Rebuild kit suppliers

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Coo's Toe:
Where are you getting Scubapro rebuild parts? I've been searching for a while, and still haven't found a source. Can you help?


Forgive me for picking this up again, but nobody answered this question...I found it on a search... Aside from that teckdiver guy who sells kits of Ebay (always a possibility & I may go that route), is anyone willing to PM me with a source for rebuild kits for my Mk10 and Mk25 at a decent price?

Thanks.

Kevin
 
Current specs for the swivel cap retainer on the MK 20 and Mk 25 call for 70 inch pounds (5.8 ft pounds) on the brass bodied first stages but only 35 inch pounds on the ultralight first stages. To use a torque wrench you obviously need a socket ending in a 7/32 allen head.

One thing about torque wrenches is that they are only really accurate in the middle third of the range, so you end up needing 2 wrenchs to do a good job on a reg.

In the abscence of a torque wrench and a suitable allen head socket, you are far better off tightening the swivel retainer cap by feel with a T-handled allen wrench than by trying to use a ratchet and socket.

The SP specs for the Mk 20 and 25 also indicate you should be torquing the seat retainer to 130 inch pounds and the yoke retainer nut to 266 inch pounds and, on DIN regs, the filter retainer to 35 inch pounds.

The yoke retainer is pretty important as it is both easily over torqued and also at high risk of coming loose if inadequately torqued. Every tech should be using a torque wrench on this. But every now and then I encounter a reg where this nut has been badly over torqued and can be very difficult to remove when the excessive torque is combined with a couple years of corrosion.

SP uses the phrase "tool tight" for things like HP and LP plugs as well as for the cap itself and this gets extended by many techs to things like the seat retainer and swivel cap retainers.

To be honest, I do not get overly concerned about torquing the swivel cap retainer on the brass bodied regs if I am doing something in the field. If you are using a T-handled allen wrench on this item and have some experience you are extremely unlikely to break anything (unless you are conan the barbarian), will have a very good feel for how things are progressing and, with adequate experience, you will get it torqued close to the mark as the torquing of the allen wrench itself is in fact a simple torque indicator. This is probably the most fragile part in the reg and I tend to think that there is also a risk of a torque wrench failing to release, or more often of the operator failing to notice the release at the low pressures involved are more of a risk than doing it by feel with a T-handled allen wrench.

And if you look at it, the 3 ft lb torque used in the aluminum regs is adeqaute to hold things together so on the brass bodied regs you really have a fairly wide 3 to 6 ft lb range to land in and the biggest risk is that of over torquing which can happen accidently with a torque wrench at the low settings involved particularly outside a shop setting.
 
Thanks very much for your very thoughtful and detailed reply. IF I were a daily user of a torque wrench then I imagine I would feel comfortable using an ordinary wrench by feel when a specific torqe spec was called for. However, this is NOT the case for me. Nor do I ever expect to develop the appropriate level of experience. And so, I feel it's imparative for ME to use a torque wrench.
It's my impression that many reg techs do NOT bother to use a torque wrench. I just don't get this. And I don't see my way clear to having my reg serviced by someone who I don't KNOW IS using a torque wrench.
My 1'st use was a failure as a consequence of my own ignorance. But I learned a lot for very little because I ripped the head off the swivel connector. I agree with you that there is a risk of error in the "click" type wrenches. I was perfectly ignorant the first time I used this type; but, now, I don't think I'd use this type - it's just too vulnerable to user error. I've purchased 2 dial type wrench and a 0-30 and a 0-250 and an old-fashioned pointer type 0-70. Among these I should have pretty good range and the ability to cross-check the wrenches to see if they seem to agree.
I didn't know about the 35"/lbs on the "ultra-light"; I imagine you must be speaking of hte titanium. Subsequently, I've picked-up the MK25T/S00T so this is useful information. (Incidently, my seller told me he had it overhauled by SP but it came back not working. He had it overhauled again by a LDS and it was fine. I assume it's OK; but I'll want to overhaul it myself in a year or two.)
I imagine you must be a reg tech. Seems to be a fair amount of intereset in finding a back-channel source for rebuild kits. Are you in a position to provide a regular supply anonomously? If so, would you be interested in promoting a market for DIYers who want to do thier own rebuilds?

Karl

DA Aquamaster:
Current specs for the swivel cap retainer on the MK 20 and Mk 25 call for 70 inch pounds (5.8 ft pounds) on the brass bodied first stages but only 35 inch pounds on the ultralight first stages. To use a torque wrench you obviously need a socket ending in a 7/32 allen head.

One thing about torque wrenches is that they are only really accurate in the middle third of the range, so you end up needing 2 wrenchs to do a good job on a reg.

In the abscence of a torque wrench and a suitable allen head socket, you are far better off tightening the swivel retainer cap by feel with a T-handled allen wrench than by trying to use a ratchet and socket.

The SP specs for the Mk 20 and 25 also indicate you should be torquing the seat retainer to 130 inch pounds and the yoke retainer nut to 266 inch pounds and, on DIN regs, the filter retainer to 35 inch pounds.

