO much information running around..

 

[eelnoraa]

DIN to Yoke convertor is not with its issue. For 1, it push the first stage another 1" toward you head. It may or may not matter to you depending on your physique. But if it does, it is literally pain in your neck. And in terms of failure point, Din 1st stage with yoke convertor is definitely worse than Yoke first stage.

Persoanlly, I would recommend Yoke for single tank setup. When you actually move to tech diving, the amount of money you will have or already have to spend on diving will make buying another regulator seem insignificant. Since you will/should not use single tank on overhead or deco envionment, going with Yoke gives your convinience, in a sense that you can be sure you will get rental tank in vacation spots.

 

[ams511]

Hook, A din to yoke converter is safe. However, as was pointed out it does move the first stage closer to your body which may be uncomfortable if it comes in contact with your head or neck. Most regulators can be converted from yoke to din. The parts are $40-80 depending on the brand, so you do not need to purchase a new regulator if you want din.

Unless you are ice diving, most regulators should be able to handle a thermocline.

 

[JohnN]

Hook, A din to yoke converter is safe. However, as was pointed out it does move the first stage closer to your body which may be uncomfortable if it comes in contact with your head or neck. Most regulators can be converted from yoke to din. The parts are $40-80 depending on the brand, so you do not need to purchase a new regulator if you want din.

Unless you are ice diving, most regulators should be able to handle a thermocline.

So turn your tank 180 degrees and swap the hoses side-to-side. Problem solved. . .

 

[ams511]

So turn your tank 180 degrees and swap the hoses side-to-side. Problem solved. . .

That does not solve the problem as the yoke nut will now protrude towards your head. Also by moving the hoses farther away a bungied necklace back-up may not reach properly anymore even a regular length octo hose may no longer be optimal for air sharing. the regulator is now more exposed and you risk turning the valve the wrong way. Also I doubt a dive master on the boat would let someone off with a regulator and tank on the BC backwards. Not to mention you are going to get some strange looks from the other divers.

The solution is find an operator with din tanks or convert the reg to yoke prior to the trip. If you are paying thousands for a vacation why be cheap by saving less than $100 on the equipment?

 

[captainhook426]

I'm assuming it's not really all that safe to move hoses from one first stage to another. I also remember reading some where that yoke 1st stages are really only good for 3000psi tanks? what about a HP 3442psi tank? I have a few HP Steels available to my access that the local club doesn't use all the time.

 

[eelnoraa]

So turn your tank 180 degrees and swap the hoses side-to-side. Problem solved. . .

But why??? Isn't it easier just use a yoke reg.

---------- Post added April 11th, 2013 at 10:36 PM ----------

I'm assuming it's not really all that safe to move hoses from one first stage to another. I also remember reading some where that yoke 1st stages are really only good for 3000psi tanks? what about a HP 3442psi tank? I have a few HP Steels available to my access that the local club doesn't use all the time.

Taking off and putting on hoses is OK. It is done on every regulator service. Just do it carefully, don't cross thread the hose. Yoke on 3500psi tank is also fine.

 

[ams511]

I'm assuming it's not really all that safe to move hoses from one first stage to another. I also remember reading some where that yoke 1st stages are really only good for 3000psi tanks? what about a HP 3442psi tank? I have a few HP Steels available to my access that the local club doesn't use all the time.

Usually high-pressure tanks have either DIN fittings or a convertible valve. If the valve is convertible you can use a regulator with a yoke. You could swap hoses if you want but it would be quicker and easier just to swap out the fitting when you want a yoke. If you are looking to get into DIY then this could be your first step.

 

[captainhook426]

I'm really indifferent on first stages, as long as it's cold water ready and can be used with the steel tanks I will borrow and buy later.