i bought a scuba pro classic BC and a mk10/d400 regulator and a scuba pro octopus.no gauges for a hundred bucks. i am looking for some tips and personal experiences on this setup. I am looking for a two console gauge setup as well, if the is any body with that and is willing to sell that would be great.
scubapro d400/mk10 questions
- Thread starter gigihurt
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Recneps
Registered
I have the D400/MK10+ setup and love it. It is a fantastic breathing reg. Great bubble dispersion. Looks a little unconventional but so what since you will love the effortless breathing.
The classic BC is a real workhorse. Plenty of lift for any recreational diving. The SP Super Cinch tank strap works great....may be its best feature. Tighten it up and the tank will never come loose. No need to even wet the strap first.
The classic BC is a real workhorse. Plenty of lift for any recreational diving. The SP Super Cinch tank strap works great....may be its best feature. Tighten it up and the tank will never come loose. No need to even wet the strap first.
halocline
Contributor
One of the all time classic regulators. You really couldn't find anything that breathes better in a real world, while diving setting. There are a few 2nd stages that look better on a test machine but do not feel as natural. You just need to find someone that really knows how to work on them.
Recneps
Registered
What halocline says I've heard quite frequently. My D400 has had annual service at 2 different shops, both SP dealers, the one where I bought it and one near where I live now. I've sought out service at SP dealers figuring they will see more of these than a non-SP dealer. I'm sure there are competent non-SP techs out there who could tune these but I've had great tunes at the 2 SP dealers I've used....maybe I've just been lucky.
halocline
Contributor
It's just a different type of design than conventional 2nd stages. There are also different generations of D400s; I've never had one of the later ones with the plastic orifice, but I hear that they don't tune as well.
I think a common mistake made is getting a bit of twist in the adjustment spring from screwing in the lid; I usually rock the adjustment lid back and forth a few times to make sure the spring is settled. Getting the lever just right sometimes takes a bit of monkeying as well. I don't know if it's the 'official' way, but I set it so that there's a tiny bit of play and then fine tune the spring tension.
I think a common mistake made is getting a bit of twist in the adjustment spring from screwing in the lid; I usually rock the adjustment lid back and forth a few times to make sure the spring is settled. Getting the lever just right sometimes takes a bit of monkeying as well. I don't know if it's the 'official' way, but I set it so that there's a tiny bit of play and then fine tune the spring tension.
The D400 is different than convention regs in that it is a center balanced design with an entirely different lever arrangement.
That was one of the major reasons SP discontinued it - it required totally different tech training and I suspect they felt the numbers sold did not justify that. They do cover it in their vintage "expert tech" course, but quite frankly I was not impressed as there is no way a new or more recently minted tech would ever learn enough in that course to effectively service and tune one. As such it is a skill a tech would have to learn from an older SP tech who was familiar with them back in the day. Thus when tech shopping - look for the old guys.
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In terms of tuning, it is not hard, but order is important and you need to start with enough play in the lever to ensure it does not interfere with properly tuning the spring pressure on the poppet. The spring also has a tendency to "wind" a bit when being adjusted so you want to screw it in about a quarter turn too far and end the adjustment by uncrewing it that 1/4 turn. Once the spring pressure is established, then you adjust the lever play - with just enough to prevent it from being touchy or sensitive, but not so much as to reduce the response or working range of the valve.
And there are some oddities with changes that have occurred over the years. The aspirators with the plastic orifices allow the orifice to be replaced rather than the whole aspirator, but the plastic orifice is not as sharp and may not all ow the same degree of tuning in terms of low inhalation effort - especially with the newer black poppets that seem to be coated with something. With those poppets throwing them in the ultrasonic cleaner for a couple minutes really helps.
There wer also some lever changes - the early ones have a single milled flat and the later ones have a pressed section that creates 2 flats. the later levers are a real pita and do not tune as well, but I think they meet some obscure CE requirement.
In general, the CE requirements were the death of the D400 as meeting the CE freeeflow requirements required changes that really detuned the reg. In general my impression has been that some of the CE requirements were intended to level the playing field for EU regs by putting better performing regs like the D400 at a disadvantage. I took offense, so if another world war brews up over there, they'll need to handle it on their own.
That was one of the major reasons SP discontinued it - it required totally different tech training and I suspect they felt the numbers sold did not justify that. They do cover it in their vintage "expert tech" course, but quite frankly I was not impressed as there is no way a new or more recently minted tech would ever learn enough in that course to effectively service and tune one. As such it is a skill a tech would have to learn from an older SP tech who was familiar with them back in the day. Thus when tech shopping - look for the old guys.
----
In terms of tuning, it is not hard, but order is important and you need to start with enough play in the lever to ensure it does not interfere with properly tuning the spring pressure on the poppet. The spring also has a tendency to "wind" a bit when being adjusted so you want to screw it in about a quarter turn too far and end the adjustment by uncrewing it that 1/4 turn. Once the spring pressure is established, then you adjust the lever play - with just enough to prevent it from being touchy or sensitive, but not so much as to reduce the response or working range of the valve.
And there are some oddities with changes that have occurred over the years. The aspirators with the plastic orifices allow the orifice to be replaced rather than the whole aspirator, but the plastic orifice is not as sharp and may not all ow the same degree of tuning in terms of low inhalation effort - especially with the newer black poppets that seem to be coated with something. With those poppets throwing them in the ultrasonic cleaner for a couple minutes really helps.
There wer also some lever changes - the early ones have a single milled flat and the later ones have a pressed section that creates 2 flats. the later levers are a real pita and do not tune as well, but I think they meet some obscure CE requirement.
In general, the CE requirements were the death of the D400 as meeting the CE freeeflow requirements required changes that really detuned the reg. In general my impression has been that some of the CE requirements were intended to level the playing field for EU regs by putting better performing regs like the D400 at a disadvantage. I took offense, so if another world war brews up over there, they'll need to handle it on their own.
R
redacted
Guest
Another good thing is, unlike most other balanced 2nds, most of the closing "spring" force is provided by the air pressure rather than the mechanical spring. (I calculated it once and vaguely recall about a 25% vs 75% split.) So small changes in spring tension (adjustment) do not have as great an impact on cracking pressure as with most other 2nds. That means the adjustment of the mechanical spring tensioner really does not have to be right on to get excellent performance.
i believe my reg is the pre 1995 fom the design on the purge cover, does that mean it does not have the plastic orfice? i am new to diving and would this be fine for a long lasting reg? how well do they work in cold water? is there anymore of a chance of free flowing than any other regulator?
It should have a metal orifice unless it's had the orifice/aspirator replaced.
They have excellent reliability in cold water.
The low spring pressure also means seat life is extremely long.
They have excellent reliability in cold water.
The low spring pressure also means seat life is extremely long.
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