REVIEW: CREE MC-E Diving Light

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You know- I am not so sure. The end cap came off easily to install the batteries, but I tried turning the head and couldn't get it to budge. My impression was, it isn't designed to come apart. I was afraid to try and force it, for fear of comprimising the waterproof-ness of the light.


It definitely comes apart. I took mine all apart tonight, trying to figure out if I can turn the standby into an off. If you grab the light above the switch with a rubber strap wrench the barrel will come off. Then I wrapped a 3/4" pipe with a rag and used it with a little pressure to twist off the lens and driver.

The driver looks like it is sealed in the reflector pretty good. I didn't try to un-solder it. yet!

Once the Standby bothers me enough I will !!.

What is your thoughts on the Standby?? Is that annoying? It isn't like an LED needs to warm up it is just a waste of power.

Otherwise I agree it is the brightest light that was on our dive last night. My IST from Packhorse still has a tighter beam, but is not as bright.

Greg
 
It definitely comes apart. I took mine all apart tonight, trying to figure out if I can turn the standby into an off. If you grab the light above the switch with a rubber strap wrench the barrel will come off. Then I wrapped a 3/4" pipe with a rag and used it with a little pressure to twist off the lens and driver.

The driver looks like it is sealed in the reflector pretty good. I didn't try to un-solder it. yet!

Once the Standby bothers me enough I will !!.

What is your thoughts on the Standby?? Is that annoying? It isn't like an LED needs to warm up it is just a waste of power.

Otherwise I agree it is the brightest light that was on our dive last night. My IST from Packhorse still has a tighter beam, but is not as bright.

Greg

I took standby to mean it was off... U think it still drains power any more than any other light with batteries in and in the off position? I don't mind the switch, in fact it probably is harder to accidentally activate than most other rocking type switches. As far as standby goes, It seems to give plenty of burn time, and other than my back-up lights, I never store dive lights with the batteries in them, anyways. Impressive you took it apart tho- I saw another pic of it torn down, but wasn't willing to force it. I would be interested to know what, if any mods you end up performing and how well you like it.
 
Buccaneer, how is the goodman style handle coming? If I remember correctly, you were getting a budy to make one for you for this light?
 
Yeah, he is making it from stainless steel. Since it is for free, and sort of a side project, there is a little bit of delay. I should have it in about another week. Unfortunately, he is out of town right now so things got delayed longer than expected. As soon as I get it, I will post some pics
 
I took standby to mean it was off... U think it still drains power any more than any other light with batteries in and in the off position? I don't mind the switch, in fact it probably is harder to accidentally activate than most other rocking type switches. As far as standby goes, It seems to give plenty of burn time, and other than my back-up lights, I never store dive lights with the batteries in them, anyways. Impressive you took it apart tho- I saw another pic of it torn down, but wasn't willing to force it. I would be interested to know what, if any mods you end up performing and how well you like it.

I would have thought standby was off as well, except I left it on my counter an noticed that when it was dark the LED was glowing. So curiosity struck me and it is pulling .03mA's when in standby. Not a lot by any means but will drain the battery eventually. The back of the box said to remove the batteries when not in use for long periods. Just seems like a waste of energy to me.

My other lights have no current draw when off.

I am still impressed with the light. Just seems like an odd feature on a light.

I mean off should be off, not kinda off!!
 
Any opinions about the quality and reliability of the magnetic switch?
Has anyone taken pictures of the internal construction of the Magnetic switch/driver board?
Is the magnetic switch purely mechanical and carries the entire LED current, or does it only control the driver board via low current?
 
Any opinions about the quality and reliability of the magnetic switch?
Has anyone taken pictures of the internal construction of the Magnetic switch/driver board?
Is the magnetic switch purely mechanical and carries the entire LED current, or does it only control the driver board via low current?

If I get some time tonight I will get some pics for you.
 
Thanks!
I wonder if any of the electronics gurus here have taken a look at the driver and magnetic switch.
I've heard in the past about magnetic switches sticking, but IIRC, it happened because of excessive current running through them in Halogen lights applications (which have a high initial current), causing arcing and sticking in "on" position. So I wonder how reliable the circuit here is expected to be (my impression - should be higher, because LEDs don't have the high startup current). This light is too new anyway to get any field data, so I'll keep an open ear here on this thread for more user feedback.
 
I just got my light from Deal Extreme in Hong Kong - it came with s pair of rechargeable Li-Ion batteries and fits nicely in an Oxycheq Raider III light sock so you don't have to mess with fabricating a Goodman handle.
At the low setting, it's brighter than my Intova 3-watters. I'm not wild about the rotating light switch, but that's how it comes. All in all, one helluva light for under $100.
Oxycheq Raider Light Sock (Raider III) [ROLL-02-03] - $20.80 : Cave Adventurers!, We will NOT be undersold!!!
 

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