Scubapro O-ring Sizes

[ams511]

And for God's sake, why such high quantities? If you really want to put out a very useful product-do your research (we don't mind helping here) and put kits together for a single model rebuild. Bryan at Vintage Double Hose has done this with success as have others.

I will disagree with Couv on this point. I do like the option of purchasing some of the hard to find o-rings in bulk. I collect (ok hoard) different regulators, some I keep others I will sell off. The ones I sell off I want to make sure they work so I clean and rebuild them. Most o-rings I can source here in the US. Some I can even purchase from Amazon. The special ones like the poppet o-rings for Apeks and Scubapro are difficult to find here.

While VDH is a great source of both information and materials, if you are doing multiple regulators or rebuilding one to sell it is not cost effective.

 

[Couv]

I will disagree with Couv on this point.

Great minds think alike but fools seldom differ.

I buy in bulk too for the same reasons you do-there are plenty of sources for bulk o-rings already including McMaster Carr, O-rings Inc, PAI (has the poppet seals.) However, I would venture to say most folks that come to the DIY forum are looking for a reasonably priced alternative to the pirates selling kits on auctions sites.

 

[Bryan@Vintage Double Hose]

I will disagree with Couv on this point. I do like the option of purchasing some of the hard to find o-rings in bulk. I collect (ok hoard) different regulators, some I keep others I will sell off. The ones I sell off I want to make sure they work so I clean and rebuild them. Most o-rings I can source here in the US. Some I can even purchase from Amazon. The special ones like the poppet o-rings for Apeks and Scubapro are difficult to find here.

While VDH is a great source of both information and materials, if you are doing multiple regulators or rebuilding one to sell it is not cost effective.

Most buyers want to do one or two regulators and they don't have time or are not inclined to search high and low buying one part here and one part there to get it done. I have put together kits for regulators the customers request the most. I do it as economical as I can but it is impossible to maintain a business selling someone one O-ring for .50 then putting it in a padded envelope that cost me .25, print a label and pay myself.
My stock of O-rings rotates quickly so I'm able to maintain fresh stock all the time. Unfortunately each time someone comes up with a vendor or supplier that will sell them O-rings .01 cheaper than I will then they become the flavor of the moment and I'm kicked to the curb. Despite the fact that many O-rings are sourced from companies that make them from recycled materials that may or may not be the quality you would want to use.
I maintain the largest and the best on line resource library for divers servicing their own regulators and I do it for free. But when I can't make a reasonable profit in the store my incentive to expand and continue offering parts to the community drops off dramatically.

 

[Couv]

Never the less in the file you send me again and in the other files as well as the results of my identification process based on the original o-ring samples indicate that the 2.5m x 1mm part no 01-050-363 is made of NBR and is a soft oring .

Have another look at that file. At the very top on Row 8 shows the latest (latest info I have) for the -363. Shore 70/ Material EP / I.D. 2.2mm / C.S. 1.0mm

The confusion comes from the unfortunate decision SP made to assign the old part number to the new seal. Almost understandable as it's the same application.

I copied the information from a file a friend has (SP REV N4 -General revision- Date 10/01/08- October 1st in the US.) Please don't ask me to send a copy of the file-I cannot.

 

[Couv]

Most buyers want to do one or two regulators and they don't have time or are not inclined to search high and low buying one part here and one part there to get it done.

Very true my friend. What sort of twit would go to several different sites, buy 50 or 60 times the number of seals he needs, pay shipping, and still come up short when he needs an orifice, lock nut, special screws, etc? The time and aggravation saved by buying from your online store make it a bargain.

Couv (former twit)

 

[Scubagaskets]

Hi there again

I have been investing a lot of time and resources for some years now in order to make scuba gaskets and i was so alarmed by some comments here of wrong part numbers or even worse of old o'rings. In any case I just want to say that Scubagaskets is cooperating very close from day one with a leading company in the area of selas named Europeseals BV Holland, and scubagaskets is specializing only on scuba o-rings. I do my best to provide the best possible product at the best possible price with free delivery globally for all orders over 30 euro. All scuba o-ring identification process was made with the use of very specialised equipment of Europeseals that is suitable for precision o'ring measurements as well as other methods for the identification of Hardness and material (not with a small hand tool or by experience) The identification process was based on the original o-ring samples and all findings were cross checked with 3 different o-ring charts and lists. All Scubagskets o-ring stock is very new due to constant sales globally. All product codes that are mentioned under each of my product corresponds to part no of the manufacturer specially for scubapro.I have made an additional cross check since last night and i can assure you that all scubapro part numbers, that are mentioned under each of my products corresponds to the original o-ring properties (sh, material and size). The only exception to the above rule is that in some few cases nitrile o-rings are offered for sale instead of ethylene-propylene (EPDM) using the same manufacturer part no. Since the only difference of those materials, is the aging process due to high temperature resistance of EPDM material than NBR (EPDM up to 160 C) and since temperatures of that scale are not within the operation temperatures of scuba gear, this is of minor importance.There is nothing else that can affect the performance of o-ring. The shelf life of both materials are so long( with EPDM reaching up to 20 years) that many annual services of your scuba gear will take place by the time that the o-rings will expire due time. Of Course there is always the possibility of typo errors in my page that why i will run a cross check for all the brand product numbers that i have in case of any mistakes. in respect of 2.2 x1.00 and 2.5 x 1 i used the same product number eventually 01.050.363 unless there is a better way to suggest.
Thanks for your contribution.
For any further questions or suggestions feel free to contact me .

