Review: Whites Fusion Drysuit - say goodbye to cave cut

[*Floater*]

I tried on a Fusion recently (on land) and the fit was great, front zipper was easy on and off, mobility was excellent. Is there a catch?

I thought the advantage of custom-cut trilams (for comparison) was less excess bag, and hence fewer wrinkles to trap air, cause rigidity and reduce streamlining. With the Fusion, the wrinkles are still there on the inner bag (unless the bag fits like a custom suit). The exterior skin pulls the wrinkles in, but it does not eliminate them. However, underwater the water pressure will squeeze the suit in, so I don't see how the outer lycra skin would make a big difference in that regard, at least not as far as air traps are concerned. (Better streamlining I can see)

As for mobility, the suit (interior bag + exterior lycra) felt light compared to my Bare Nex-Gen Pro, for example, not to mention my 3mm compressed neoprene O'Neill, so of course it was also more flexible. But if it's lighter, wouldn't is be less durable as well?

I plan to try out (dive with) a friend's Fusion sometime in the near future (which happens to fit perfectly by the way), so I'll have first hand experience soon if all goes well, but for now I have my doubts.

 

[*Floater*]

I am gonna sew on some dive rite zipper pockets as I am sick of velcro sticking to gloves and the suits. I dive cold water so dry gloves with thick liners or 7mm wet gloves are required almost year round below 20' and fumbling with velcro that sticks to everything is a pain and Dive rite came out with those new pockets that look pretty nice so I got a pair and intend to attach as soon as the suit arrives.

I use X-shorts with my 3mm compressed neoprene suit + both wet- and drygloves. I've never had a problem with the velcro sticking to anything (neoprene, latex?) it was not supposed to stick to. The only thing I can imagine is that it would stick to the velcro closure points on a Fusion suit's wrists, but if that's the problem why not just cover them with something, like thin neoprene cuff rings? My OS Systems dry glove rings came with those anyway to protect the seals (Neoprene overcuffs @ $6 for a pair), but you could just as well make them yourself from an old warm water wetsuit, for example. i.e. cut off 2 slices of a sleeve or leg and use those over the wrist velcro and seals too.

 

[potablewater]

I use X-shorts with my 3mm compressed neoprene suit + both wet- and drygloves. I've never had a problem with the velcro sticking to anything (neoprene, latex?) it was not supposed to stick to. The only thing I can imagine is that it would stick to the velcro closure points on a Fusion suit's wrists, but if that's the problem why not just cover them with something, like thin neoprene cuff rings? My OS Systems dry glove rings came with those anyway to protect the seals (Neoprene overcuffs @ $6 for a pair), but you could just as well make them yourself from an old warm water wetsuit, for example. i.e. cut off 2 slices of a sleeve or leg and use those over the wrist velcro and seals too.

I've now dived the Fusion suit with Tech skin about a dozen times. I wear XS Scubas 7mil "Heat" gloves, and I carry the Diverite wet notes in the left pocket with a spare mask on top of that. Right pocket contains a spool and my car key, each clipped with double end snaps individually to the bungee line I installed inside and through the "bungee holes" on the top of the pocket. Now, I have NEVER had the neoprene gloves stick to the velcro on the pockets. I did have to figure a method and then practice extracting the wetnotes, and then slide them back underneath the spare mask when finished, but no problem. Extracting the mask is easy, and probably would not need to be restored to pocket as you obviously lost your primary mask. But as a drill, I had no trouble sliding it back into the pocket on top of the wetnotes. I think the pockets are plenty big, and i could put a lot more into the right pocket. The velcro at the wrist connecting the skin to the bilam is not exposed if it is installed correctly, thus not a sticky issue.
The Fusion is a great suit in so many ways. I highly recommend it.
Let me add, I am tough on my suit and it has performed flawlessly.

(As always...Thanks Mike! @ diverightinscuba.com):2ar15smil

All the best,
Geoff

 

[*Floater*]

I plan to try out (dive with) a friend's Fusion sometime in the near future (which happens to fit perfectly by the way), so I'll have first hand experience soon if all goes well, but for now I have my doubts.

Got to try one last weekend.

Short version: This would be the suit I'd buy if I didn't have 2 drysuits already (not coincidentally, my Bare Nex-Gen Pro is now for sale. it's size is MLTall, which is too big for me).

Longer version: I felt like I was wearing the perfectly fitting shell suit for the whole dive and had zero problems with it. It was light and flexible.

