Scubapro G200B manual

[ams511]

I recently repaired one like that on an old 250. It was the vane held by a circ-clip. It was an old high-duro oring that was almost plastic with age. Smashed into the groove. I carefully coaxed the pieces out with a brass oring pick.

Thank you Rusty, this is exactly my problem. It is held in place by the c-clip.

EDIT: The easiest way I found was careful use of an xacto-knife to cut it enough to get a brass pick inside to finish the job.

 

[halocline]

Yes I know that, I wanted to make sure I was disassembling it correctly. However I do have a question. I removed the viva vane and found the o-ring is bonded to the vane. Have you ever come across this? If so, how did you remove it?

This reg is strange. It has the new duro poppet with two o-rings but still has the old red o-rings in it.

Sorry I'm a little late, but those red SP o-rings are frequently dried and brittle when I encounter them in an old reg. The red cap o-ring on the D300/350 is another one. Maybe the red ones were made out of a different compound, I don't know. I would not use a high duro o-ring on the vane because it's a pretty tight fit. But if you can get one in there I can't imagine it would hurt. The newer vanes just push-fit in, there's no circlip to hold them.

 

[ams511]

Sorry I'm a little late, but those red SP o-rings are frequently dried and brittle when I encounter them in an old reg. The red cap o-ring on the D300/350 is another one. Maybe the red ones were made out of a different compound, I don't know. I would not use a high duro o-ring on the vane because it's a pretty tight fit. But if you can get one in there I can't imagine it would hurt. The newer vanes just push-fit in, there's no circlip to hold them.

Now you tell me. LOL.

I used a 90 duro because that is all I had. It was difficult to get it in. But for what its worth. I slide the o-ring on a straw to get it on the flat part of the flow vane. Would have loved to get it in position but it would not work because the straw is not strong enough. What is needed is a brass tube with a bullet to stretch the o-ring on the tube to place it in position. Herman are you listening?

Once the o-ring is on the flat part. A few minutes and curse words later I put it on the grove where the c-clip sits. Then I inserted it in the case and it falls into position. I lubed it. Then I wrapped the knob and regulator with neoprene from an old drink cozy and used channel locks (a C-clamp would be better) to push the knob in. Nothing was marred or damaged. After that it is simple to insert the clip back into place.

These regulators were "sleepers" in the sense they looked good on the outside but internally they were corroded to the point I had difficulty getting the hoses off and the orifice out.

Next time I will use some phosphoric acid as someone recommended to clean the corrosion off. Alternating between a vinegar bath and the ultrasonic did a good job but not a perfect one.

 

[Couv]

...red SP o-rings are frequently dried and brittle when I encounter them

A combination of age, Nitrile rubber, and color pigment turn those seals into crispy critters. I haven't found the longevity of polyurethane seals to be much of an improvement. I just rebuilt 4 MK10s that had PU o-rings on the piston head and stem. They leaked like a sieve from the ambient chamber, and when I disassembled the reg bodies I found the seals hard and brittle. Lots of fun digging the bits out of the piston stem groove.

 

[Rusty Shackleford]

It’s funny with no rhyme or reason. I have removed good nitrile and urethane o ring and removed some that were almost dust.

I think how well-lubed made a huge difference.

My hypothesis is orings slathered in silicon grease will last almost indefinitely regardless of construction.

 

[Couv]

orings slathered in silicon grease will last almost indefinitely regardless of construction.

Negatory. The PU seals in the aforementioned post were heaping with silicone grease. Oddly enough the red Nitrile seals, even when crispy, seem to do an ok job until disturbed.

 

[buddhasummer]

Was there ever a manual for servicing a G200 B. I have the diagrams but no manuals.

I'll have a look at my SP files.

 

[Rusty Shackleford]

I just upgraded a G200 to a B. Straightforward. Just needed the balance chamber, the S-Wing Poppet and new spring. Will hopefully dive it tomorrow.

The internals were ancient. Had the eraser head fixed seat poppet. The VIVA oring was plasticized and destroyed upon removal.
The red barrel and cap orings were a touch stiff but not bad. I soaked them in wintergreen oil and revitalized them. Re-used them. Replaced all other orings and cleaned all the verdigis with water-vinegar mix for 15 min.

Set the cracking effort to 1.3. A bit tighter than normal since it’s an octo reg.

 

[Couv]

I'll check back here tomorrow and the Cocoa Beach obits to see how things worked out.

 

[Rusty Shackleford]

Much nicer than the 190 I had on it. Breathes almost as easy as the 250 and the only reason for almost is the fact I set the cracking pressure to 1.3 since it’s an octo.

That completes my vintage circa early to mid 90s set of Scubapro regs. MK-10, G200 now B and G250.

It breathes so close to the best new regs on the market now, I defy most people to tell the difference.

Gratuitous dive photos: