Will my regulator work this with tank

[razorseal]

Hey all, I have a 2003 Aqualung Titan 1st stage that says "USA 3000PSI and 232 BAR max."

I was looking at this tank - Scuba Diving Gear, Fins, Tanks, Masks & more | Divers Direct - Divers Direct

Faber Blue Steel FX Steel Scuba Tanks​

I believe this has the convertible adapter so I don't need to go change my 1st stage from yoke to DIN. my question is, will my 1st stage work with this? I'm not sure if it needs to say 237BAR or 300 BAR max (also why does it say 3000psi USA but also 232BAR max which is 3364.) since these tanks go to 3442.

 

[Tanks A Lot]

Your regulator will work just fine. I don't know if they supply it with an insert, but you can always buy one afterwards for very little money:

Yokes are rated mostly to 232bar, that what you see on your first stage. This cylinder is rated for 232bar in the European sector, not sure what they rate them to in the states. I have to assume that the giving 3442 psi is correct. It is not uncommon for cylinders to be rated to different pressures in different markets, this has to do with standards that the manufacturer has to adhere to, rather than any real technical reasons.
Even if pumped to 3442 psi, your yoke will do just fine.

I want to give a word of caution about the San-O-Sub BlueSteel valve that is on there. I have had hundreds of these in the shop over the years and they are one of my least favorite valves. For private use they are just fine, but in a rough dive centre environment they tend to not forgive the bangs and bashes all too well.

 

[BoltSnap]

I want to give a word of caution about the San-O-Sub BlueSteel valve that is on there. I have had hundreds of these in the shop over the years and they are one of my least favorite valves.

What do you recommend for dive center heavy use?

 

[Tanks A Lot]

What do you recommend for dive center heavy use?

That would very much depend on the market you are operating in I guess. Some valves are considerably cheaper in the states, while others can be much cheaper on the other side of the pond. The below is just for SCUBA valves, a lot of these manufacturers manufacturer for other markets as well in which I have little experience, besides some O2 valves.

SoS
The San-O-Sub line-up is hard to beat price wise, but most of their line-up tend to have a rather thin material around the G5/8" inlet connection. Any hit right on top of the head of the valve, as often occurs when sliding them into pickup trucks for example, can cause deformation. This is rather hard or often impossible to properly repair in my experience.
I dislike the Bluesteel series personally, as I found that the chrome plating is rather poor, occasionally interfering with a proper seal on the thrust washer/packing nut gland.
Replacement parts are fairly uniform across their valves (Yes, there are differences here and there) and really cheap.

M.D.E.
M.D.E. has great valves which a different approach to the insides than most other manufacturers of SCUBA valves. They use a square fitting for the spindle and seat connection. Sherwood uses this, but unfortunately only in their KVAB medical O2 valves and not SCUBA valves. I have yet to see a valve that performs as well after having been abused by wet filled cylinders for years on end.
They did drop the ball with their all rubber handwheel, it hates the sun. After a couple of years of service in harsh tropics, this rubber start to disintegrate.
Unfortunately they are based in the UK, so import duties will apply now pretty much where ever you are.
Replacement parts are a bit of a pain, as M.D.E. only sells a full replacement kit, including packing nut and spindle. While this makes servicing rather easy, I do find this wasteful. We got enough rubbish in the world, no need to add to the problem in my eyes.
M.D.E. is no owned by Cavagna.
Genesis slaps their name on M.D.E.s valves, it's the same thing.

Thermo
Thermo simply makes great valves. While I would say that the M.D.E. for example is the better performer in adverse conditions, Thermo valves are great all rounders. The valves themselves and their spare parts are not cheaply sourced outside the Americas though.

BtS
BtS has some nice valves. Again, probably cheaper in the European market. They have some all "plastic" seats on some of their valves which I'm not a big fan of (Yes I know it's not plastic...). A lot of their seats have a very fine thread, making it impossible to exchange for another from a different valve.

Coltri Sub
Coltri is very similar to SoS. That may have to do with the fact that some of their valves have or are still made by SoS.

Harrison
Harrison is very similar Thermo. A lot if not most parts are the same.

Lavo
Lavo makes one of the best Z-Valves on the market. In terms of reliability and ease of use one hell of a good valve. Horrible for use in Nitrox scenarios, as their valves go from closed to very much open with very little turn of the handwheel, making it difficult for analyzing stuff.

