oxygen tank death

[michael-fisch]

One interesting side note, I recently learned of a shop in Europe that removes DIN valves by screwing a tool into the DIN fitting, rather than using a wrench. My local dive shop still just uses a big adjustable. I had considered firing up my Clausing Colchester & cutting the DIN threads into a piece of bar stock, so that I could have a tool like the shop in Europe, but I have concerns about the O-ring seating face getting damaged under stress caused by that kind of tool. I'm still kicking that idea around in the back of my head.

Been doing it that way for over 30 years. Most DIN Valves do not have outside flat surfaces, at least in Europe, so that is the approved way to remove DIN (G5/8") valves. Since front corners on the round bar stock are rounded off slighty to make engaging the rod easier there is no way to damage the flat at the back of the G5/8" fitting. Removing the valve is easy too - insert the bar into the valve, lay the tank down on rug covered surface and roll the tank with your foot - hard. If the valve doesn't loosen up (happens often on taper threaded valves using teflon tape or lead boots) repeat a couple of times.

Michael

 

[Wookie]

I'm familiar with the standards in the nuc industry. I can understand your perspective based on that background.

While I agree that making a custom tool to fit a specific valve would be the best possible option, I have found that a large enough, good quality adjustable, that has been properly tightened, will provide good results on valves in most cases. I am more apt to reach for a large adjustable first, but if the valve did not want to play ball with me, I would not be opposed to then firing up the Bridgeport & milling a custom tool to get the job done, rather than rounding out the flanks of the valve.

One interesting side note, I recently learned of a shop in Europe that removes DIN valves by screwing a tool into the DIN fitting, rather than using a wrench. My local dive shop still just uses a big adjustable. I had considered firing up my Clausing Colchester & cutting the DIN threads into a piece of bar stock, so that I could have a tool like the shop in Europe, but I have concerns about the O-ring seating face getting damaged under stress caused by that kind of tool. I'm still kicking that idea around in the back of my head.

I have that tool if you want to copy it.

 

[PBcatfish]

I have that tool if you want to copy it.

Can you post a drawing?

 

[dberry]

Here's a pic of a regulator multi-tool from AirCo that has been in my lab decades longer than I've HAD a lab...

 

[Dan]

Here's a pic of a regulator multi-tool from AirCo that has been in my lab decades longer than I've HAD a lab...View attachment 545378

We are talking about cylinder valve, which would require torque wrench with long arm, not such regulator wrench.

 

[TrimixToo]

Been doing it that way for over 30 years. Most DIN Valves do not have outside flat surfaces, at least in Europe, so that is the approved way to remove DIN (G5/8") valves. Since front corners on the round bar stock are rounded off slighty to make engaging the rod easier there is no way to damage the flat at the back of the G5/8" fitting. Removing the valve is easy too - insert the bar into the valve, lay the tank down on rug covered surface and roll the tank with your foot - hard. If the valve doesn't loosen up (happens often on taper threaded valves using teflon tape or lead boots) repeat a couple of times.

Michael

Wow. All my valves are DIN. Time to fire up the lathe and make a tool. 316SS for this, I think...thanks for posting this!

 

[Wookie]

Wow. All my valves are DIN. Time to fire up the lathe and make a tool. 316SS for this, I think...thanks for posting this!

Mine is aluminum. Softer than plated brass.

 

[Wookie]

Can you post a drawing?

I will try to post a picture of it. It’s base metal is 6061 hex bar stock, maybe 1”, maybe 1 1/4”. The end is a perfect hemisphere, with DIN male threads.

Here is one like it, with a different business end.

 

[michael-fisch]

If at all possible, the bars should be made longer, making it easier to get the torque needed to remove valves. Mine is almost 24" long (please don't get started with the usual "mine is longer than yours"). Making impact tools out of aluminum is also a no-no, the ability of alum to cold weld into the threads will not result in being a happy camper.

Michael

 

[happy-diver]

Great site

DIN Valve Removal Tool Travel Version