The yoke retainer is pretty important as it is both easily over torqued and also at high risk of coming loose if inadequately torqued. Every tech should be using a torque wrench on this. But every now and then I encounter a reg where this nut has been badly over torqued and can be very difficult to remove when the excessive torque is combined with a couple years of corrosion.

SP uses the phrase "tool tight" for things like HP and LP plugs as well as for the cap itself and this gets extended by many techs to things like the seat retainer and swivel cap retainers.

To be honest, I do not get overly concerned about torquing the swivel cap retainer on the brass bodied regs if I am doing something in the field. If you are using a T-handled allen wrench on this item and have some experience you are extremely unlikely to break anything (unless you are conan the barbarian), will have a very good feel for how things are progressing and, with adequate experience, you will get it torqued close to the mark as the torquing of the allen wrench itself is in fact a simple torque indicator. This is probably the most fragile part in the reg and I tend to think that there is also a risk of a torque wrench failing to release, or more often of the operator failing to notice the release at the low pressures involved are more of a risk than doing it by feel with a T-handled allen wrench.

And if you look at it, the 3 ft lb torque used in the aluminum regs is adeqaute to hold things together so on the brass bodied regs you really have a fairly wide 3 to 6 ft lb range to land in and the biggest risk is that of over torquing which can happen accidently with a torque wrench at the low settings involved particularly outside a shop setting.
 
Don't know, but seems like there is some interest in finding a supply. I'm going to nose around a little and see if I can find somebody.
Karl
Kncaffrey:
Forgive me for picking this up again, but nobody answered this question...I found it on a search... Aside from that teckdiver guy who sells kits of Ebay (always a possibility & I may go that route), is anyone willing to PM me with a source for rebuild kits for my Mk10 and Mk25 at a decent price?

Thanks.

Kevin
 
Karl Marx:
Don't know, but seems like there is some interest in finding a supply. I'm going to nose around a little and see if I can find somebody.
Karl

Good to hear. Let me know if you come up with anything.

Kevin
 
Karl Marx:
Now, the really interesting part of thestory. I've discussed my experience with two scuba reg techs. Both told me that they didn't bother to use a torque wrench. One told me that he has never ripped-off the head of this bolt; the other said he has done so occasionally.
If the second guy has ripped-off the head of the bolt occasionally, how many times has he used too much pressure, butnot quite ripped-off the head? Maybe never. Maybe he only uses just the right amount of pressure, or enough more such that the head breaks.
Karl

Ok, the reply is a bit late. You might want to know though. Last friday during training in the swimming pool a buddy of mine blew up his MK20/MK25 1st stage when opening the cylinder. Cylinder contained 200 bar, whereas the regulator was upgraded for 300 bar. It originally was an MK20 but upgraded to MK25.

There was a small explosion. Remarkably and fortunatelly, the turret wasn't lauched through the roof (or through the head of my buddy). He could immediatelly close the cylinder. The hollow bolt holding the turret was sheared off apparently...
 
A good reminder that overhauling a regulator isn't just a matter of throwing in a parts kit, but also involves careful inspection of the parts.

SP turret bolts will usually show it if they have been overtightened, by lengthening and waisting at the point of maximum stress. So if the tech examines the bolt carefully before reusing it, and doesn't overtighten it himself, the bolt should be fine at least until the next service.

The turrent is only seeing intermediate pressure, so it probably wouldn't have made it through the roof, or his head. Which is not to say it wouldn't hurt.

ScubaJorgen:
There was a small explosion. Remarkably and fortunatelly, the turret wasn't lauched through the roof (or through the head of my buddy). He could immediatelly close the cylinder. The hollow bolt holding the turret was sheared off apparently...
 
I too would like to know more about my equipment. I would feel better if I could service my own regs. Last week, my wife and I were diving at Lake Mead, and her secondary 2nd stage reg was leaking. It probably is an easy fix if you know what your doing. Point being, I'm a machinist and I'm sure I have the ability to service my own regs if I had access to repair parts and a service manual. I would appreciate any info on manuals and rebuild kits.

Thanks,
Steve
 
SteveC:
I too would like to know more about my equipment. I would feel better if I could service my own regs. Last week, my wife and I were diving at Lake Mead, and her secondary 2nd stage reg was leaking. It probably is an easy fix if you know what your doing. Point being, I'm a machinist and I'm sure I have the ability to service my own regs if I had access to repair parts and a service manual. I would appreciate any info on manuals and rebuild kits.

Thanks,
Steve

Click on the link in the post above yours and you will have a good start to answering all your questions. Only a few mfgrs support the sale of part to end users and the custom in shops is not to make such sales. But, when you are ready and have a specific brand & model, you can usually find parts somewhere. Some, like Scubapro, are much easier to find than others, like Atomic.

And your are right, the problem with your wifes reg may well have been a simple adjustment almost any diver could do in a couple minutes with simple tool - if he knew how.
 

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