Question Pressure test after battery swap? Aqualung i300c
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Changing battery is no bid deal as long as you have the battery, O-ring and tool. Pressure Test? I have not known any photographer do that after placing their expensive camera/video into the housing. They are worried about condensation than flooding.
As for the size of the O-ring for i300:
Same as #4.
As for the size of the O-ring for i300:
Same as #4.
Good point.Changing battery is no bid deal as long as you have the battery, O-ring and tool. Pressure Test? I have not known any photographer do that after placing their expensive camera/video into the housing. They are worried about condensation than flooding.
As for the size of the O-ring for i300:
Same as #4.
I have been shooting photos for more than thirty years and have yet to -- knock on wood or, more appropriately, milled aluminum -- flood anything, though I have seen a few pumps suited for housings, to "pre-compress" o-rings to create a seal, over the years. They come and go; though, thankfully with the advent of digital, we're not opening and closing housings quite as frequently.
Backscatter, out of Monterey, CA is currently flogging one of their own devices; though I more commonly just light a votive candle to Heilige Subal, the patron saint of expensive Austrian camera housings and moisture alarms . . .
OK, so more reasons not to buy Suuntos.
Out of curiosity, when pressure-test a computer with separately sealed battery compartment, do you pressurize it in dielectric dye, then open 'er up to see if there's any colour on the battery? (Now I'm being ironic.)
Suunto was always an odd duck. When I first dealt with them, in the early nineties they had just distributed The Solution, through SeaQuest in the US, and forbade any battery changes, except through Suunto itself, with a six to eight week turnaround.
To further that aim, they even applied some goop to the screws on back, to prevent easy access to the battery; but when a few returned from headquarters, with either dead batteries; or, on one occasion, a missing o-ring, all bets were off. We did the work ourselves without issue.
Aside from that, it was a decent computer and I still have a few from back then; but it does takes an odd battery . . .
DIVEWATCHDOCTOR
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@dmaziuk,
@dmaziuk, Irony accepted. Now, the explanation. The pressure testing shown in my avatar is a Bergeon #5555/10 capable of pressure testing watches (and now also to pressure test dive computers by guys that take it seriously) and was invented to fulfill a specific request from the high-end (US$ 10K+) dive watch manufacturers of the Rolex Submariners, Omega Seamasters, Panerai Submersibles, etc. They waterproof every single unit before it leaves the factory and also each unit that leaves one of their service centers. Since they could not afford the luxury of having a technician as @Bigbella at each facility they needed a non-destructive and reliable pressure testing method in water. A simple pressure pot with water at the bottom and air on top in which you dunk the watch in the water, close the lid, pressurize the tank and simply cross your fingers hoping that the $ 19,900 Panerai Submersible did not flood is a "destructive test" and simply did not cut it for them. So Bergeon (a prestigious Swiss manufacturer of watch tools) came out with this ingenious (and expensive) pressure tester to prevent flooding and ruining one of those very expensive watches. During the first two or three minutes of the test, while the vessel is pressurized, the specimen under test hangs in the air attached to a sliding rod free to slide through the top lid (I mention Bergeon is a Swiss company, remember?). Afterward, you dunk it into the water pushing down the sliding rod that holds it. Two options: a) the watch leaks, in which case air at the testing pressure would have got into it without damaging the mechanism. If this is the case when you start depressurizing the vessel with a purge valve provided to that end you would see air bubbles coming out of the watch. Not only you would know that the specimen did not pass the test but also where the leak is (rear case sealing, one of the pushbuttons, or a crack or bad sealing in the glass). b) the watch is perfectly waterproof so no air got inside while pressurizing the vessel. Therefore you should see no bubbles coming out of it during the depressurizing phase.
@dmaziuk, Irony accepted. Now, the explanation. The pressure testing shown in my avatar is a Bergeon #5555/10 capable of pressure testing watches (and now also to pressure test dive computers by guys that take it seriously) and was invented to fulfill a specific request from the high-end (US$ 10K+) dive watch manufacturers of the Rolex Submariners, Omega Seamasters, Panerai Submersibles, etc. They waterproof every single unit before it leaves the factory and also each unit that leaves one of their service centers. Since they could not afford the luxury of having a technician as @Bigbella at each facility they needed a non-destructive and reliable pressure testing method in water. A simple pressure pot with water at the bottom and air on top in which you dunk the watch in the water, close the lid, pressurize the tank and simply cross your fingers hoping that the $ 19,900 Panerai Submersible did not flood is a "destructive test" and simply did not cut it for them. So Bergeon (a prestigious Swiss manufacturer of watch tools) came out with this ingenious (and expensive) pressure tester to prevent flooding and ruining one of those very expensive watches. During the first two or three minutes of the test, while the vessel is pressurized, the specimen under test hangs in the air attached to a sliding rod free to slide through the top lid (I mention Bergeon is a Swiss company, remember?). Afterward, you dunk it into the water pushing down the sliding rod that holds it. Two options: a) the watch leaks, in which case air at the testing pressure would have got into it without damaging the mechanism. If this is the case when you start depressurizing the vessel with a purge valve provided to that end you would see air bubbles coming out of the watch. Not only you would know that the specimen did not pass the test but also where the leak is (rear case sealing, one of the pushbuttons, or a crack or bad sealing in the glass). b) the watch is perfectly waterproof so no air got inside while pressurizing the vessel. Therefore you should see no bubbles coming out of it during the depressurizing phase.
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