Have another look at that file. At the very top on Row 8 shows the latest (latest info I have) for the -363. Shore 70/ Material EP / I.D. 2.2mm / C.S. 1.0mm

The confusion comes from the unfortunate decision SP made to assign the old part number to the new seal. Almost understandable as it's the same application.

I copied the information from a file a friend has (SP REV N4 -General revision- Date 10/01/08- October 1st in the US.) Please don't ask me to send a copy of the file-I cannot.

 

[Bryan@Vintage Double Hose]

Very true my friend. What sort of twit would go to several different sites, buy 50 or 60 times the number of seals he needs, pay shipping, and still come up short when he needs an orifice, lock nut, special screws, etc? The time and aggravation saved by buying from your online store make it a bargain.

Couv (former twit)

I appreciate your support!
Let me give you an example of what I'm up against. We all know that using a bullet tool is a no vote option when assembling certain regulators. It's a tool that the average diver may use once or twice but it's a must have to do the job right. @herman could not make them cheap enough to be worth his time and effort so I sourced them so he and I could have them for our customers.
I spent around $1200.00 having the tools made and have them in the store for $8.00 or $5.00 if you buy them with a service kit. As you can see it's going to take me a while to get that coin back. But when I see posts from divers I know answering questions saying you don't need one or don't buy one, just sharpen up a wood dowel or melt down and form one from plastic spoons etc...it really takes the wind out of my sails for putting out new products. I guess I better park my wambulance on the subject LOL.....I really do appreciate the support of the community as there is no way I'd survive without it.

 

[ams511]

Most buyers want to do one or two regulators and they don't have time or are not inclined to search high and low buying one part here and one part there to get it done. I have put together kits for regulators the customers request the most. I do it as economical as I can but it is impossible to maintain a business selling someone one O-ring for .50 then putting it in a padded envelope that cost me .25, print a label and pay myself.
My stock of O-rings rotates quickly so I'm able to maintain fresh stock all the time. Unfortunately each time someone comes up with a vendor or supplier that will sell them O-rings .01 cheaper than I will then they become the flavor of the moment and I'm kicked to the curb. Despite the fact that many O-rings are sourced from companies that make them from recycled materials that may or may not be the quality you would want to use.
I maintain the largest and the best on line resource library for divers servicing their own regulators and I do it for free. But when I can't make a reasonable profit in the store my incentive to expand and continue offering parts to the community drops off dramatically.

I am not kicking you to the curb nor complaining about price or the quality of items you sell. I have purchased items from you in the past and will continue to do so in the future. I also recommend your company to others. I realize that you need a certain margin to keep in business.

However for someone like myself (a hoarder) that has multiple regulators of the same type it is more cost efficient for me to purchase the parts separately. Some of the items I purchase I sell because either I changed my mind or found a better example. Before I sell them I usually try to service them to make sure they work properly. It really doesn't make sense for me to spend $20 on kits for a regulator I may be lucky to get $35 before fees. I don't sell them as serviced and tell the buyers to have them checked at their local LDS.

For someone with one or two regulators it is way more cost effective to purchase the complete kit from you.

 

[ams511]

We all know that using a bullet tool is a no vote option when assembling certain regulators. It's a tool that the average diver may use once or twice but it's a must have to do the job right. @herman could not make them cheap enough to be worth his time and effort so I sourced them so he and I could have them for our customers. I spent around $1200.00 having the tools made and have them in the store for $8.00 or $5.00 if you buy them with a service kit. As you can see it's going to take me a while to get that coin back. But when I see posts from divers I know answering questions saying you don't need one or don't buy one, just sharpen up a wood dowel or melt down and form one from plastic spoons etc...it really takes the wind out of my sails for putting out new products.

Several years ago I purchased a lot of books from a diver, included was a workbook from a regulator repair course. Actually the tool they used as a piston bullet was a sanded down wooden dowel. I think Vance Harlow also mentioned it in his book. I have heard of using straws but the melted spoon is a new one on me.

I use a piston bullet, but I bought mine at Scuba Tools years ago before you started to carry them. If you want to branch out into tools my recommendation would be to look at general tools that can be adapted to scuba. Rather than building your own. For example, there must be a off-the-shelf socket that can be used for yoke nuts. I read that pin spanners are used in cycling. Plastic o-ring pics are used in car repair. etc.

 

[Bryan@Vintage Double Hose]

Several years ago I purchased a lot of books from a diver, included was a workbook from a regulator repair course. Actually the tool they used as a piston bullet was a sanded down wooden dowel. I think Vance Harlow also mentioned it in his book. I have heard of using straws but the melted spoon is a new one on me.

I use a piston bullet, but I bought mine at Scuba Tools years ago before you started to carry them. If you want to branch out into tools my recommendation would be to look at general tools that can be adapted to scuba. Rather than building your own. For example, there must be a off-the-shelf socket that can be used for yoke nuts. I read that pin spanners are used in cycling. Plastic o-ring pics are used in car repair. etc.

@herman has most of the specialty tools covered and I'm not really interested in being in the tool business. There are many off the shelf tools that work for scuba gear already and the profit in re- making any of those is nil. I currently offer a nice blue nylon pick that is used in the refrigeration business that adapts very well to working on regulators. It's available very inexpensively in the website store. When customers order multiple service kits I usually include one of the blue picks along with a stiff nylon brush, small tube of silicone and a spare O-ring kit as a way of saying Thank you and also to help them make their projects a success.