San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Dive Trip; So, Where Is BELIZE, Anyway?

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DandyDon

Umbraphile
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
53,693
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Location
One kilometer high on the Texas Central Plains
# of dives
500 - 999
I had been fortunate enough to dive Roatan’s south walls and Cozumel’s drifts a couple of times each in the last three years, and had long wondered how it’d be halfway between, so when my newly adopted local dive shop announced details – I was in. Surely, it’d be good, and – it was, in spite of the operator…


Getting there...

Started with the usual leaving the house in the middle of the night, arriving at Lubbock’s cute little “international” airport over an hour before Continental’s flight time, sleeping my way to the first connection (this time Houston), then sleeping my way to the next, and then – it got interesting. Belize City’s terminal is not as modern as Cozumel’s, more like Roatan’s, so I started feeling like I was in a Banana Repulic long before seeing any of the sights. Cleared Customs, gladly paid a porter the posted rate of $2 BZ ($1 US) per 65# bag to hump my two some 100 yards to Myan Air, where we checked in for more casual boarding and seating than usually experienced: “Next three, this plane, please.” It was getting interesting.

The pilot didn’t have an intercom, but just spoke up to the 11 passengers as he taxied out to start the 18 minute last leg, and since we never got higher than 1,000 feet – which I could see clearly on the gauges, it was easy to see the swamps and coastlines below. A little guy in a white suit was atop our hotel watching and screaming “Thee Plane, Thee Plane!” as we approached, and soon we were on the ground looking at the only Hyperbaric Chamber in the country across the street from our terminal, wondering if we’d ever see our checked bags again. Two golf carts started meeting us, driven by a hotel agent and one of our Dive Guides for the week, and we were soon down the sandy Main Street and there.

“Aquamarina Suites,” a very nice hotel…

I signed there, stamped my plastic, and soon – I was changing into a fresh T-shirt in my bedroom, adjacent my oversized parlor and kitchenette, only a step from my balcony overlooking the pool and bar area. Some got housed in the connected annex overlooking an old, small cemetery, but they still had a nice view of the beach, ocean, and waves crashing on the barrier reef some half mile off shore, so they didn’t gripe, much. Most of us were soon getting to know our new bartender, Phillip – who seemed to have the 8am to 10pm 7 day shift, and then it was Briefing time, when we did our paperwork, the DGs pretended to look at our C-cards, we paid our $1 per tank Chamber fees so no one would have to have to present a DAN card accompanied by $500 deposit if any of us needed help, and then – it was dinner time, and we went exploring & feeding.

Diving With “Aqua Dives” Sucks…

The Captain/DG and First Mate/DG were both likeable fellows, and the new kid was okay as well, but I would not go with them again if I could find anyone else to go with. We had to turn out with our gear early enough to be on the dock on time every morning, less we might get left behind, but they had no such requirements. Special tank and Nitrox requests were hit and miss, the site briefings were limited to “Follow me,” and the boat was a sick joke. They young, new guy threw out a drift line with a 3# lead weight tied to each time we surfaced, but no one got hit. We made the best of it, but it was a challenge at times.

Everyone turned out Sunday for the first Check-out dive, so the DGs got a good idea of the various divers’ general abilities, but with shallow requirements and hard winds, the viz was so bad I couldn’t see any reason to get my camera out for a couple of days. There were no instructions on how to exit the water, but we all got out okay, and then it got messy. The waves were strong enough that I noticed them, but for those who had not been out on a boat in several months, or ever, and even one who had – the Puke Fest started and spread all around. I went back out for the next two dives of the day, but the boat was not crowded at all.

By Monday, the Captain was allowing the three instructors and me to wander off some, by days end – totally on our own, and we started getting below the particles by dipping into the canyons for our own explorations. Tuesday took us to The Blue Hole, with a short stop to replace a motor mount bolt en route, and I am here to tell ya’ – that is one impressive, albeit quick dive to 140-150 feet. I’ve never actually felt Narcosis exactly, but my thought process was taking more time and work at my 154 deepest, I know as I helped the DGs and Instructors keep the newer dives from missing the ledge in front of the cavern and falling off into the dark abyss below. I was on 28% Nx, with but a 19 cf Pony of air, and I knew I did not want to need to chase one below my Hard Bottom. Some of the Pros were on air, no one missed the ledge or the ascent. (See Near Accident Report: http://www.scubaboard.com/t61869.html )

Sharks, accustomed to being fed dive boats, escorted us up the dark wall, and soon we were all doing long Safety Stops on top of the white floored shallows. The viz was clear, and there were some interesting fishes, but the white bottom overwhelmed my camera. Lunch & a tour of the Booby Bird Reserve were next. I don’t know how long roasted chicken will stay good in Tupperware tubs at 80 degrees, but it smelled okay, and no one got sick again after the first day. We did two wall dives off of Lighthouse Reef, and turned for the long ride home.

