Scubapro 1st Stage Servicing Questions

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(1) MK10 Spacer?

That is a sealing washer. After years of technicians struggling with a -013 o-ring in that position, SP decided a sealing washer was a better idea. You may judge that decision for yourself. Personally, I use a -013 (duro 85-90) to seal the hp seat.

To properly install that seal there are a few methods.
The SP recommended method: " 01-050-147 o-ring can be installed with the aid of a 3/8" nut driver. To properly locate this o-ring, lightly lubricate it, then place it into the body and chase it with the end the nut driver to fully seat it. Apply a downward pressure using a rocking action..." <-- this works pretty well, but history tells us there were problems with this technique.

Another way: Install the lubricated seal, chase it with the seat and seat retainer, remove the seat retainer and inspect your work.

Another way: Install the lubricated seal, chase it with the bottom half of the piston stem o-ring installation tool (if you have one), remove the tool and inspect your work.

Still another way and a bit easier IMO: Install the lubricated seal, chase it with the YOKE NUT. Remove the nut and inspect.
 
Thanks! Funny enough, it's missing the MK15, but appears to have the rest.

To find MK15 diagrams on VDH, look in the Scubapro schematics and parts folder and then open the folder at the top labeled 1st. Edit - I see James79 already has that covered.
 
@halocline might be interested in trading a MK10 for your MK15

The MK15 is a decent regulator, but the parts kit issue is reason enough for me to not keep any.
 

Attachments

What I do with a MK 15 that comes into my possession, if it’s nice and clean, free of corrosion


1. If a DIN, I remove that.

2. I remove the port plugs





3. I toss it in the scrap bin or give it to someone who likes them.
 
(2) MK15 Service Kits

I'm having a little trouble finding MK15 service kits. I saw one site which suggests 10-750-045 works on the MK15

MK15 Annual Repair kit P/N is 10-600-041

The MK15 has a unique seat not found in any other regulator.
 
Look in Manuals and Catalongs > Scubapro schematics, Parts, Service > 1st > MK15
Perfect, thanks, I didn't look under "1st"
I'm looking at a similar one, I probably would have saved myself $50 (or more) worth of time already, had I already used it on the 1st stages I cleaned. Plus I have a bunch of other uses. I'll probably order something by the end of today.

That is a sealing washer. After years of technicians struggling with a -013 o-ring in that position, SP decided a sealing washer was a better idea. You may judge that decision for yourself. Personally, I use a -013 (duro 85-90) to seal the hp seat.

To properly install that seal there are a few methods.
The SP recommended method: " 01-050-147 o-ring can be installed with the aid of a 3/8" nut driver. To properly locate this o-ring, lightly lubricate it, then place it into the body and chase it with the end the nut driver to fully seat it. Apply a downward pressure using a rocking action..." <-- this works pretty well, but history tells us there were problems with this technique.

Another way: Install the lubricated seal, chase it with the seat and seat retainer, remove the seat retainer and inspect your work.

Still another way and a bit easier IMO: Install the lubricated seal, chase it with the YOKE NUT. Remove the nut and inspect.
Thanks, that's helpful.

The -013 85-90 duro might be easier and cheaper to acquire.

I have a few tools from Scuba Tools that I think are supposed to help with installing the HP Seat. However, failing that I'll try one (or more) of the methods you described.

@halocline might be interested in trading a MK10 for your MK15

The MK15 is a decent regulator, but the parts kit issue is reason enough for me to not keep any.
I swapped the din MK15 with my yoke-MK10 parts. However, if someone still wanted the MK15, I'd probably be willing to trade for a MK10, or some service kits.

What I do with a MK 15 that comes into my possession, if it’s nice and clean, free of corrosion

1. If a DIN, I remove that.

2. I remove the port plugs

3. I toss it in the scrap bin or give it to someone who likes them.
You're probably right. I already stole the DIN-adapter for my MK10.

MK15 Annual Repair kit P/N is 10-600-041

The MK15 has a unique seat not found in any other regulator.
Thanks, the part-number helps. I think I might follow everyone else's advice and trade it.
 
New Question: Flooded 1st stage.

I happened to get some lake-water in the first-stage of a MK10. After, I remove the SPG, and purged air through all the hoses until everything seems to be dry at least to the point of no water droplets. There filter or inner walls could still be wet maybe (I'm keeping it pressurizes at the moment to help dry it).

I believe the IP was 135psi before. The IP now is about 120psi, and after 30 minutes creeps up to 128 psi, then back to 120psi after purging the 2nd stage. Should I do a basic disassemble, rinse with water, dry, and re-assemble? Or do I need to do more extensive servicing?

Should my 2nd stage also be disassembled and rinsed out?
 
Remove both hp ports and the seat retainer (leave the seat in the retainer.) Any sign of moisture would indicate a complete disassembly, clean, dry, reassemble and try again. You can probably leave the piston stem o-ring untouched. At this point I don't see any reason you cannot use all of the same components after they have been dealt with.

Just blow out the second stage.

Edit: Let me backup just a moment. This is a first stage you've recently rebuilt, right?
 
Remove both hp ports and the seat retainer (leave the seat in the retainer.) Any sign of moisture would indicate a complete disassembly, clean, dry, reassemble and try again. You can probably leave the piston stem o-ring untouched. At this point I don't see any reason you cannot use all of the same components after they have been dealt with.

Just blow out the second stage.

Edit: Let me backup just a moment. This is a first stage you've recently rebuilt, right?
No, I was waiting until I got the cleaning solution(s) for the ultrasonic, before I put the other MK10s back together. This wasn't the one from Herman either (I'm sure he'd be annoyed if I dunked it on the 2nd dive, hah).

Having so many MK10s is confusing! Now I'm remembering more clearly which MK10 this is. This is one I had not taken apart yet, nor did I test the IP myself. The seller claimed it had new o-rings and 135 or 140 IP.

I took it apart, and it appeared to need some moderate cleaning, except the piston may need to go in the ultrasonic bath. There was some light corrosion stuck on the area that faces the spring, which wouldn't come off with just water and a nylon brush. Maybe rust from the spring? Otherwise, it was relatively clean with almost no corrosion anywhere else. O-rings appeared to be in good condition visually. The seat appeared to have minor wear or maybe dirt. After basic cleaning, drying, I greased and re-assembled it.

I've cycled it about 50 times, but I'm still seeing some creep, starting at 132 and ending at 142 in about 40 seconds. It may have done that when I received it. So, the good news is it's cleaner and appears to be working, no leaks or other odd behavior, other than the IP creep.
 

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