Potential rig. Comments?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

DSS has never sold AL plates to my knowledge. 10lbs is about right for a steel plate, webbing harness, and small wing. You got a GREAT deal on this. As I mentioned before, the plate will 'fit' you because there's really only one common size of plate (except for the small plates that some manufacturers offer) and the webbing is infinitely adjustable. If it's too tight on you and there's not enough excess webbing to enlarge the shoulder and waist size, you'll just have to buy 15 ft or so of 2" nylon webbing. You can re-use all the hardware that comes with the rig. I think I noticed a xs scuba weight pocket on there as well; those are perfect for adding a couple of pounds.

Aha. Good to know. I thought I had read that AL plates are typically around 6# by themselves and steel are around 12#. It's funny (now) that when I talked to him and asked about shipping he said he would ship it "but it will probably be pretty expensive. It's really heavy." LOL

Hopefully he stored the wing properly and the bladder is OK.

Indeed. So, the obvious first test would be to fill up a bath tub, manually inflate it, and hold it under to look for leaks. Is there anything else to do to verify that it's good before I actually attempt to dive with it?

Hollis 212/DC3 are great regs for only $199. Environmentally sealed, cold water is no issue, and they breathe like a champ.

Where do you see those for that price? I just had a quick look on LP and the DC3 is $165 by itself and the 212 is $195 (w/o a hose).
 
My standard wing/BCD test is fully inflate it until the opv valve pops and then let it sit overnight if still inflated fully the next day get it wet and check for leaks. Obviously I would either do a local dive or bring a backup wing just in case.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hook it up to an LP inflator hose. Put the inflator underwater and cycle it -- add air and then vent -- several times, to make sure there are no leaks from the inflator and that it doesn't stick. The most dangerous malfunction in a BC is a stuck inflator, and the valves can get sticky if not properly cared for, or if the o-rings get old. Luckily, Trident makes an inflator module that isn't terribly expensive, so it's very easy to replace the entire thing if it's corroded. It's also not terribly difficult to take them apart and replace the o-rings, although one must be very careful not to scratch the brass doing so, because they're made of soft metal and not really designed to be serviced repeatedly.
 
TSandM, you make a good point that I had meant to ask about and then forgot.

Since I don't have a tank or a regulator set (yet) of my own, it sounds like I should just take the wing to my LDS and ask them to service and test it. I saw that the Dive Rite (I think) inflator module is only $15, so if there's any question, I have no problem going ahead and replacing that part.
 
shouldn't have to take it to the LDS, just get it in the bathtub or a rubbermaid and cycle it a few times, not a whole lot that can go wrong there. Tobin actually has a good video on his website on how to rebuild the inflators and he and Dive Gear Express have the rebuild kits with tool
 
The first times you dive it - if you don't replace the inflator - pay some attention to the quick release on the inflator hose. If you get a runaway that's the quickest way to stop it - then just manually deflate/inflate and surface.

Happened to me once - it's a non-issue if you're expecting it.
 
Scuba tank. 3500 psi. Black. PST HP80 for $20, if you don't buy that you're a fool.... It's really short, but it's a really nice tank

Scuba tanks cheap!
those are also good deals on tanks.... Not sure what the big ones are likely Heiser 104's, but with the Hvalves you should buy both of those and the 120 with it. The 120 is the one you really want, but you'll never need any lead with the Heisers, they're like 8lbs negative....

Scuba gear those are a good reg set, especially for your gf if she's on the fence, nice and cheap too

Steel scuba tank
good deal on that tank too
 
Scuba tank. 3500 psi. Black. PST HP80 for $20, if you don't buy that you're a fool.... It's really short, but it's a really nice tank

Scuba tanks cheap!
those are also good deals on tanks.... Not sure what the big ones are likely Heiser 104's, but with the Hvalves you should buy both of those and the 120 with it. The 120 is the one you really want, but you'll never need any lead with the Heisers, they're like 8lbs negative....

Scuba gear those are a good reg set, especially for your gf if she's on the fence, nice and cheap too

Steel scuba tank
good deal on that tank too

tbone, thanks for the links. I'm stretching my budget to the limit right now, so I can't buy all these tanks. But, a good tank for $20 seems like a no-brainer. And the Genesis 120 sounds like it could be an option. But, tanks have been last on my shopping list, so I'm not up to speed. Maybe you can answer a couple of questions.

