Problem with foggy masks

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Hi Sbiriguda
What mask is it, brand and type?
Try all soaping with dishwashing detergent, in very hot water, the skirt inside the mask and on the outside.
Or put in the dishwasher
 
have you found the solution for your mask finally?
 
Having worked with silicone myself (for creating soap molds), I am slowly beginning to suspect there is no chemicals on the glass.

I did try to burn the glass of my mask twice. The first time I saw the fog appear and disappear, which is often in videos described as the silicone release agent burning. ....

When I was involved in a lead molding operation, it was common practice to preheat any metal tool before inserting it into the melt, because even a small amount of moisture would cause an 800 degree steam explosion & earn you "a visit from the tinsel fairy", that you did not want. the common way of heating the tools was with a propane torch. Normally, I would see a flash of fog on the tool, around the flame, where the vapor byproduct of the burning propane would condense on the room-temperature tool, until the tool got hot enough & the fog evaporated. It looked just like the fogging I see in the videos that use a butane lighter to burn off the silicone. I am left curious if the initial fog in the mask might actually be caused by the byproducts of the butane flame.

The defog I use is a combo of baby shampoo, dish soap & a little water. My results have been good with that mix. It was a recipe that I found somewhere on this board, but I don't remember where. I can't remember if it was a little heavier in the dish soap or the baby shampoo.

Edit:
Actually, I think that I got my recipe from Lake Hickory Scuba. Their magic mix is 50% Dish soap, 40% baby shampoo, 10% water.
 
1st post here, and apologies in advance for bringing up an old thread.

Question on masks with UV treatment for the glass - is there anything different that should be done to prepare a brand new mask? I picked up the Apeks VX1 in the UV version. One of the factory decals on the glass stated that chemicals and abrasives shouldn’t be used, specifically because of the UV coating. However, when I used it today it fogged up a bit.

Anyone have experience with this?
 
1st post here, and apologies in advance for bringing up an old thread.

Question on masks with UV treatment for the glass - is there anything different that should be done to prepare a brand new mask? I picked up the Apeks VX1 in the UV version. One of the factory decals on the glass stated that chemicals and abrasives shouldn’t be used, specifically because of the UV coating. However, when I used it today it fogged up a bit.

Anyone have experience with this?

Do not use a lighter on that mask!
 
Don't know if it was mentioned yet, but use baby shampoo. Rub on inside of mask glass with toilet paper then wipe excess off (so you can't see any shampoo). You can do this weeks before you even dive as it will last. I have found I don't need to add any for the second dive of the day. In winter our water is probably as cold as yours, or close to it. My masks never fog, and a bottle of baby shampoo lasts a lonnnng time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dt2
Thanks to all for the replies!! I will clean the mask well with dish soap as suggested and then use a baby shampoo solution for ongoing defog.
 
No matter what you do, you can still get foggy mask or a small bit. I have done almost 4,800 dives and it still happens!
 

Back
Top Bottom