Rotarex
Rotarex produced on of the best valves I have ever had in my hand, their 1020802. Back then it was distributed by DiveTeam, which is out of business I believe. The packing nut is a bit of pain here, one needs a 21mm socket which has been ground down very cleanly to losen it without causing damage.
Other than the opening of the packing nut, a great valve. SoS's seats can be used here and the rest of the valve is virtually indestructible.

ScubaPro & Seemann Sub
An OK valve, unfortunately not up to the rest of the ScubaPro standard in my eyes. The seat can lock up on old valves that have no chrome left in the seat area. Operating the valve on big pressure differentials can be a pain in the ass due to the seat locking up.
Also not one of the cheaper valves out there.

ScubaTech
Very similar to BtS, I'm not entirely sure if they had some of their valves manufactured by BtS, but it sure looks like it.

XS Scuba
See Thermo, as it's virtually the same valve with minor differences.

AP Diving
See BtS, I believe they are the manufacturer.


The needs of one dive centre and the needs of the next door dive centre may vary greatly. Are you a small shop and maybe you are the only one handling cylinders? A SoS valve which may be a bit more fragile than some of the competition may suffice, as you handle things personally. Are you a huge shop which has lots of careless DMTs? Maybe a rugged Thermo would you suit better. Are you based in the UK? Maybe an M.D.E. is the best choice price wise. And on it goes...

I find it difficult to give fast and hard answers, everyone's needs can be very different, but maybe the above give some pointers which are solely based on personal experience.
There are a lot more manufacturers out there. I do not endorse or condone any manufacturer, all pretty much have a role in the current market.

 

[axxel57]

That would very much depend on the market you are operating in I guess. Some valves are considerably cheaper in the states, while others can be much cheaper on the other side of the pond. The below is just for SCUBA valves, a lot of these manufacturers manufacturer for other markets as well in which I have little experience, besides some O2 valves.

SoS
The San-O-Sub line-up is hard to beat price wise, but most of their line-up tend to have a rather thin material around the G5/8" inlet connection. Any hit right on top of the head of the valve, as often occurs when sliding them into pickup trucks for example, can cause deformation. This is rather hard or often impossible to properly repair in my experience.
I dislike the Bluesteel series personally, as I found that the chrome plating is rather poor, occasionally interfering with a proper seal on the thrust washer/packing nut gland.
Replacement parts are fairly uniform across their valves (Yes, there are differences here and there) and really cheap.

M.D.E.
M.D.E. has great valves which a different approach to the insides than most other manufacturers of SCUBA valves. They use a square fitting for the spindle and seat connection. Sherwood uses this, but unfortunately only in their KVAB medical O2 valves and not SCUBA valves. I have yet to see a valve that performs as well after having been abused by wet filled cylinders for years on end.
They did drop the ball with their all rubber handwheel, it hates the sun. After a couple of years of service in harsh tropics, this rubber start to disintegrate.
Unfortunately they are based in the UK, so import duties will apply now pretty much where ever you are.
Replacement parts are a bit of a pain, as M.D.E. only sells a full replacement kit, including packing nut and spindle. While this makes servicing rather easy, I do find this wasteful. We got enough rubbish in the world, no need to add to the problem in my eyes.
M.D.E. is no owned by Cavagna.
Genesis slaps their name on M.D.E.s valves, it's the same thing.

Thermo
Thermo simply makes great valves. While I would say that the M.D.E. for example is the better performer in adverse conditions, Thermo valves are great all rounders. The valves themselves and their spare parts are not cheaply sourced outside the Americas though.

BtS
BtS has some nice valves. Again, probably cheaper in the European market. They have some all "plastic" seats on some of their valves which I'm not a big fan of (Yes I know it's not plastic...). A lot of their seats have a very fine thread, making it impossible to exchange for another from a different valve.

Coltri Sub
Coltri is very similar to SoS. That may have to do with the fact that some of their valves have or are still made by SoS.

Harrison
Harrison is very similar Thermo. A lot if not most parts are the same.

Lavo
Lavo makes one of the best Z-Valves on the market. In terms of reliability and ease of use one hell of a good valve. Horrible for use in Nitrox scenarios, as their valves go from closed to very much open with very little turn of the handwheel, making it difficult for analyzing stuff.

Rotarex
Rotarex produced on of the best valves I have ever had in my hand, their 1020802. Back then it was distributed by DiveTeam, which is out of business I believe. The packing nut is a bit of pain here, one needs a 21mm socket which has been ground down very cleanly to losen it without causing damage.
Other than the opening of the packing nut, a great valve. SoS's seats can be used here and the rest of the valve is virtually indestructible.