I'm 6' and currently 160#. I was using Carol Davis (style 3) polartec power stretch base layer with xerotherm arctics on top. The suit was LG/XL, which per size chart is for someone 5'09" to 6'01" and 160-210#, but it felt the way I imagine a custom cut would feel. I cannot imagine squeezing in there with substantially thicker undies or another 50# on my frame... If anything, I was wondering if the suit was big enough for me.

If I bought one, I'd stick with X-shorts. I might opt for a cuff dump over the shoulder dump (just personal preference), and perhaps a neoprene neck seals.

My only questions are about maintenance and repair:

1. How much are Whites replacement wrist and neck seals?

2. Can you order them online anywhere?

3. How much does their repair kit cost?
(3.5. Does anyone know where to buy a battery powered heat gun for quick repairs on a dive boat?)

4. What adhesives do they use?

5. Would there be an issue if I wanted to install Dive-Rite heavy duty latex seals instead of Whites seals?

 

[Dive Right In Scuba]

Im 6'3" and 195 and wear a L/XL that Im getting rid of(make your offers-has 4 dives) its just too short in the torso and I can feel it in the crotch. Other than that, there is plenty of room. I think the reason you dont think you can have anything thicker, is what makes the suit so great. It FITS and is FLEXIBLE! You would be fine with a thicker undergarment or 50#s extra.

Replacement wrist and neck seals- We sell replacements, are you going to install it yourself? They do make a Neck seal with the adhesive already on- but to be honest, I would just take or send it to be repaired.....

The Whites repair kit is $34

You could install different wrist seals if you want, but the ones they have on there are pretty tough- but we also sell the heavy duty ones- but I wouldnt install until your old ones rip

 

[TSandM]

The wrist seals seem pretty darned durable -- They're surviving my Viking glove rings beautifully (and those rings have been known to eat less robust seals). I do wish I could put a neoprene neck seal on the suit, though, and when this seal fails, I'll look further into that.

 

[Dive Right In Scuba]

Sorry for the delay, I have sold quite a few of these, and just put them on the website...

DS Patchkit:
Dive Right In Scuba

 

[TSandM]

Now, what I was told at my local White's dealer was that the repair kit is only for the material of the suit, not for the seals, right?

 

[Dive Right In Scuba]

Correct.....Duct tape was made for the seals

 

[*Floater*]

Replacement wrist and neck seals- We sell replacements, are you going to install it yourself? They do make a Neck seal with the adhesive already on- but to be honest, I would just take or send it to be repaired.....

I'd replace them myself, but I'd like to know the cost of the Whites neck and wrist seals?

Here's what the instruction manual on Whites' site says:

Obtain a latex seal kit from your Whites Dealer. What you need: Whites Latex Seal Kit, sharp scissors, acetone (or similar product), clean cloth, plastic container (with the same circumference as wrist or ankle opening of suit), hot air source (heat gun or hair dryer), small roller.

1 Turn sleeve/ankle/neck inside out and carefully cut off damaged seal (cut just below seam created when latex seal was originally sewn to the suit).
2 With suit inside out, insert plastic container into wrist or ankle so a portion of the
container is exposed past the cuff edge (must be a snug fit).
For necks, lay the opening over a large ball.
3 Take a strip of the dry adhesive tape and remove the paper from one side.
4 Take your cloth, wet with acetone, and wipe clean the suit surface around the cuff perimeter. Immediately after this, wipe the exposed adhesive on the tape strip.
5 Now wrap tape around edge of cuff. As you make the full wrap, peel off final layer of release paper, and overlap adhesive film so there is no exposed suit material on the cuff edge.
6 Wipe acetone over the exposed adhesive film.
7 Now carefully lift and stretch latex seal over plastic tub and cover/overlap the adhesive film. Have at least 1" (2.5 cm) overlap between seal and suit cuff.
8 Apply heat to seal at adhesive point. Use extreme caution! Keep moving the heat around and do not focus it at any one point for an extended period of time. Don't melt a hole in your suit! [Tip: Exposed adhesive film will go clear around top edge of seal when suffi ciently heated.]
9 Using a small roller or your thumbs, press the seal around the new connection to ensure a solid bond. Don't burn your fingers!
10 Allow to cool for 15 minutes and inspect your bond with a good "tug". Adhesive bond should be holding to both surfaces. If bond is not secure, repeat heat process and inspect bond again. Let set for 24 hours to ensure the best bond.

Pics from manual attached, but the whole thing seems a lot easier than my current (first ever) seal replacement project that included first finding out what adhesives I'm supposed to use, then cutting off stitches, picking out old Aquaseal patching, blowing with hair dryer to get tape and other adhesives of,f and sanding/filing/cotol-ing the damn thing in an attempt to get a clean site for the new seal...