Please educate me on a regulator question

[keeth1123]

I recently purchased the Aqualung PRO HD package and choose to upgrade the Titan regulator to the Core. This option was to ensure a long use of the equipment, as future goals are to explore the possibility of some wreck diving sites. I was able to use the gear for the first time recently and experienced no issues. I did notice though that my spare reg. is an Aqualung ABS? I learned that Aqualung also sells a spare Core reg. Is my ABS spare good at the same depths as my Core primary??

I also read in the manual about a certain DIN or yoke with different PSI ratings. Can someone please explain this to me and how I would tell which I have?

Gear was tested at Blue Grotto. No issues with the setup and worked just as everything did during training.

 

[admikar]

If you screw your first stage directly to tank valve it's a DIN. If you put your reg on tank valve and then tighten it with a back mounted screw it's a yoke (or A-clamp). DIN is good to 4300 PSI, yoke is up to 3000 PSI.

 

[Dive Right In Scuba.]

I recently purchased the Aqualung PRO HD package and choose to upgrade the Titan regulator to the Core. This option was to ensure a long use of the equipment, as future goals are to explore the possibility of some wreck diving sites. I was able to use the gear for the first time recently and experienced no issues. I did notice though that my spare reg. is an Aqualung ABS? I learned that Aqualung also sells a spare Core reg. Is my ABS spare good at the same depths as my Core primary??

I also read in the manual about a certain DIN or yoke with different PSI ratings. Can someone please explain this to me and how I would tell which I have?

Your regulators will work fine at recreational diving depths.

DIN regulators and valves come in two sizes: 200 bar and 300 bar. The 300 bar ones are longer, with more turns of the threads needed to complete the assembly. The only time that will be a problem is if you try to put a 200 bar regulator into a 300 bar valve. The 200 bar regulator stem is shorter than the 300 bar valve opening, so after you have screwed it in as far as it will go, it will still have a big gap between the O-ring and the back of the valve. No good!

Almost everyone I know uses 300 bar regulators for that reason. They also tend to use 200 bar valves, especially on single tanks. That means that some threads will still be showing after the assembly is done, which is no problem at all. The advantage of the 200 bar valve is that you can put in an insert that will make it usable for a yoke regulator. You cannot use a yoke regulator on a 300 bar DIN valve.

If you have a DIN regulator and a yoke valve, you can use an adapter to make the connection.

 

[diversteve]

images are labeled as to what they are

 

[diversteve]

The ABS Octo does get some negative comments concerning breathability here occasionally but it's only going to get very occasional - maybe never - use. Of course if you need it, you probably really do.

An upgrade would be to an Apeks Egress Octo if you like the universal functionality of that style of octo. http://www.aqualung.com/us/gear/alternate-air-sources/item/162-egress-octopus

But for $25 less you can also get a conventional Titan/Calypso octo. http://www.aqualung.com/us/gear/alternate-air-sources/item/154-calypso-titan-octopus
Or pay $50 more for the matching Core octo. http://www.aqualung.com/us/gear/alternate-air-sources/item/304-core-octopus

I'm pretty sure all DIN Core's are 300 bar.

Available in yoke (3300 psi / 232 bar max) or din (4350 psi / 300 bar max)

 

[Bob DBF]

If you screw your first stage directly to tank valve it's a DIN. If you put your reg on tank valve and then tighten it with a back mounted screw it's a yoke (or A-clamp). DIN is good to 4300 PSI, yoke is up to 3000 PSI.

Unless you are diving a vintage reg, a yoke will handle 4000# easily. I've had my yoke from 2005 on a slightly overfilled MP 120 so I know for a fact it can handle 3700# without any issues. I would imagine that the new yokes designed for 3500# service and will function well above that. As as a matter of interest, I have a yoke Sherwood reg from the '70's that was expressly made for 4000# service.

The differences between the yoke and DIN is not necessarily the service pressure the devices can handle.


Bob

 

[admikar]

Yes, both DIN and yoke can operate higher pressures than I quoted (just like tanks can tolerate a lot more than operating pressure). But, usually both types of tanks get filled to 3000#, although you risk o-ring blow-out if you connect yoke to 4000#.
I am not trying to say that DIN is better.

 

[runsongas]

the regulator 1st stage isn't the problem, the tank valve is. oring extrusion issues exist at higher pressures with yoke valves if the oring is too soft or in bad shape.

 

[Freewillow]

Did not understand why you thought that to go from a Titan to a Core? Can you explain the difference. For me one is simply smaller and more rescent than the other.

 

[claymore]

I believe the Core is the same 1st stage as the Titan. The Core has all the upgrades now, sealed 1st stage, better 2nd stage ect. In reality it was a name change to add another layer of products. The Titan is now the bottom line diaphragm regs now.