Scuba Fix

[tekkydiver]

No I am purely stating that a cobbled together repair is potentially unsafe and can prove disastrous if it re-fails at depth. It is impossible to adequately and appropriately test the integrity of a self-repair of this nature. Personally, I would use the repair kit if it cost less making it worth the experiment, but I would not allow another person to use the BCD. The fact that you were pompous enough to express that $75 to experiment with this repair kit is of no consequence makes one think that you have expendable income...if you truly do have expendable income then you would shell out the cash to replace your busted BCD, otherwise you are just truly pompous.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

-Z

So I was indeed correct, you have no first hand knowledge of the product. Thanks for the reply

 

[Zef]

So I was indeed correct, you have no first hand knowledge of the product. Thanks for the reply

It would seem we are both correct.

And, you're welcome.

-Z

 

[emoreira]

I work in a dive school. Students are way brute with dive school gear (dropping second stages to the floor by the pool, pulling from valve cord with enough force to move a car, using the power inflator shoulder valve to empty the BCD, etc). BCDs break constantly and we need to repair them also constantly. There is no way to replace a BCD each time a Valve/Inflator flange breaks.
I've seen that ScubaFix part and I consider it way too expensive (consider also shipping and taxes).
I've also been using DGX flanges, but they need a lot of modifications to be used with a normal BCD. Those flanges are intended for BP-W BCDs bladders.
I've tried to design a valve flange to be made with a mechanical lathe, but the cost was also high.

I've finally tried with a 3D printer. The results are fantastic. The repairs are lasting and no repair has been broken by the students. BCDs with this kind of repair were also used in dives in open ocean without any problem.

I was told that 3D printed parts are not suitable for sea use, not suitable for parts that will be subject to intense use, not suitable for a "life support device".
My experience, though limited, says the contrary.
I do understand that a well printed and robust part will withstand better than a piece of cordura. The way that the new flange is installed in the bladder is much better and stronger than the way the DGX flange is installed in a BP-W bladder, and those bladders are used by tech divers !
In fact the flanges that come welded to the BCD bladder are quite weak and break very early in the life of a BCD.

 

[Oitzu]

I've finally tried with a 3D printer. The results are fantastic. The repairs are lasting and no repair has been broken by the students.

Would you share the models you designed/used?
Which Material are you using for printing?
I do not plan to do this right now but are curious about the design.

 

[emoreira]

Would you share the models you designed/used?
Which Material are you using for printing?
I do not plan to do this right now but are curious about the design.

The first prints were in ABS. Now I'm printing in PLA. Always 100 % infill and 0,12 mm layer.
I should try with PETG or Naylon, but those materials are tricky to get a good print.
I received a lot of comments and suggestions and critics of what I should do and what I should not do, but at the end, my parts are working.

 

[Oitzu]

Nice models! Are they available on thingiverse or something else?

The first prints were in ABS. Now I'm printing in PLA. Always 100 % infill and 0,12 mm layer.

In which kind of climate do you live? In short: How does the reduced temperature stability of the PLA works out for you?

I should try with PETG or Naylon, but those materials are tricky to get a good print.

Yes, petg or nylon would be nice but with that many threads its already hard enough to get a good print with PLA, i guess.

I received a lot of comments and suggestions and critics of what I should do and what I should not do, but at the end, my parts are working.

Well... as you know, 3d-printing by its nature is a lot of try and error of what works and what not works.
So in the end the best parts are the parts that doing its job, yes.
Some design compromises are often not preventable.

 

[Wookie]

View attachment 521975 View attachment 521976
The first prints were in ABS. Now I'm printing in PLA. Always 100 % infill and 0,12 mm layer.
I should try with PETG or Naylon, but those materials are tricky to get a good print.
I received a lot of comments and suggestions and critics of what I should do and what I should not do, but at the end, my parts are working.

Coolest thing ever!!!

 

[emoreira]

Nice models! Are they available on thingiverse or something else?

In which kind of climate do you live? In short: How does the reduced temperature stability of the PLA works out for you?

Yes, petg or nylon would be nice but with that many threads its already hard enough to get a good print with PLA, i guess.

Well... as you know, 3d-printing by its nature is a lot of try and error of what works and what not works.
So in the end the best parts are the parts that doing its job, yes.
Some design compromises are often not preventable.

Models are not published.
Summer is not so hot, winter is not so cold. Mild climate down here.
PLA prints look great, much better finish quality than with ABS. May be I need some more teaks. The interior thread that mounts the exterior flange is bigger than the exterior thread where the original Inflator threads. Thought printing with 0.12 mm layer does the job.

 

[emoreira]

Coolest thing ever!!!

 

[W W Meixner]

Folks...

Just me...but when these types of failures occur...it's time for a replacement...

Nothing wrong with the kits shown...a successful/long-lasting repair is not dependant on the kit...but the condition of the surrounding material the kit is being attached to...

Lots of inexpensive sales/closeouts on ''new'' BCD's...

A spare is only a spare if it's trustworthy...

Again...just me...

Warren