Scubapro D300/D350/D400

[halocline]

I rarely use a manometer and do not own a magnehelic gauge, and I've been servicing D series regs for over a decade. One nice thing about the D series is their position stability with regards to case geometry fault. So you don't need to worry that a too-lightly-set 2nd stage will start free flowing in some diving positions. I set my D300s just shy of free flow with an IP of about 130-135 and leave it at that. I used to be more interested in the specific cracking effort measurement, but now I just trust my perception of how they breathe.

 

[johnnywulff]

I rarely use a manometer and do not own a magnehelic gauge, and I've been servicing D series regs for over a decade. One nice thing about the D series is their position stability with regards to case geometry fault. So you don't need to worry that a too-lightly-set 2nd stage will start free flowing in some diving positions. I set my D300s just shy of free flow with an IP of about 130-135 and leave it at that. I used to be more interested in the specific cracking effort measurement, but now I just trust my perception of how they breathe.

Same experience you don't need to adjust at pick performance to feel it, that they breath smooth and more natural that any second stage on the market

 

[buddhasummer]

I rarely use a manometer and do not own a magnehelic gauge, and I've been servicing D series regs for over a decade. One nice thing about the D series is their position stability with regards to case geometry fault. So you don't need to worry that a too-lightly-set 2nd stage will start free flowing in some diving positions. I set my D300s just shy of free flow with an IP of about 130-135 and leave it at that. I used to be more interested in the specific cracking effort measurement, but now I just trust my perception of how they breathe.

The last two G250s I overhauled I didn't check cracking just adjusted shy of free flow and took them for a dive, my primary was set a little too light so after the dive turned in the orifice a fraction and that was that. It seems with a 109/156/G250/D series and Conshelfs a mag is not really needed as adjust the same and after the first dive just re adjust if required. Where they are cracking is more out of curiosity than necessity it appears. My diving buddies do look impressed when I get the gauge out though haha, like a pro. I guess they are useful if having an issue or checking other people's unknown regs.

 

[craydive]

Hi, I am trying to determine the manufacture date range for the various D series regs.

On the scubapro website time line I see the D300 was manufacturered between 1986 to 1990.

Can anyone help me with the following:
D300 1986 to 1990
D350
D400

With the D400 when was the poppet changed?

Whilst we are at it: When was the Mk10 and Mk20 manufacture date ranges
cheers
stevet

 

[johnnywulff]

Hi all the D series:
Pilot 1977 -1979
Air 1 1979-1990
D300 1986-1990
D350 1991-1993
D400 1994-2002
orifice and housing change 2000-2002
Cheers

 

[craydive]

wow Johnny that was super quick. Thanks.

Maybe another question. On the side of some D400 photos I see CE0098 and EN250 printed. This is just above where the LP hose connects to the D400. May I ask what this means and does it point to when the D400 was made. I am wondering if this helps determin if it was an earlier D400 or later D400.
cheers
stevet

 

[johnnywulff]

wow Johnny that was super quick. Thanks.

Maybe another question. On the side of some D400 photos I see CE0098 and EN250 printed. This is just above where the LP hose connects to the D400. May I ask what this means and does it point to when the D400 was made. I am wondering if this helps determin if it was an earlier D400 or later D400.
cheers
stevet

That is the late production 2000-2002 and indicated Standard European Union Certified that's way the made the changes.

 

[craydive]

thanks Johnny

 

[RVeal]

Greetings all,

This is my first post (that I remember anyway). Just serviced two of my "D" series second stages this weekend. I've been diving them for years, but have always had someone else service them. Thanks for all of the help/advice. I've pulled most of what I read on servicing these and put it into a word file I'm attaching. Most everything I have here is from DA Aquamaster - thanks again. I have added one personal tip. Pulling the purge cover off is a real pain. I finally made it easier by using homemade wet suit lube. 25% hair conditioner/75% water in a squirt bottle. Squirt a bit into each of the two exhaust ports, wiggle the port around a bit to get it all slippery, then tug it off. Also, I found one of my plastic aspirators was cracked. Fixed it with a bit of super glue and the covered the repair with a tiny touch of 3M-5200. Works fine. File is attached below. Thanks.

 

[halocline]

Very useful document, thank you for putting it together!