Steel tanks virtually never fail a hydro test unless they have been in a very hot fire, etc. What kills a steel tank is rust in the tank, but even setting empty for 10 years does not mean rust as long as the valve was closed and/or the environment was dry. I have several that are over 25-30 years old and thery are still excellent tanks.
It's worth having a look inside the tank to see what it looks like. You can have VIP done at an LDS or just devalve it yourself with a large cresent wrench with some assitance form a rubber mallet. A small key chain type mag lite or similar small diameter flashlight lowered on a string will provide enough illumination to get an idea on rust.
Flash rust, even a generous coating is not a disqualifyer as is essentially normal. It's heavier spots and concentrations of rust that may have held moisture and may be hiding a pit that need to be removed and inspected further.
Best case: it looks great and with a hydro and VIP it is back in service.
Middle case: it needs tumbled and then hydroed to be put back in service.
Worst case: it looks marginal, gets tumbled, has pits and gets condemned.
With regard to the 6351-T6 Al tank, they are more prone than 6061-T6 Al tanks to sustained load cracking but there have been no instances of properly inspected (hydro every 5 years and an annual Visual Plus inspection) 6351-T6 alloy tanks catastrophically failing due to sustained load cracking since the current inspection protocols were put in place a few years ago.
The current inspection protocols catch any incipent cracks well before they propogate to the point where failure is possible - despite what they guy selling new tanks at the LDS says and despite very dated pre-visual plus inspection stories and pictures on various websites.