Reserve Lights

[jtivat]

I have flooded many a scout/UK so I don't twist it "off" that far. Now they get turned on from pressure since I keep them close to the on position. Good in concept, but not always good in reality. Always expensive.

-matt

Never heard of a Photon Torpedo or Salvo Rat flooding also neither of them has any issue with turning on at depth. The only way a good double o-ring light could flood is with something getting on the o-rings like a hair.

 

[rjack321]

I tried dropping the SL4 module in one of my scout lights and it did not work, the module looks taller than whats in the scout. I would be interested in hearing from someone who has got this to work.

I have 2 in miniscouts and 1 in a 3cell scout. I'm not sure your problem but if you post a picture maybe we can help.

 

[PfcAJ]

I have flooded many a scout/UK so I don't twist it "off" that far. Now they get turned on from pressure since I keep them close to the on position. Good in concept, but not always good in reality. Always expensive.

-matt

I would check your methods here. I've not had a scout flood (ever) and since I learned the right amount to twist them off (and check it pre-dive), I have had an accidental switch-on maybe once or twice.

 

[BB1]

They need to be reversed also you need to insulate the side of the module with some electrical tape.

Why the need to insulate the side and does this apply to LED drop-ins for the scouts??

 

[rjack321]

Why the need to insulate the side and does this apply to LED drop-ins for the scouts??

Because if you bump them sideways the module can move laterally and connect with the metallic strip running down the inside of the light tube. It can then turn on without any bezel twisting at all. Its pretty obvious in practice.

 

[BB1]

Thanks!

That's because the module is a smaller diameter isn't it?

I intend machining a small aluminium spacer to the correct outside diameter and with the correct recess and then taper to match the outside of the dropin.

This should hopefully mean I dont need tape........

 

[rjack321]

Thanks!

That's because the module is a smaller diameter isn't it?

I intend machining a small aluminium spacer to the correct outside diameter and with the correct recess and then taper to match the outside of the dropin.

This should hopefully mean I dont need tape........

No its because the metallic strip down the inside of the tube can contact the side of module & complete the circuit not just on the end. As a conductor your aluminum spacer filling what is a tiny air gap now will just make the problem worse. The metal strip needs about 2cm of electrical tape wrapped around the end leaving just the tip exposed.

 

[BB1]

I think I know what you mean - I'll pull my scout apart again tonight to conform.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[HenrikBP]

I intend machining a small aluminium spacer to the correct outside diameter and with the correct recess and then taper to match the outside of the dropin.

This should hopefully mean I dont need tape........

An AL spacer will - if sized correctly - make the drop-in very secure in the light head as well as add some heat sink to the module. Sounds like a nice project. Please post pictures.

rjack is correct though, a bit of tape on the "wire" in the body is good "insurance".

I haven't had the light turn on with my DIY drop-ins, but will add tape now.

Henrik

 

[Blow.Fish]

I'm fairly certain that you can take your SL4 module out of the SL4 body and drop it directly into a Scout 3 C-cell body. As long as the Scout body came with the spring/wire "thingy" you should be good to go.

I don't recall if you leave the batteries in the original orientation (I think so...?) or if you have to flip the batteries around. Maybe someone can chime in and clear that up.

Thanks again for reply. Does anyone make/sell Scout 3C style bodies. Again, the goal being an economical retrofit path of existing stock SL4 light.