The first tank you linked. You said that's a PST HP80. So, that's a high pressure tank that holds 80 cu ft of air, right? I think the tanks I've been using in training as "AL80" tanks, which are low pressure tanks that hold 80 cu ft, right? Aka an LP80? So, I have gathered that a LP80 actually holds 77 cu ft and an HP 80 holds a little more? Are HP80s always steel?

I guess what I really want to know is what are the differences with this high pressure tank you linked, compared to a regular AL80? When you say it's really short, does that just mean the external height dimension is shorter than a regular AL80? And that's because it holds the same amount of air (roughly), but at a higher internal pressure, so it's a lower internal volume?

Is the HP80 better than a regular AL80 because it's heavier? And less weight change between empty and full? Any other advantage?

And what is that valve on that tank? It doesn't look like the yoke regs I've been using would fit it correctly. If I need to replace the valve in it, should I be concerned that it might be old and have a non-standard thread size?

And the Genesis 120? The pros of that are?

Heavier, so I can dive with less weight?

Holds 50% more air, so I can stay down longer?

Finally, am I correct in understanding that I could take these tanks to my LDS and have them O2 cleaned so I could use them for Nitrox?
 
An Al80 is an ALUMINUM tank that holds 77 cubic feet at its rated pressure, 3000 psi. An HP80 is a STEEL tank, which holds 80 cubic feet at its rated pressure, which depends on the maker of the tank. Several manufacturers make a "high pressure" steel 80, but the working pressure varies, as does the pressure at which the tank contains its stated volume.

Aluminum tanks are relatively inexpensive and are not as subject to rust, but they impose a significant weight penalty on the diver, as they are both physically heavy for their volume, and also require about 5 pounds or more of additional lead to sink them, compared with steel tanks. They are virtually ubiquitous in tropical resorts, where corrosion is a big issue and tank expense is, too. On the other hand, steel tanks are almost universally used in cold water, because of the weight considerations. Steels are more expensive, and can develop problems with internal (or external) rust, if not handled properly.

In buying a tank, you need to look at your budget, your physical strength, the type of diving you are doing, and your size. HP80s, for example, are very short tanks. If you are quite tall, putting a heavy steel object high up on your body may make you tend to go head-down all the time. 120s are VERY long tanks; I cannot sit down while carrying one. They are best used by tall divers with long torsos. HP130s have a ton of gas in them (enough to get into trouble :) ) and they are a reasonable length, but they weigh almost 50 pounds when full, which doesn't make them fun to move around on land -- and because they are only about 1.5 pounds negative when empty, you don't get to jettison any weight by using them.

Recognizing that this is my own personal opinion and nothing else, I think, for cold water diving, HP80s work great for small women. LP95s are inexpensive but heavy, but have enough gas (with the 10% + rating) to do almost any recreational dive above 100 feet and in cold water. HP100s are delightful tanks, and are expensive and hard to find because of that. They're small, relatively light for their capacity, and hold enough gas for almost any recreational dive. HP130s are what you use when you don't want to dive doubles . . . you can easily get into deco using them, which is not a terribly good idea on a non-redundant setup. 130s are perfect for scooter dives in Monterey :)

Tanks should be very low on the acquisition list, because they are easy to rent, and around here, most shops rent them for only a little more than the fill price.
 
Thanks, TSandM.

In my ABC class, I experimented a bunch with my weighting (in a 3/2, with an AL80). I was using 10# and I found that I had the best trim when I put 2 x 4# in pockets on the upper tank band and 2 x 1# in the front ditchable pockets.

I am 6' 1" tall, but it still sounds like maybe I might actually enjoy an HP80 for giving me more weight higher up. Plus, I could let it ride a little lower in the straps. In the ABC class, if I was horizontal but tried to look straight ahead or up a little bit, I could touch the 1st stage with the back of my head. I didn't want to move the tank down in the straps and exacerbate my head-up trim issue. So, maybe an HP80 would actually be good for me?
 

Back
Top Bottom