Scubapro Second Stage Lever Height

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Not a problem.

The important thing to remember about these levers is that the "large foot" lever does not work well with the S-wing or Duro poppet.

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Thanks!
Which regs were equipped with the old "large foot" lever?
The old 109?
Is it possible to file the feet for converting a "large foot" (right) into a "narrow foot" center?
Finally, does the "new" model on the left work on an old 109 converted to BA with the S-wing poppet?
 
Not a problem.

The important thing to remember about these levers is that the "large foot" lever does not work well with the S-wing or Duro poppet.

View attachment 577804
I didn't know that! What's the issue?
 
Thanks!
Which regs were equipped with the old "large foot" lever?
The old 109?

Yes, some of the 109s...and possibly some of the Balance Adjustables with the old blue poppet-I'm not sure about that last part.

does the "new" model on the left work on an old 109 converted to BA with the S-wing poppet?

Yes. The "curly foot lever" works very well with a BA or G250 with an S-wing or a 109 with a duro poppet.

Is it possible to file the feet for converting a "large foot" (right) into a "narrow foot" center?

If anyone can do it, it would be you @Angelo Farina :-) I look forward to your findings. However, levers are not terribly expensive so my version of DIY requires that I just replace it.

I didn't know that! What's the issue?

The issue with the "large foot lever" and the newer style poppets is the way the lever feet engage with the poppet feet. For some reason, the poppet tends to jump over the large feet with a resonating "TWANG!" coming from the spring. I damaged two Duro poppets before figuring out what was happening. To make things complicated, this does not always happen, but it does all too often.
 
During poppet insertion?
Yes or shortly after when exercising the lever.
 
Measure from the flat spot on the barrel to the top of the lever arms. That dimension should be 0.7 inches (give or take a little.)

What if you’re not rich like me and cannot source one? Only a fool with a death wish would try this, but for your entertainment here is a picture of another method of adjusting the lever tabs.
poor-mans-lever-height-tool-jpg.522250.jpg

Great post. Very educational !

You give the ideal height of the lever from the top of the barrel to the top of the lever. The problem is that when adjusting the lever it is laying "backwards" in the spanner.

To adjust the lever without bending a little, inserting back in barrel, measure, remove and repeat, we would ideally need the reversed height from the clamped feet to either the top of the lever (or the cross bar) while the lever is reversed in the clamp / spanner.

If 0.7" ( though it looks closer to 0.65" ) is the ideal height from the top of the barrel to the top of the lever, please can you let me know what is the correct height from the clamped feet to the lever crossbar or top of lever in the reversed clamped position ?
 
The issue with the "large foot lever" and the newer style poppets is the way the lever feet engage with the poppet feet. For some reason, the poppet tends to jump over the large feet with a resonating "TWANG!" coming from the spring. I damaged two Duro poppets before figuring out what was happening. To make things complicated, this does not always happen, but it does all too often.

I have had this issue when trying to upgrade a 109, but didn't consider that the lever feet may be the cause of the problem ... Thank you !
 
If 0.7" ( though it looks closer to 0.65" ) is the ideal height from the top of the barrel to the top of the lever, please can you let me know what is the correct height from the clamped feet to the lever crossbar or top of lever in the reversed clamped position ?

From the center of your clamp to the top of the lever (where it mates with the diaphragm disc) is 1.00 inches.

lever dimension.jpg
 

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