happy-diver
Skindiver Just feelin it
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Rust in steel tank
- Thread starter Walde
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I have a regulator hooked up to a tank with a cut off second stage hose. The dip tube fits nicely into hose, and that will blow it all out in seconds.
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similar but mine is an old compressor hose with a yoke fill end on it so it's straight from the tank. Parts scavenged from the back of the dive locker before they were being thrown away
happy-diver
Skindiver Just feelin it
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I've been getting one of these for years
maybe this year
Cylinder Valve Stand 3/4" 14 NPSM
This heavy-duty 304 stainless steel valve stand is designed to accept valves with 3/4" 14 NPSM threaded valve stems. The valve stand can be: mounted on the bench (either directly or by using our SCT-1019 Modular Valve Stand Fixture) to create a stable platform for cylinder valve service (the...
scuba-clinic-tools.com
maybe this year
This type of rust splatter in the very bottom is often due to hooking up the whip without blowing out the valve first. Few drops of high corrosive salty water does more damage sitting there than you'd think. I fill my own and rarely see this problem but I dont whip tanks. I use dilute phosphoric acid to clean up any surface rust like this, rinse and dry and done. Whipping leaves a fine rust dust on the interior which you need to rinse and dry out anyway.
SubseaSports
Contributor
rjack321 nailed it for the most common reason.
I also use the phosphoric acid method to clean tanks and would likely do so in a case like this. There are a few good write ups here that cover it...its easy. If the rust is limited to the bottom, no tumbler needed.
I generally use a whip first though to assess the extent of the rust. This also cuts down on time using the phosphoric acid in the long run.
I have made whips out of SS cable and even weedeater line (yes it works .. for light stuff). Settled on aluminum oxide bristles which work very well at low rpm's. No need for thread protectors (aluminum rod), that is what your weak hand is for. These will fit in 1/2" vintage tanks as well (5/8" od max).
I also use the phosphoric acid method to clean tanks and would likely do so in a case like this. There are a few good write ups here that cover it...its easy. If the rust is limited to the bottom, no tumbler needed.
I generally use a whip first though to assess the extent of the rust. This also cuts down on time using the phosphoric acid in the long run.
I have made whips out of SS cable and even weedeater line (yes it works .. for light stuff). Settled on aluminum oxide bristles which work very well at low rpm's. No need for thread protectors (aluminum rod), that is what your weak hand is for. These will fit in 1/2" vintage tanks as well (5/8" od max).
runsongas
Contributor
some quick shotblasting with walnut shells also does the trick
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