After years of wear and tear, my pretty white Fabers are starting to shown their age and usage. I would like to touch them up or repaint them, but I do not know what type of paint they use. Does anyone know where I can get it?
Paint for Fabers
- Thread starter Jared0425
- Start date
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chrpai
Contributor
I'd suggest stripping them down and leaving them in their natural straight. It's better from a corrosion perspective.
Sik_Z33
Contributor
Marine grade epoxy from a marine supply store would be my first choice. And an air/airless sprayer to give you a pro finish.
chrpai- won't a bare tank rust without some sort of galvanized finish? If not stripping and leaving bare does sound good.
chrpai- won't a bare tank rust without some sort of galvanized finish? If not stripping and leaving bare does sound good.
Overshoot
Registered
Getting a tank hydro'd last week the tech showed me about 6 Italian Farbers that were caught in a house fire that he was about to test. He thinks highly of the tanks and had no doubts that they would pass. When I asked about the chared/blackened finish he said that a wire brush would be all that it would take -along with some new valves.
Sir-Dive-A-Lot
Registered
The zinc coating (if any) under the Faber finish is not very robust so I would not suggest stripping them. Nothing you can apply will be as tough as the factory finish. That pretty much makes the best option spot touch-ups. I'd spot sand & clean, prime with cold galvalize and top coat with any white enamel you have handy.
Even if you go to the extents of a full blown epoxy refinsh it's a scuba cylinder and it's bound to get bunged up all over again.
Bare is best for steel hot dipped galvanized and aluminum cylinders.
Pete
Even if you go to the extents of a full blown epoxy refinsh it's a scuba cylinder and it's bound to get bunged up all over again.
Bare is best for steel hot dipped galvanized and aluminum cylinders.
Pete
halocline
Contributor
Definitely do not strip the tanks, I suspect chrpai thought they were AL tanks. As Pete mentioned, the factory Faber finish is pretty rugged and there's no way you'll get anything like that on your own. If they're scratched and rusting at the scratches, I'd touch up the bare spots with ZRC galvilite after removing the rust. If it's just dings in the paint itself I'd live with it. My faber tank is rusting in one place; where the hydro is stamped. But it's pretty marked up from use.
Eric Sedletzky
Contributor
I believe they used a true LP (linear polyurethane) paint on those out of the factory.
The closest thing or maybe what they used would be Awl Grip. Go to a marine store or West Marine online or do a google search.
It's a true polyurethane, 1 to 1 paint to hardener and 25% reducer. Very nasty stuff, burns your eyes like hell, runs easy, takes forever to dry, but is the toughest known paint to date. They have many stock colors available. I have to warn you, it's expensive. If you get it make sure you get the manual and follow it religiously.
They use it on aircraft and yachts/boats.
The closest thing or maybe what they used would be Awl Grip. Go to a marine store or West Marine online or do a google search.
It's a true polyurethane, 1 to 1 paint to hardener and 25% reducer. Very nasty stuff, burns your eyes like hell, runs easy, takes forever to dry, but is the toughest known paint to date. They have many stock colors available. I have to warn you, it's expensive. If you get it make sure you get the manual and follow it religiously.
They use it on aircraft and yachts/boats.
chrpai
Contributor
Sorry for the bad suggestion. I have more experience with 3AL then 3AA. My scubapro / faber 95 doesn't have any paint. I wonder if it was sold that way of if someone hit it up with ZRC after stripping??
I'll have to get Sixx2Life to school me.... haven't seen him around lately.
I'll have to get Sixx2Life to school me.... haven't seen him around lately.
OP
As I said they are not looking pretty. I rather have them look like that 5 years after I repaint them, but not to continue to have them get worse and worse.
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