REbuilding tank valves

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

learningday

Registered
Scuba Instructor
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
East Coast USA
Lots of stuff on the internet about it from various threads/web pages. Clean the valve, replace the parts from the kit, lube parts with 111, or Not to lube that is the question...

Any input on this for simple K valves? Thank you in advance.
 
If the part moves, it needs a little lube. The operative word is "little".

Additionally, the reason for using a dielectric lube like 111 is to minimize bimetallic corrosion. To be of use for this purpose, a thin coat should be applied anywhere the metal of the valve touches the cylinder. This includes the valve threads and the base of the valve body whee it seals against the cylinder.
 
The make of valve will also determine if you need to lube it internaly as well. For example the sherwood valves don't have any orings inside, and so they don't require any lube. Where as most other valves have at least 1 oring some have 2 or more. If the oring is a dynamic one then it requires lube.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom