Optimal lift capacity of a wing with a single tank in warm saltwater

[rhwestfall]

The most beneficial weight check methods I learned was to (1) cross your legs [it stops inadvertent finning], (2) cross your arms on your chest [prevents hand sculling]. you should sink to "mask level", very slightly rising and falling with inhale/exhale cycles...

The other thing is the tendency to inhale a bunch just before you go under. It is a natural reaction, but really adds buoyancy...

 

[Lorenzoid]

1) What type of BCD are you using with the 17lbs? BCD's with padding will need more lead to initially sink them due to trapped air in the padding, in addition to plain old material densities.

That was my first thought, too, but when I went back and re-read the original post, he clearly says "wing," implying it is a backplate-and-wing rig, not a padded BCD. Perhaps @WKenny can confirm.

 

[NorCalDM]

Your question is more complicated than you think. There are several variables that go into proper weighting and lift needed. Below is my weighting and wing size base on my body and suit.

Me: 6'0" and 185 lbs.
Warm salt water:
3mm full suit, Aluminum B/P with 18# wing and standard aluminum cylinder = 4-6# added lead.
5mm full suit Aluminum B/P with 18# wing and standard aluminum cylinder = 8-10# added lead.

Coldish salt water:
8mm full suit with attached hood, Stainless Steel B/P with 30# wing and neutral aluminum cylinder 10-12# added lead. More lift than I need.
8mm full suit with attached hood, Stainless Steel B/P with 30# wing and standard aluminum cylinder 14-16# added lead. More lift than I need.

I have varying lead for each as it depends on how old my suit is "lower weight old suit, higher weight new suit".

 

[scubadada]

The most beneficial weight check methods I learned was to (1) cross your legs [it stops inadvertent finning], (2) cross your arms on your chest [prevents hand sculling]. you should sink to "mask level", very slightly rising and falling with inhale/exhale cycles...

The other thing is the tendency to inhale a bunch just before you go under. It is a natural reaction, but really adds buoyancy...

The best weight check is at your safety stop or last deco stop on your final ascent You should be able to hold your stop with no air in your BC at an empty tank, 500 psi in an AL80 or equivalent in your cylinder. You should be able to make a nice, controlled ascent up to the surface. All other weight checks are an approximation. You should be a bit heavy at the descent due to the weight of gas in your cylinder, a little over 5 lbs for an AL80

 

[Jim Lapenta]

For diving in warm saltwater, with a 3 mm shorty wetsuit, and 17 pounds of weight, what is the optimal lift capacity of a wing for a single tank considering safety at the surface and streamlining for minimal resistance underwater? Thank you for taking the time to respond.

Bill Kenny

I dive a 32lb wing regardless of fresh or salt. The one I use (HOG 32 bungee wing) has enough lift for any single tank configuration I may be diving from an AL80 to LP119, as well as enough lift should I need to come to the assistance of another diver who may be overweighted.

The one question I ask every time this comes up as regards to streamlining, how friggin fast are you swimming that this is a concern?
Or what kind of godawful currents are you in that a few square inches of fabric is that big of a deal?

It simply slays me that divers try to get the smallest wing possible in the belief that it is going to make one iota of difference to the average recreational diver. In terms of SAC rate, swimming speed, etc. it won't make one bit of noticeable difference.

Other than some ridiculously oversized single wings (40lbs and up) anything under 35lbs is going to work. It won't taco to the point of being dangerous unless you are diving a single 40 or LP50, it is certainly not going to cause any noticeable drag in the majority of conditions.
If you need to go that fast that it would, get a scooter and wing size won't matter much at all.

 

[carrythatweight]

I cannot agree more with @Jim Lapenta. Having used a few wings ranging from 18-40lbs for warm saltwater diving, albeit in my limited experience, the difference while underwater (diving) is absolutely negligible. Even if you only need 18lbs of lift, having a bit extra is certainly welcomed when at the surface, especially with chop. I am an average recreational diver and appreciate the streamlined approach of a BP/W and the practicality of many DIR applications but am also aware that there's no need to go to extremes when it comes to having a streamlined rig for my use cases. Learn from SB (as I have enormously), apply what's needed for your use cases, and enjoy diving!

Note: getting weighting right may be difficult without proper guidance. Steve Martin has a good guide on how to start with the process (video).

Hope this helps. Cheers.

 

[lexvil]

I’ll go ahead and disagree, a smaller wing travels better and I can tell the difference in the glide part of a frog kick, the real question is it worth it to you to have separate gear for cold or warm water, to me it’s worth it but is not cheap.

 

[Ayisha]

For diving in warm saltwater, with a 3 mm shorty wetsuit, and 17 pounds of weight, what is the optimal lift capacity of a wing for a single tank considering safety at the surface and streamlining for minimal resistance underwater? Thank you for taking the time to respond.

Bill Kenny

A wing with anywhere from 25 - 35 lbs of lift is pretty standard and will be fine.

I also wonder about the 17 lbs. I was once told, "your head is your rudder, look down at where you're going".

Take a long drawn out exhale. When you inhale, make it short and exhale slowly again. If your inhale and exhale are even or your inhale is bigger, you might not go anywhere.

In the end, you need what you need, but descending as efficiently as possible can help.

 

[Bob DBF]

Other than some ridiculously oversized single wings (40lbs and up)...

Well I have an Oxycheq 40# donut wing. When I switched to a BP/W I just bought the same lift I had on my jacket. My buddy had a 35# (I believe they were making them back then) and visually we could see no difference, except the size tag. A other thing I noticed was the way the wing is held by the tank, I doubt it actually has 40# of lift, since it barely floats a full MP 120, BP, and 4# of lead.

My other concern would be having reserve buoyancy if needed in an emergency. An 18# wing may be fine for you, but not if you have to bring up a holed BC. 30 to 35 would be good for most.

 

[TheRealScubaSteve]

I’ll go ahead and disagree, a smaller wing travels better and I can tell the difference in the glide part of a frog kick, the real question is it worth it to you to have separate gear for cold or warm water, to me it’s worth it but is not cheap.

What is your wing lift swing between the two?

I do have different wings for cold and warm water, though I have not noticed a difference in drag while frog kicking. I primarily use 23/38 lb DRIS wing, which only changes the bladder so it makes sense that I wouldn't feel a change.