ScubaPro & Seemann Sub
An OK valve, unfortunately not up to the rest of the ScubaPro standard in my eyes. The seat can lock up on old valves that have no chrome left in the seat area. Operating the valve on big pressure differentials can be a pain in the ass due to the seat locking up.
Also not one of the cheaper valves out there.

ScubaTech
Very similar to BtS, I'm not entirely sure if they had some of their valves manufactured by BtS, but it sure looks like it.

XS Scuba
See Thermo, as it's virtually the same valve with minor differences.

AP Diving
See BtS, I believe they are the manufacturer.


The needs of one dive centre and the needs of the next door dive centre may vary greatly. Are you a small shop and maybe you are the only one handling cylinders? A SoS valve which may be a bit more fragile than some of the competition may suffice, as you handle things personally. Are you a huge shop which has lots of careless DMTs? Maybe a rugged Thermo would you suit better. Are you based in the UK? Maybe an M.D.E. is the best choice price wise. And on it goes...

I find it difficult to give fast and hard answers, everyone's needs can be very different, but maybe the above give some pointers which are solely based on personal experience.
There are a lot more manufacturers out there. I do not endorse or condone any manufacturer, all pretty much have a role in the current market.

Very correct, I also found the Genesis style valves as the strongest and reliable valves for fleet tanks.
You still can buy the HP Seats separately and use generic o-rings for the service, problem is that you don't get the white nylon washer on the stem separately anymore, which you have to change every three or four services, so one has now to purchase the expensive Service Kits.
And right, you always need spare hand wheels for Genesis Valves.
But since especially beginners tend to over tight the valves with the hand wheel, either the steel of Sherwood, Thermo or Harrison Valves inlets and others will round the square brass stems, or the brass stems will damage the plastic inlets of the Genesis Style rubber hand wheels.......

 

[Tanks A Lot]

But since especially beginners tend to over tight the valves with the hand wheel, either the steel of Sherwood, Thermo or Harrison Valves inlets and others will round the square brass stems, or the brass stems will damage the plastic inlets of the Genesis Style rubber hand wheels.......

That is the main issue, exactly. I do like the Genesis/MDEs, because their square bit where the handwheel grabs the spindle is a lot bigger than on most other valves. I wish they would have paired this with a bit of a better quality handwheel.
On a couple of personal cylinders I have cut bigger squares into SoS handwheels to fit MDEs and that pairing was awesome!

With regards to the nylon washer, I have not been able to source it anywhere, not even bigger factories.

I found that one can easily cut a SoS split washer to size to fit the spindle, that isn't all that difficult. There are manufacturers which will make proper sized ones for you if you order say 1000 pieces and the price is rather reasonable. That being said, for personal use this is of course nonsense.

I have not seen the seats sold seperatly, not even from MDE directly. Would you have a contact or place where to look for these?

 

[Angelo Farina]

That would very much depend on the market you are operating in I guess. Some valves are considerably cheaper in the states, while others can be much cheaper on the other side of the pond. The below is just for SCUBA valves, a lot of these manufacturers manufacturer for other markets as well in which I have little experience, besides some O2 valves.

SoS
The San-O-Sub line-up is hard to beat price wise, but most of their line-up tend to have a rather thin material around the G5/8" inlet connection. Any hit right on top of the head of the valve, as often occurs when sliding them into pickup trucks for example, can cause deformation. This is rather hard or often impossible to properly repair in my experience.
I dislike the Bluesteel series personally, as I found that the chrome plating is rather poor, occasionally interfering with a proper seal on the thrust washer/packing nut gland.
Replacement parts are fairly uniform across their valves (Yes, there are differences here and there) and really cheap.

M.D.E.
M.D.E. has great valves which a different approach to the insides than most other manufacturers of SCUBA valves. They use a square fitting for the spindle and seat connection. Sherwood uses this, but unfortunately only in their KVAB medical O2 valves and not SCUBA valves. I have yet to see a valve that performs as well after having been abused by wet filled cylinders for years on end.
They did drop the ball with their all rubber handwheel, it hates the sun. After a couple of years of service in harsh tropics, this rubber start to disintegrate.
Unfortunately they are based in the UK, so import duties will apply now pretty much where ever you are.
Replacement parts are a bit of a pain, as M.D.E. only sells a full replacement kit, including packing nut and spindle. While this makes servicing rather easy, I do find this wasteful. We got enough rubbish in the world, no need to add to the problem in my eyes.
M.D.E. is no owned by Cavagna.
Genesis slaps their name on M.D.E.s valves, it's the same thing.

