Scubapro-Uwatec and price gouging on battery replacements

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Computers are 20-30 years old and people are still bitching about changing batteries soaked in mineral oil. Irony is that SP still honors battery for life warrantees from original purchasers. Cheaper options avail if you must have yr battery changed.
 
No need to replace the rubber membrane. It can be reused.

Hi Joe...

I don't know how you'd pry up the sealed edges without damaging it...I suppose you could trim it off with an Xacto knife...and re-seal it with Aqua Seal...I wouldn't...it will void your warranty...and if your ''re-seal'' is flawed and the computer floods...especially with salt water...your computer is toast...

Send it back to SP...pay the service fee...protect your investment...

W.M...
 
Hi Joe...

I don't know how you'd pry up the sealed edges without damaging it...I suppose you could trim it off with an Xacto knife...and re-seal it with Aqua Seal...I wouldn't...it will void your warranty...and if your ''re-seal'' is flawed and the computer floods...especially with salt water...your computer is toast...

Send it back to SP...pay the service fee...protect your investment...

W.M...
Why comment when you have no knowledge of it. Many of us replace these batteries ourselves and the seal is easily removed. Do you use an Xacto knife to remove lids from your Tupperware.
 
Hi Joe...

I don't know how you'd pry up the sealed edges without damaging it...I suppose you could trim it off with an Xacto knife...and re-seal it with Aqua Seal...I wouldn't...it will void your warranty...and if your ''re-seal'' is flawed and the computer floods...especially with salt water...your computer is toast...

Send it back to SP...pay the service fee...protect your investment...

W.M...
It is very easy to pry up the membrane using a soft plastic tool.

It is a mechanical press fit, no need for glue to reseal, just press it in place.

Checking for a proper seal is easy via visual inspection. You can also simply leave the unassembled computer sitting for a few days and then examine the edges of the membrane.

My computers are long out of warranty so no worries there.

Protect my investment? I generally don't pay more than $50 for a computer. I got one last week for $0.99.
 
It is very easy to pry up the membrane using a soft plastic tool.

It is a mechanical press fit, no need for glue to reseal, just press it in place.

Checking for a proper seal is easy via visual inspection. You can also simply leave the unassembled computer sitting for a few days and then examine the edges of the membrane.

My computers are long out of warranty so no worries there.

Protect my investment? I generally don't pay more than $50 for a computer. I got one last week for $0.99.

Hi Joe...

I've been discussing this topic at great length with GFR88 on PM notes...

I'm a certified SP service tec...I wouldn't perform this re/re...and I wouldn't recommend any other non authorized person perform this service...

The battery is soldered in...the cavity behind the membrane is partially filled with oil...as well as re-filling the cavity with a specific quantity of special purpose oil...air has to be evacuated out during the membrane re-sealing process...because the membrane sealing surface is not round...proper membrane re positioning is critical to ensure there is no leak...

I like critical life support components serviced by qualified/trained technicians...

Good luck with your $0.99 computers...

Bell Helmets used to have a great ''saying''...if you have a ten dollar head...buy a ten dollar helmet...

No offence intended...

W.M...
 
Hi Joe...

I've been discussing this topic at great length with GFR88 on PM notes...

I'm a certified SP service tec...I wouldn't perform this re/re...and I wouldn't recommend any other non authorized person perform this service...

The battery is soldered in...the cavity behind the membrane is partially filled with oil...as well as re-filling the cavity with a specific quantity of special purpose oil...air has to be evacuated out during the membrane re-sealing process...because the membrane sealing surface is not round...proper membrane re positioning is critical to ensure there is no leak...

I like critical life support components serviced by qualified/trained technicians...

Good luck with your $0.99 computers...

Bell Helmets used to have a great ''saying''...if you have a ten dollar head...buy a ten dollar helmet...

No offence intended...

W.M...
I fully agree that you should not attempt this unless you know what you are doing.

BUT: This service does not require a rocket surgeon or a brain scientist. There are lots of people who are fully capable. Anyone who has overhauled a disk brake caliper and soldered a blinky light project should do fine. There is no requirement for any specialized tools or techniques (well I do use an old hardhat as a bucket for changing the oil as my wife would not let me use one of our nice mixing bowls from the kitchen.)

I went to a local industrial oil supplier that specialized in oils used in high power electric transformers. It was an owner operator run shop and he gave me the time of day because we was curious. I brought both an assembled and disassembled computer to show him. His expert advice was to obtain some oil that would not compress and was translucent enough to see a few millimeters through. He then laughed and said that covers every type of oil he sold. $10 later I was on my way with a small jug of some kind of mystery oil.
 
