Project Log: DIY Canister light

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I'm in the middle of building a light and could use a little guidance. I've made the cannister (bottom portion) and it fits my custom made 16.8v 10AH nimh battery nicely (it's a little big and overboard but that's my style :D) I had an extra 4D cell Maglite that I've cut down for the light head. I'm on my second top because the first one had a leak somewhere and I couldn't find where it was coming from. It's made from two pieces of 1/2 inch plexiglass stepped to fit half in the cannister and capture the o-ring.

Where I could use a little help is concerning the switch and gland.
1) Should I simply drill a hole for both of them and use the o-rings and nuts to make the seal OR should I actually take the time to drill the hole too small and tap it so that I can screw them in?

2) Has anyone had any luck using toggle switches? The first boots I bought for the switch clearly weren't up to the job. I've since bought some heavy duty boots that with brass threads and rubber lip for sealing but I've considered adding some clear caulk/silicon for extra protection.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
I was told by the machine shop owner that he found the "perfect switch" for what I'm doing. I'll let you guys know what it is when I meet with him this week.

As for the grommet, I don't know. I'm having the machine shop fabricate a thread pattern directly into the back of the light head, and connecting a braided low pressure SS line so it can't get damaged by cave wall, and shouldn't be much less flexible than a thick cord.
 
Do they make drivers for those LED's? I'd get 3 of them to drop in and be a test dummy if you can give me a hand with the wiring info. I'm guessing the 800mah drivers you linked me to earlier would work?
 
Yes, those drivers would work; however, the max current rating is 1000mah, so if you want it to be as bright as possible you should look for a driver that can do that.
 
Since your boot is threaded I would just drill the hole and use the threading on the boot to tighten it down.

I wouldn't use silicon. It has a tendency to get everywhere and it doesn't seal good enough to use under pressure.

I got a Dive Rite toggle switch and boot. It did cost a little more, but I know the boots work well and it wasn't that much more.
 
You might want to think about getting cable glands and latches from them also.
 
You might want to think about getting cable glands and latches from them also.

I bought my glands and latches from McMaster-Carr. The glands nickel-plated brass and good to 300ft (product # 6907k12) and the latches are stainless and pretty heavy duty (product # 1794a43). The pressure test on the light head went fine so it looks like they're up to the job.

I made the mistake of first trying to buy everything at my local Ace Hardware store and turned to the internet for the things they didn't have. I should have just bought everything online. Ace's DIY cannister light sections is a little small.
 
It's amazing where the new technology is headed. Won't be long before HID is a thing of the past. I just ordered a TL50 from Nocturnal Lights - Manufacturer Dive Lights, Underwater Focus Lights, and Underwater Video Lights for regular and technical divers, underwater photographers, and underwater film makers. I got turned on to the overvolted Halogens from starting my own Maglite project. That's still in the works and I'm in no rush with that. I decided to mount a piezo in the head unit....Dive light It uses a circuit to manage the startup current, power levels (3), battery draw monitoring, shutdown sequence etc. Pretty ingenious. Dive Light Genie Electronics.
From what I'm seeing there is no problem overdriving the Halogens to get a nice white light but there is still a ways to go to get the same burn times as a HID but they're getting closer. Of course LED beats them all. Or will someday soon I bet. I have a Photon Torpedo backup LED light and I amazed a buddy I was diving with. It almost kept up with his 10W HID! Not quite but I was hitting the bottom of the quarry with a nice, tight LED beam right next to his. Not bad for a handheld backup. Not sure what LED it uses but it kicks ass. Eventually I'll get the Maglite head squared away (still working on the gasket/oring/sealing part) and I need to engineer a better "can" for the batteries. But while I'm experimenting I figured I'd give this TL50 a shot. I can't see buying into HID being as the bulbs are so darn expensive. And I'm also thinking that someday an LED module may be created to slip into a halogen light head/socket?
 

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