Wednesday was essentially blown out. We did try snorkeling Ray Alley, but even that sucked, so most of us just rested up for other possibilities. The wind did die enough before sundown for a descent night dive in a channel, and we traded our lost dives in on a trip upgrade for the next day. The upgrade price did not calculate correctly from Aqua Dives price list, but such things happen when you’re a tourist, we all know. Thursday, we headed for Turneff Atoll and the Elbow dive and a couple of more nice wall dives. The last dive that day was my #200 logged, and one of the other divers used my camera to take my picture below; too bad she chopped off my thumbs-up.

Diving with “Pro Tech,” a much better alternative…

Friday was left free for optional tours, but with the first flight of significance not scheduled until 3pm Saturday, I went diving one more time. I had chatted with owner Roni here on SB, and he invited me to do a fun dive with him if we could get our schedules together. Phone tag had failed us late in the week, then the phone system was knocked out by a thunderstorm while we were at Turneff Atoll, so I just showed up there before they opened – hoping we were own, or something. And it worked out well…

We boarded his comfortable, well kept boat and headed out with his DM, Captain, and 4 tourist divers, but we took off on our own as soon as we back rolled into the water, dropping down into a canyon, then cruising out of it into another, and boy – that fellow can dive. He’s an accomplished Cave diver, and uses only a frog kick, but as leisurely as he coasted along, he was something to keep up with! We drifted along on 28% Nx in the 150+ foot range, and I did dip down to 162 just briefly before my SPG & both Puters started suggesting a slow, multi-level ascent could be a good idea. After two deep stops, I really thought that three minutes was enough for the shallow stop, but he likes five or six minutes, so we did. I still had 500# in my 80 cf, 3000# in my 19 cf Pony, and he had half a tank left if I wanted some his, so why not?

Roni had to split for Belize City after one dive, but he took time to show me his big boat almost ready for Blue Hole trips, and I just drooled over the obvious comforts as compared to the rough rider we’d crossed in twice that week. There was a huge equipment deck, a large bow visible to the Captain so riders could go forward during the trip – an option not available on our previous crossings, and a really nice, air conditioned dry area with bunks and a simple kitchen. I gotta’ to go back, just to ride and dive that boat.

I went back out with the regular crew and other divers for a second dive, and the DM cautioned the others: “This Texan is a Tech Diver, so don’t follow him.” I just smirked quietly, and stayed in his sight as I dipped down for the first half, then joining them in the shallows on the second. Truly a delightful morning experience to end a rough week, and I turned in for a nice siesta before the final dinner party.

The Last Supper…

Some of the guys had enjoyed good fortune on their boat fishing trip that morning, and arranged for a delightful cookout in the courtyard. They caught several nice size fishes, including – a couple of BARACUDA?! (See CDC: Ciguatera fish poisoning!) The natives said they ate them all the time, and some of our group did that night, but I stuck to the Wahoo & trimmings. It was a nice end to a nice week with a few rough edges, to be sure.

Homeward Bound…

Packing took up most of the morning, but I did sneak off for a little while to turn in my five gallon water bottle for my deposit refund and pick up some T-shirts for my expanding collection, and fond farewells were said to new friends as we started first the golf car shuttles of bags to the airport, then our group in threes and fours. Some of us toured the Chamber clinic while we waited, and then – our planes started arriving, this time 18 seaters! What luxury for the departure.

I’ve been back three days now, and I’m starting to get my land legs back again, not bracing for waves nearly as often, but – I AM READY TO GO AGAIN!!
 
Very nice report!

We know what you mean about having to take > 1 airplane to get anyplace! Too bad there's no "interesting" scuba out of Phoenix, Las Vegas, or DFW airports! :)
 
Hey Don,
Too bad you had such a bad time with Aqua Dives. I have read several post in which you said how bad they sucked but you never really said what they did. Did you complain to Aqua Dives? Maybe that would do some good. If thayt doesn't work give Neal Watson a call, he is part if not total owner.
I have dove with Aqua Dives a couple of times. The first time they were great, the second they were just ok. I have talked to some friends that dive with them regularly and my problems were not normal. They dive with them a couple of times a year.
I understand clomplaining about a bad trip but in every post?

