Let's assume the tank has sufficient capacity, with or without the '+' rating and get that out of the way. If the tank is too small, it's too small.
What you are looking for, if you are diving in cold water, is a tank that is light and as negative as possible. That way you can reduce the weight on your belt and have more of it over your back. That's why the HP 100's are so popular. They weigh less than an Al 80 (and a lot less than a "Neutral" 80) so you don't have to carry the weight and they are 6# more negative at the end of the dive. Oh, and they carry more air; even if they aren't completely filled.
You need to look at tank buoyancy charts like this one:
Scuba Cylinder Specification Chart from Huron Scuba, Ann Arbor Michigan
In no particular order, consider capacity, weight, buoyancy, diameter, pressure and length.
Capacity: you need enough air for the dive
Weight: why hump more than you have to
Buoyancy: within reason, a more negative tank can be a benefit
Diameter: some folks don't like the 8" tanks and readjusting cam bands can be a PITA
Pressure: can you get a complete fill? Low pressure tanks can always be filled properly
Length: too short and the weight is too high, too long and it bumps into things
LP72's aren't really very negative and, I believe, end up neutral or slightly positive. They are great for warm water and fun in the pool. I have one and plan to pick up a couple more.
Worthington HP100s start out 10# negative and end up at 2.5# negative when empty. See:
XS Scuba Worthington Steel Cylinder Specifications
I have some reservations about LP tanks in terms of capacity versus weight. For the moment, I am in the HP camp for cold water diving.
Of course, the problem with steel tanks is cost. I can buy 2 Al 80's for the cost of 1 HP 100. Maybe I don't care if I have to wear 6# more weight just to wind up with only 80% as much air. Or, maybe I do...
Richard