question about regulators
- Thread starter sciondiver518
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What is an entry level regulator?
Is it like an entry level car or sold suggested cheaply to get you started so if you stop, the burden will not be so great.
You cannot build around entry level regulators, unlike entry level cars that you can buy for $10,000 spend $20,000 on and sell for $10,000.
Save your Mk2 style regulators for stage-pony bottles. They route stiff like a sick starfish regrowing a limb. Or perhaps I just don't like them. I have a couple of Late Mk2s with 4 190s rough looking ex school rebuilt for sale.
A 90 degree regulator, with many routing options perhaps with a port swivel is like an agile octopus without the pop pop popping sound-feel when you pull it off your skin.
Ive a SP Mk 10 with the groove that when it was yoke was knocked out of a van charged, on its head onto stones underneath a Roth lp steel 120. Lost some gas tightened the knob and went diving. This affair left a great gouge in the cap and peened the seat removal hole shut. But that's ok because in 20 yrs I have cleaned it and changed the epdm o rings a few times usually when the yoke screw starts to squeak, but never sharpened or polished the piston or changed the seat. I have scraped some rust off the piston and spring where they sit together. I dont need to be told about nylon washers. Thanks. Sorry Zung and Awap and Mattboy and Akimbo and Couv and Luis and more, and, etc, I'm the only creep here that I bother about..
That reg has been my favorite friend which I have used twinned to all sorts of depths only down to mabe 45o Farenheight without s.p.e.c. but primarily twin poseidon firsts. I have since found my cap hole and still look upon my gouge with affection.
Well there you go. What did you say?
Is it like an entry level car or sold suggested cheaply to get you started so if you stop, the burden will not be so great.
You cannot build around entry level regulators, unlike entry level cars that you can buy for $10,000 spend $20,000 on and sell for $10,000.
Save your Mk2 style regulators for stage-pony bottles. They route stiff like a sick starfish regrowing a limb. Or perhaps I just don't like them. I have a couple of Late Mk2s with 4 190s rough looking ex school rebuilt for sale.
A 90 degree regulator, with many routing options perhaps with a port swivel is like an agile octopus without the pop pop popping sound-feel when you pull it off your skin.
Ive a SP Mk 10 with the groove that when it was yoke was knocked out of a van charged, on its head onto stones underneath a Roth lp steel 120. Lost some gas tightened the knob and went diving. This affair left a great gouge in the cap and peened the seat removal hole shut. But that's ok because in 20 yrs I have cleaned it and changed the epdm o rings a few times usually when the yoke screw starts to squeak, but never sharpened or polished the piston or changed the seat. I have scraped some rust off the piston and spring where they sit together. I dont need to be told about nylon washers. Thanks. Sorry Zung and Awap and Mattboy and Akimbo and Couv and Luis and more, and, etc, I'm the only creep here that I bother about..
That reg has been my favorite friend which I have used twinned to all sorts of depths only down to mabe 45o Farenheight without s.p.e.c. but primarily twin poseidon firsts. I have since found my cap hole and still look upon my gouge with affection.
Well there you go. What did you say?
fnfalman
Contributor
What's the difference between a $200 regulator and a $1500 regulator?
Bragging rights.
Bragging rights.
halocline
Contributor
scubapeter
Contributor
I have used a $1500 atomic t2 and a $400 z2 - NO DIFFERENCE. IIRC they are identical on a breathing machine...
keyshunter
Contributor
savholic
Registered
ScubaFeenD
Contributor
HOG (highly optimized gear) regs are without a doubt amazing regs, and through Dive right in scuba you can get a first a second stage for 250. I have a set and absolutely love them. There are others, but I thought I would point these out as they are not too well known.
or buy a new EDGE or HOG...
OK…..In fact I should amend my "standard cut and paste advice" to include stating something to the effect of: If one MUST buy a new regulator, buy one that has real customer support; i.e. will sell parts to the owner.
Edit:
At any rate, you want a regulator brand that has a good track record for keeping parts available for each model. Of course unless you intend to DIY, you also want a regulator that can be serviced by your local dive shop and lots of locations in the world. Historically the two best companies in both regards are Aqualung and Scubapro. However, if you MUST buy a new regulator, buy one that has real customer support; i.e. will sell parts to the owner. To my knowledge, that includes Hog/Edge, Zeagle, and Diverite. Moreover, those three manufactures have a presence on this board.
c
LOL! Exactly. I would still go for a DST/XTX50 or DS4/XTX50. Hogs are nice regs and they sell kits but till they become more widely available and most shops will service them, the apeks are still some of the best value for money regs around.
I would bring anyone of them down to 60m or beyond, no question.
SangP
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