Joe
 
Well, I did say this already:

We had to turn out with our gear early enough to be on the dock on time every morning, less we might get left behind, but they had no such requirements.
If I get up at 4:30 am, to make a 5:30 am boat, it's irritating to me for the boat to be an hour late.


Special tank and Nitrox requests were hit and miss, the site briefings were limited to “Follow me,” and the boat was a sick joke.
Most of all, I hated the boat. The front part was shaded for the long, rough rides to Atolls two days, but the skipper wouldn't let us sit forward. He wanted the weight aft. Had to stop on the way to Blue Hole to rebolt the engine to the boat. The dive gate was hanging on by one hinge. No camera bucket, no toilet paper in the head. A good fishing boat for a native, I'm sure.


They young, new guy threw out a drift line with a 3# lead weight tied to each time we surfaced, but no one got hit.
Also think it was he who turned the divers tank almost off for the Blue Hole; see accident report link.


There were no instructions on how to exit the water...
Each boat has its own protocols, and there's always newbies who have never done it before. There were no instructions, though.

That's enough for me to never go back.
 
So did you complain to them? What did they say?

Joe
 
scubajoe:
So did you complain to them? What did they say?

Joe

Any remarks to the skipper - any at all - were met with the kind of opposition that discourages a tourist. Pretty much a take it or leave it thing.

But I forgot to tell you about the Nitrox. I've arranged a discount deal with Pro Tech - rather than $15 a tank, only $10 if a diver bought a package covering all 16 dives. Five of us signed up and paid the first day.

After some of the divers missed dives from seasickness (see boat problems), and we were all blown out Wedensday, we traded the lost dives and upgraded to a Turneff Atoll trip for Thursday - for $25 more than their list prices. Anyway, we asked them to pick up all of our paid for Nitrox tanks for the last day, so we could offer them to trained divers who had not signed up. When they picked us up an hour late, they told us they picked up all that Pro Tech had read?! Knew better, but what can you do. Argue and become 2 hours late for a day trip.

Pro Tech tells me today that Aqua Dives still has 8 tanks that we paid for, but our skipper left at Aqua Dives. About $100 loss to us, and Aqua Dives is trying to sell them to other divers.

As so often the case, all a burned customer is take his next contract elsewhere, and tell his friends...
 
So you are saying you bought your Nitrox from another operator to save a few bucks? I got my nitrox from Aqua Dives and it was always there. I must be missing something here. I have never heard of bringing tanks from somewhere else to another dive operator. I'm not sure I would have worried too much about service if I was them either. If I'm missing something here fill me in. Did Aqua Dives lower their price since you brought your own gas?
I still maintain complaining to the manager or the owner of Aqua Dives would be much more productive.
Joe
 
scubajoe:
So you are saying you bought your Nitrox from another operator to save a few bucks? I got my nitrox from Aqua Dives and it was always there. I must be missing something here. I have never heard of bringing tanks from somewhere else to another dive operator. I'm not sure I would have worried too much about service if I was them either. If I'm missing something here fill me in. Did Aqua Dives lower their price since you brought your own gas?
I still maintain complaining to the manager or the owner of Aqua Dives would be much more productive.
Joe

No, Joe. Pro Tech is the only Nx provider in Belize, and they negotiated the deal with Aqua Dives.

What I am saying is:

(1) The Aqua Dives skipper told us he would, but didn't bother;

(2) He lied about it;

(3) And now Aqua Dives still has the tanks 2 weeks later...

You're right, though. Even though the trip is past, and damages cannot be undone, I should contact try to contact the manager. I will email Aqua Dives, but not hold my breath.
 
I had no idea where the Nitrox we used came from but it was always there just as we ordered it. And it was pretty much on the money as far as O2 percentage goes. Seems like it was only $10 a tank as well.

Joe
 
scubajoe:
I had no idea where the Nitrox we used came from but it was always there just as we ordered it. And it was pretty much on the money as far as O2 percentage goes. Seems like it was only $10 a tank as well.

Joe

Thank you Joe, I am happy to hear it.
Our Nitrox production system is build around Oxygen Generator, and the system provide very accurate mixes.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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