Reserve Lights

[HenrikBP]

Then lets look at the heat syncing issue these delrin bodys do not transfer heat like aluminum. A backup may need to run for long periods of time where is all that heat going to go?

The thing I can't figure out is why any real tech diver would cheap out on items that could save there life.

The heat sink issue is the same for any LED insert in the Scout body - "H" as well as DIY hacks.

As an anedoctal piece of info: I've run my R2 insert in a 3 C-cell Scout body for 15 - 20 hour long dives, and it's still going strong and brighter than any similar light I've compared it to.

I never claimed to be a "real" tech diver and for those of use still working on purchasing/gathering gear, saving a considerable chunk of change (for gear, diving, training) and still get a serviceable light for my current level of diving. Well, makes sense to me.

Henrik

 

[jtivat]

The heat sink issue is the same for any LED insert in the Scout body - "H" as well as DIY hacks.

As an anedoctal piece of info: I've run my R2 insert in a 3 C-cell Scout body for 15 - 20 hour long dives, and it's still going strong and brighter than any similar light I've compared it to.

I never claimed to be a "real" tech diver and for those of use still working on purchasing/gathering gear, saving a considerable chunk of change (for gear, diving, training) and still get a serviceable light for my current level of diving. Well, makes sense to me.

Henrik

Yup that makes sense to me as well. I in fact modded a UK eLED in a Photon Torpedo a few years back. It was very bright and I great light but I did not use inside wrecks. It did fail a few weeks ago and I think it was heat but have not taken it apart yet.

 

[HenrikBP]

I'd be interested in what you find when you get a chance to take that module out for a look.

Henrik

 

[Blow.Fish]

I believe the SL4 modules are direct replacements. Of course UK charges almost the same for a module as they do for the whole light But you could buy the light and just switch modules.

Thanks for the reply. My question was actually about buying a scout style body. For example, assume you already own an SL4 light and you would like to convert it to a scout 3C style. Is it possible to keep the existing module/head and just buy a new body ? If so, are there any other parts required (i.e. spring ...etc) ?

 

[HenrikBP]

assume you already own an SL4 light and you would like to convert it to a scout 3C style. Is it possible to keep the existing module/head and just buy a new body ? If so, are there any other parts required (i.e. spring ...etc) ?

I'm fairly certain that you can take your SL4 module out of the SL4 body and drop it directly into a Scout 3 C-cell body. As long as the Scout body came with the spring/wire "thingy" you should be good to go.

I don't recall if you leave the batteries in the original orientation (I think so...?) or if you have to flip the batteries around. Maybe someone can chime in and clear that up.

Henrik

 

[berk]

The thing I can't figure out is why any real tech diver would cheap out on items that could save there life. To do one big dive you are looking at over $100 in fills that's $400 just for back/deco gas for a weekend not to mention charter fee's or fuel if you own the boat. Then somehow $150 for a light that will last many years is too much money???

Something just does not add up.

Sometimes cheap doesn't mean crappy. The best backups I've ever had: the old style TEC40's

Princeton Tec T40-OM-NY Tec-40 Overmold, Neon Yellow at OutdoorPros.com

I have flooded many a scout/UK so I don't twist it "off" that far. Now they get turned on from pressure since I keep them close to the on position. Good in concept, but not always good in reality. Always expensive.

-matt

 

[WVMike]

I'm fairly certain that you can take your SL4 module out of the SL4 body and drop it directly into a Scout 3 C-cell body. As long as the Scout body came with the spring/wire "thingy" you should be good to go.

I don't recall if you leave the batteries in the original orientation (I think so...?) or if you have to flip the batteries around. Maybe someone can chime in and clear that up.

Henrik

I tried dropping the SL4 module in one of my scout lights and it did not work, the module looks taller than whats in the scout. I would be interested in hearing from someone who has got this to work.

 

[HenrikBP]

I tried dropping the SL4 module in one of my scout lights and it did not work, the module looks taller than whats in the scout. I would be interested in hearing from someone who has got this to work.

Did you try reversing the batteries? Or did you run into a "space" issue?

I haven't done that particular swap myself, but I believe Lynne did ...?

I've only seen and measured the old Scout Halogen module, and I believe the height is about 26-27 mm, so just over an inch, with the solid "rim" at the front of the module being about 8 mm thick. Numbers are from memory, so don't hold me to it

Henrik

 

[WVMike]

Did you try reversing the batteries? Or did you run into a "space" issue?

I haven't done that particular swap myself, but I believe Lynne did ...?

I've only seen and measured the old Scout Halogen module, and I believe the height is about 26-27 mm, so just over an inch, with the solid "rim" at the front of the module being about 8 mm thick. Numbers are from memory, so don't hold me to it

Henrik

It all went back together, just no burn. I did not try reversing the batteries. Will try that. Didn't put a whole lot of time into it.

 

[jtivat]

It all went back together, just no burn. I did not try reversing the batteries. Will try that. Didn't put a whole lot of time into it.

They need to be reversed also you need to insulate the side of the module with some electrical tape.