FWIW: Regular ol' mineral oil from the grocery store is cheap, non-compressible, won't conduct electricity (in the voltage range in question) and relatively frequently used for pressure potting applications to far more extreme depths than a typical dive computer is ever going to see.

I have to say, calling a dive computer "critical life support equipment" is a bit of a stretch, and assuming the skills involved can only be performed by "trained" technicians is equally ludicrous. I've never been trained to change the oil in my car. Figured it out on my own. Wasn't that hard, if you have a basic conceptual understanding of internal combustion engines. Likewise, I was never trained to rebuild my engine, or change my brakes for that matter. Neither of those gave me any trouble either. I'd argue automobile brakes are a far more critical piece of kit than a dive computer is for most divers. My brakes go out, there's extremely high potential for a very exciting situation to result. My dive computer dies, I call the dive and slowly surface, making a safety stop. If I'm in a situation the computer is actually critical (i.e. deco diving, overhead environments, etc) then I'm absolutely going to be traveling with redundancy.

I've had three shops replace batteries on my computer for me (admittedly never the manufacturer) and the unanimous impression I received from all three of those "qualified and trained" services is that I absolutely, unequivocally believe I'm more capable of doing a quality job myself.

To continue with the automobile analogy; having a driver's license doesn't make you a good driver. Being a "trained technician" means nothing to me. It means somebody sat through a class that they paid for. It doesn't mean in any way that they have any aptitude for the work they're now "trained" to do.

Certainly not saying all trained techs are no good, or that there's no value in training. Not at all. But it's absolutely ignorant to suggest being "trained," in and of itself, means absolutely anything. "Qualified" is another story, and I'd argue it's entirely independent of "proper training," and also basically impossible to quantify. From that, it's arguably even more ignorant to argue someone who isn't officially trained isn't capable of the level of skill required to replace a battery.

Should every Joe jump in and tear apart their own computer? Probably not. But if they have a realistic idea of the potential risks, the process and skills required, let's assume they're mature and intelligent enough to make a responsible judgment call as to whether they're qualified to perform the work on their own. I think pretending it's full of black magic that can only be harnessed by elite wizards with appropriate experience and training is frankly pathetic and condescending.
 
Hi Joe...

I've been discussing this topic at great length with GFR88 on PM notes...
..............................




W.M...
I certainly wouldn't characterize the exchange that took place as a discussion since one side would be better described as more invective than discussion but maybe that is just a sign of the times. I won't repeat any of it on this public forum but if anybody is curious I would be happy to share the unabridged exchange in a PM
 
Hi Joe...

I've been discussing this topic at great length with GFR88 on PM notes...

I'm a certified SP service tec...I wouldn't perform this re/re...and I wouldn't recommend any other non authorized person perform this service...

The battery is soldered in...the cavity behind the membrane is partially filled with oil...as well as re-filling the cavity with a specific quantity of special purpose oil...air has to be evacuated out during the membrane re-sealing process...because the membrane sealing surface is not round...proper membrane re positioning is critical to ensure there is no leak...

I like critical life support components serviced by qualified/trained technicians...

Good luck with your $0.99 computers...

Bell Helmets used to have a great ''saying''...if you have a ten dollar head...buy a ten dollar helmet...

No offence intended...

W.M...
It IS useful to understand how critical the mechanical tolerances are on the significant components.

The outer shell pieces snap together. Kind of like those SnapTite models we used to see as kids. The membrane is flexible and seats in a simple u shaped groove. Very sloppy tolerance. No precision anywhere.

So if you can disassemble and re-assemble some Lego's, I claim you can handle the mechanical side of this.

P.S. Despite my characterization above, I consider the computer to be a brilliant design. Simple to assemble and service with zero mechanical pressure issues. Chance of flooding approaches zero.
 
We do service the Uwatec Nitrox Pro as well as any other Uwatec dive computer with exception of the Nitrox Air (is totally glued and can not be put back together in a reliable way) and Uwatec's last generation, the Smart series with an infrared interface (Pro, Com, Tec, etc). We charge $70, plus return shipping and the service includes waterproofing the unit. Check our website: www.divewatchdoctor.com.
It's true that the procedure can be performed by a person with some technical vocation and very good soldering skills to unsolder the 3.6V battery and solder back the new, without toasting the miniature electronic components (particularly those close to the battery "+" terminal). The next step, removing the air bubbles while refilling the oil, requires a lot of patience and is tricky. Finally, you have to restart the computer and get it to read "battery 99%". This is the last step and you have to wait until it shows the "Err" reading, which "normally" happens right after installing the fresh battery. Once there and if you know how to apply the correct electrical impulse, the oldest ones (Aladin Pro, Sport Plus, etc.) are relatively easy to restart. The Nitrox Pro, Nitrox Pro2, not so easy because they tend to have an autonomous spirit.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom