Question regarding HP tank and DIN/YOKE

[PuyallupCoug]

I'm still pretty new to diving and am looking at purchasing an HP 119 steel tank soon.

I'm assuming that tank comes with a DIN valve for the higher pressure. If I do get that tank, I'm assuming I need to purchase a DIN compatible regulator.

What happens though if say down the road, I take my DIN style regulator and bring it on a trip and decide to rent a few Yoke style AL80's. What options do I have?

Is it better to buy a yoke style regulator and purchase a DIN conversion for it or purchase a DIN style regulator and purchase a yoke conversion.

Thanks for your help because I'm a

 

[mike_s]

not all HP tanks come with DIN only valves.

a lot of them now days are "convertible DIN/Yoke". which means it's yoke and you unscrew an insert to use it as DIN.

Most of these valves are rated for 3442psi. But they are a perfect match for the new HP 3442psi tanks that Worthing and Faber sell.

see pic. Yoke Insert screws out with a Hex allen wrench on standard DIN threads.

as for regulators, if you want to be able to use DIN, better to purchase a DIN reg and pick up a yoke convertor for $25 to $40 bucks. most new ones are closer to the $40 range but some upwards to $75 for fancier brand name logos on them.

 

[PuyallupCoug]

not all HP tanks come with DIN only valves.

a lot of them now days are "convertible DIN/Yoke". which means it's yoke and you unscrew an insert to use it as DIN.

Most of these valves are rated for 3442psi. But they are a perfect match for the new HP 3442psi tanks that Worthing and Faber sell.

see pic. Yoke Insert screws out with a Hex allen wrench on standard DIN threads.

as for regulators, if you want to be able to use DIN, better to purchase a DIN reg and pick up a yoke convertor for $25 to $40 bucks. most new ones are closer to the $40 range but some upwards to $75 for fancier brand name logos on them.

Your right, I checked again, the tank I was looking at is an XS Worthington 119 that comes with a Yoke valve with a DIN pull out plug.

As far as regulators are concerned, I was looking at the Mk17 which is a Yoke setup, however, I can get a DIN conversion for around $50. What is the draw back of getting a setup like this vs. your recommendation of getting a DIN reg and buying a yoke converter.

I consider myself a smart person but this whole setup makes me dizzy

 

[mike_s]

Your right, I checked again, the tank I was looking at is an XS Worthington 119 that comes with a Yoke valve with a DIN pull out plug.

As far as regulators are concerned, I was looking at the Mk17 which is a Yoke setup, however, I can get a DIN conversion for around $50. What is the draw back of getting a setup like this vs. your recommendation of getting a DIN reg and buying a yoke converter.

I consider myself a smart person but this whole setup makes me dizzy

I personally have DIN and like it better. so maybe I'm a little biased.

The advantages of DIN are
1.) a stronger connection (screwed in via the threads over the compression fitting of yoke).
2.) no yoke to 'stress'. (although I've never heard of a yoke splitting under stress to be fair).
3.) No 'yoke knob' that might become entangled in something like fishing line.


There are several other threads here with more info on DIN vs Yoke you could read also. I'm sure there are other advantages. most people who have DIN are happy with it and prefer not to switch back, in my opinion.

However, if you have a DIN regulator, most rental tanks don't have DIN valves but yoke only. this is easily fixed with a screw on DIN/yoke convertor.

I've also been on a liveaboard where they didn't have a DIN fill attachment for my tank. But this was fixed by screwing in the YOKE insert each time. (kinda crazy though).


sounds like you'll have to spend $50 to get your new reg converted to DIN and then another $40 bucks or so for a DIN/Yoke convertor. I didn't know that Scubapro charged extra to get your regulator in DIN. I guess they don't have a seperate part number to order from the manufacturer as DIN in the first place? (some manufacturers have this and you don't have to pay the conversion fee).

my reg came with DIN for no extra charge (different manufacturer).

so it sounds like the only drawback for DIN for you is having to pay a little extra. But apparently you can do it later if you prefer also as it appears to be an after the sale item and not part of the original shipped regulator.


here is my suggestion. Ask your LDS where you are buying your reg to show you both the yoke and DIN version of the regulator, put them on a tank and take them off a few times and look them over and buy whichever you feel most comfortable with. Either way you should be ok. (remember that most regulators sold (in the US) are sold with yoke, so ther eis nothing wrong with yoke. overall it's just personal preference in the long run.)

hope this helps. Mike

 

[PuyallupCoug]

sounds like you'll have to spend $50 to get your new reg converted to DIN and then another $40 bucks or so for a DIN/Yoke convertor. I didn't know that Scubapro charged extra to get your regulator in DIN. I guess they don't have a seperate part number to order from the manufacturer as DIN in the first place? (some manufacturers have this and you don't have to pay the conversion fee).

I guess I was incorrect in saying that it's around $50 for a DIN conversion, what I meant to say was it's around $50 for a DIN converter that apparently I screw to my yoke Mk17 regulator that converts it to a DIN. Either way it looks like my only extra expense besides the tank and reg would be the $50 dollar converter. Does that sound right? The image of the DIN regulator converter is attached.

Thanks for all your info Mike, it has really untied the knots in my brain regarding this subject.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

That particular item replaces the yoke on your Mk 17 and makes it a DIN reg. You would then screw a DIN to yoke adapter on it if you wanted to use your reg on, for example, a rental k-valve only tank while traveling.

Scubapro sells a part that installs on your old yoke to form the adapter. Since it is a part dealers are free to set their own prices. The smart ones do not do a 100% markup on the part as the end result is not worth the cost as any brand DIN to yoke adapter will work. The end result is that for about $30-$40 you can have a DIN to yoke adapter to use on your DIN reg if the need arises.

 

[vicdiver656]

I'm still pretty new to diving and am looking at purchasing an HP 119 steel tank soon.

I'm assuming that tank comes with a DIN valve for the higher pressure. If I do get that tank, I'm assuming I need to purchase a DIN compatible regulator.

What happens though if say down the road, I take my DIN style regulator and bring it on a trip and decide to rent a few Yoke style AL80's. What options do I have?

Is it better to buy a yoke style regulator and purchase a DIN conversion for it or purchase a DIN style regulator and purchase a yoke conversion.

Thanks for your help because I'm a

Scubatoys.com is the cheapest for tanks. $32 to ship one tank in the U.S. Their HPs use 300 BAR Thermo valves, and have a really nice valve grip. Buy a DIN regulator and then a yoke converter for the regulator. You never know, if you rub the person you buy the reg from right, he might just toss in the converter free. At any rate, go with Scubatoys.com

Hope that helps!
Taylor,
Vicdiver656

 

[mike_s]

Scubatoys.com is the cheapest for tanks. $32 to ship one tank in the U.S. Their HPs use 300 BAR Thermo valves, and have a really nice valve grip.

That is incorrect.

their website says "Thermo Pro Valves". The Pro Valve is the convertible 200/232bar valve that has the removable Yoke Insert.
Reference Scubatoys page Scuba Tanks, Aluminum 80's, Pony Bottles, Spare Air Bottles, Steel Cylinders


See Thermo Valves web page 5654 Thermo PRO
as you can see in the pic, the "Pro Valve" has the hex slot to remove the insert.

The 300 bar valve doesn't come with the insert.

Now I'm sure that you can order a tank from Scubatoys with the 300bar valve, but it's not the default listed on their webpage.


EDIT: btw... I like your signature line....

Never presume that an unexploded goat is an indication of a safe decompression profile.​

I bet that at least half the people here have no clue of the contribution that goats gave to decompression tables

 

[PuyallupCoug]

That particular item replaces the yoke on your Mk 17 and makes it a DIN reg.

So it replaces a part of the reg entirely? Interesting, I wonder why they dont just make a converter that you add on to your reg to make it a DIN valve instead of replacing a part entirely. That way, if I went traveling, I would simply have to take off this hypothetical "Yoke to DIN Converter" and my reg would then be reverted back to it's original state...a yoke reg. Sort of like the valves on the tank Mike mentioned, whereas in their original state they are a DIN valve and there is an insert that's put in to make it a Yoke. If you remove the part, its back to it's original self...a DIN valve. Who knows, anyhow, thanks for the advice.

 

[oxyhacker]

The problem with making such an adaptor is that the yoke interface is already big and convoluted enough that adding an adaptor to it makes a very ackward package - you end up with having the reg at a 90 degree angle to the valve. The extra hardware and length also make it easier for the valve to loosen accidently, thus negating them main advantage of the DIN system.

Such adaptors are, in fact, readily available, for filling DIN tanks from yoke whips, though usually labeled as being for filling only. I have seen them used in the water, usually by the same people who dive double tank setups made with plastic cable ties and bungee straps. A yoke adaptor on a Din reg, on the other hand, allows the reg to mount normally, though just an inch or so further out from the valve. Which even so many people find uncomfortable.

I wonder why they dont just make a converter that you add on to your reg to make it a DIN valve instead of replacing a part entirely.