Thermo
Thermo simply makes great valves. While I would say that the M.D.E. for example is the better performer in adverse conditions, Thermo valves are great all rounders. The valves themselves and their spare parts are not cheaply sourced outside the Americas though.

BtS
BtS has some nice valves. Again, probably cheaper in the European market. They have some all "plastic" seats on some of their valves which I'm not a big fan of (Yes I know it's not plastic...). A lot of their seats have a very fine thread, making it impossible to exchange for another from a different valve.

Coltri Sub
Coltri is very similar to SoS. That may have to do with the fact that some of their valves have or are still made by SoS.

Harrison
Harrison is very similar Thermo. A lot if not most parts are the same.

Lavo
Lavo makes one of the best Z-Valves on the market. In terms of reliability and ease of use one hell of a good valve. Horrible for use in Nitrox scenarios, as their valves go from closed to very much open with very little turn of the handwheel, making it difficult for analyzing stuff.

Rotarex
Rotarex produced on of the best valves I have ever had in my hand, their 1020802. Back then it was distributed by DiveTeam, which is out of business I believe. The packing nut is a bit of pain here, one needs a 21mm socket which has been ground down very cleanly to losen it without causing damage.
Other than the opening of the packing nut, a great valve. SoS's seats can be used here and the rest of the valve is virtually indestructible.

ScubaPro & Seemann Sub
An OK valve, unfortunately not up to the rest of the ScubaPro standard in my eyes. The seat can lock up on old valves that have no chrome left in the seat area. Operating the valve on big pressure differentials can be a pain in the ass due to the seat locking up.
Also not one of the cheaper valves out there.

ScubaTech
Very similar to BtS, I'm not entirely sure if they had some of their valves manufactured by BtS, but it sure looks like it.

XS Scuba
See Thermo, as it's virtually the same valve with minor differences.

AP Diving
See BtS, I believe they are the manufacturer.


The needs of one dive centre and the needs of the next door dive centre may vary greatly. Are you a small shop and maybe you are the only one handling cylinders? A SoS valve which may be a bit more fragile than some of the competition may suffice, as you handle things personally. Are you a huge shop which has lots of careless DMTs? Maybe a rugged Thermo would you suit better. Are you based in the UK? Maybe an M.D.E. is the best choice price wise. And on it goes...

I find it difficult to give fast and hard answers, everyone's needs can be very different, but maybe the above give some pointers which are solely based on personal experience.
There are a lot more manufacturers out there. I do not endorse or condone any manufacturer, all pretty much have a role in the current market.

You missed my favourite one, the Beuchat Y valve with two fully independent valves and two separated air paths:

2 Outlet SAS Concept - Beuchat

www.azzisport.com

 

[Tanks A Lot]

That's definitely an interesting looking valve, I have not seen one with two dip tubes before!

 

[BoltSnap]

That would very much depend on the market you are operating in I guess

I am in Libya, import duty is of no concern here. I need sturdy valves especially at the top where the regulator connects to valve. Problems occur during transportation of the tanks with several people handling the tanks in and out of the truck.

We use the European thread valve, m25x2 g5/8 valves.

 

[Angelo Farina]

I am in Libya, import duty is of no concern here. I need sturdy valves especially at the top where the regulator connects to valve. Problems occur during transportation of the tanks with several people handling the tanks in and out of the truck.

We use the European thread valve, m25x2 g5/8 valves.

So a valve made in France shoulf be ok for you.
In terms of reliability, a double valve provides some advantage: in case one knob is stuck, broken or the DIN screw damaged, you can simply use the other valve...
In Europe dual-valves (Y, T or H) are widely used, although usually with only one dip tube:
Here the Cressi Y:

Cressi Valve 2 Outputs Grey | Diveinn

Buy Cressi Valve 2 Outputs - Grey, Valves from Bottles for only 0 €. Find dive deals in Diveinn | Fast delivery

www.tradeinn.com

Here the Tecline T-shaped:

TECLINE Double T-type valve - for diving with 2 regulators

Increase your diving safety! Double T-shaped valve - Working pressure 232 bar, Thread M25X2 (European Standard), Knobs turn slightly.

divezone.pl

Here a modular H valve, which I like much less:

Double Valve for Cylinders Thread M25

Double valve for scuba diving cylinders with a M25 thread. The valve thread specification must exactly match the neck thread specification of the cylinder. Please, check whether your scuba divin...

www.maremossoforzasette.it