Piston or diaphragm

[rsingler]

When I had a few Atomic titanium (piston) regs serviced (annuals) @ Scubatoys, their reg tech STRONGLY recommended NOT sealing the 1st-stages with Christolube, but instead to leave them non-sealed. I took his advice on 2 of the 3 reg sets.

His rationale?

 

[StefinSB]

His rationale?

Making more money replacing parts later?

 

[scubafanatic]

His rationale?

If memory serves (as this was maybe 8-12 months ago), the Christolube becomes a 'Christolube + salt water slurry', which traps and holds corrosive sea water against 1st-stage internal components, as it never has a chance to dry out inside. It's my observation the Atomic 'rubber band' containment system is pretty 'prehistoric/primitive' , oozing Christolube out and I can see how sea water could also leak in as well, so I can understand his viewpoint. Secondarily, it adds a lot of extra expense to servicing given the expense per ounce of Christolube (and quite messy to clean out during servicing).

 

[stuartv]

If you leave out the Cristolube, that saves $40 - 60 (??) per service? How many services without Cristolube before you have to replace a part? How much does that part cost?

 

[rsingler]

Well, if it it's packed incompletely (incompetently), the bubbles left behind shrink on descent, allowing sea water to enter.

My Atomic is on its third year since service. For fun last year, I removed the boot and there were no gaps in the Tribolube showing in the environmental holes.

My Mk 10 with a homemade boot is on its fifth year since service. Maybe to answer this "tech's" belief, I should open it up and post pics. It's the reg on page 2 of this thread.

Yes, it's prehistoric - Scubapro stopped doing that in the early 80's. Doesn't make it wrong. Yes, you can't mash on the environmental seal and squeeze out lube and expect it not to suck in a bubble. Yes, there are dry seal designs as noted above that you can be a little rougher with.
But if you're a piston guy...if you like the quality of Atomic...if you are blown away by their second stage, then hey! Here's an EASY way to make your reg last as long as my 30 year old Mk10.
Extra service cost? An extra $60 every three years? Not much of a price to pay.

My $0.02

 

[george_austin]

Thread has gone off topic

 

[rsingler]

After my fifth dive of the day in Bonaire (two before lunch, two before dinner, one before bed off the beach), for 6 days running, I am very happy to just have to dunk my reg for 10 sec and rinse out the second stage.

 

[David @ Phuket Dive Tours]

All depends on what you doing as a diver - warm / cold - deep or shallow diving...

Diaphragm tend to need more frequent service and free flow at deeper depths...service parts can be hard to locate...

Piston MK25EVO has good internals easy to service - good at all depths...

 

[buddhasummer]

All depends on what you doing as a diver - warm / cold - deep or shallow diving...

Diaphragm tend to need more frequent service and free flow at deeper depths...service parts can be hard to locate...

Piston MK25EVO has good internals easy to service - good at all depths...

That depends on what reg specifically you're talking about. Not all diaphragm regs "over balance". I guess your experience is different from mine I dove Apeks for over 10 years beyond rec depths and never once experienced a free flow. Ditto SP MK17, MK11, HOG, DR, AL Titan, Conshelf and SEA....Re service parts, how are they any harder to locate than piston regs? Again, I would think it depends on what reg you're talking about and where you live. Cheers.

 

[tbone1004]

All depends on what you doing as a diver - warm / cold - deep or shallow diving...

Diaphragm tend to need more frequent service and free flow at deeper depths...service parts can be hard to locate...

Piston MK25EVO has good internals easy to service - good at all depths...

yeah no...