Okay, Im still learning. Thanks to the guys that helped me with my MK 10 questions. I recently picked up an older MK5. I was initially confused because I couldnt put port plugs in the two (2) High pressure ports. Then I discovered that they are also 3/8 ports. Ive learned of, and located the adapters. That doesnt look like a big problem. First question is: are there any issues or tricks with using the port plug adapter? Moving on
. the reg has 4 LP Ports on the swivel head. The thing is looking a little rough, and it appears that someone put a screw driver or ice pick through the ambient pressure holes in an effort to disassemble the thing. Theres a pretty good scratch on the piston cap near the ambient port, and I initially thought it was cracked all the way through. I think it is alright, but Ill have a closer look when I take it apart. I havent opened it yet; my tools are on order. I was waiting for the 3/8 drive extension to be in stock. Anyway, my tools are on the way. I was looking at the yoke, and it appears that theres no way Im going to fit a 3/8 drive extension through this yoke. (Too small). Naturally, my question is how do you work around this? Assuming I can use a standard wrench of some type to disassemble the reg., how would I set the correct Torque when I reassemble the reg? Ive been learning and reading Vances book, and I probably bought more tools than I should have. Thanks in advance for any comments, and feedback.
Older Scubapro MK5
- Thread starter Manow
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halocline
Contributor
The scratches near the ambient ports are probably okay as long as there's no structural compromise. For the yoke, you probably have the older style yoke. Your best bet is to get a new heavier yoke if you can find one. Otherwise you'll have to find a 1/4" drive 1" socket to torque it, although I'm certain that many, many hundreds of techs have just tightened these with a big adjustable wrench and tried to get close to the specified torque. You're still stuck with the old yoke if you go that route, and while I've seen people use them on 3000 PSI tanks, I wouldn't want to, especially on a regular basis. Eventually it could extrude and leak.
Shftrdog
Contributor
The scratch should not be a problem but that would be your first concern.
Another way to deal with the 3/8 hp ports is to simply get a HP hose with 3/8 end. These can still be purchased and using them avoids the the need for an adapter. I know Bryan at Vintage Double hose will get them for you...don't know if he keeps them in stock.
As far as the adapter is concerned, you just screw it into the reg, gently snugg it down then install the hose, snugging it as well. There is no need to crank down on either fitting.
An alternative the the socket and torque wrench is to use a crows foot and torque wrench.....me, I just snugg it down and go. Just like on the hoses, it's the Oring that does the sealing so torque has no real bearing on if it seals or not. Over torquing is the major concern, under torque is not much of an issue as long as it does not come loose.
As far as the adapter is concerned, you just screw it into the reg, gently snugg it down then install the hose, snugging it as well. There is no need to crank down on either fitting.
An alternative the the socket and torque wrench is to use a crows foot and torque wrench.....me, I just snugg it down and go. Just like on the hoses, it's the Oring that does the sealing so torque has no real bearing on if it seals or not. Over torquing is the major concern, under torque is not much of an issue as long as it does not come loose.
I'm dealing with this very same problem myself with a small-yoke MK5. So far these are the methods that I've identified that may work for getting the yoke retainer on or off:
1- Big adjustable wrench. This should work well for breaking loose a tough retainer, but like halocline said, you won't be able to torque it when you reinstall.
2- 3/8" breaker bar with a 1" socket that may have to be ground flat enough to allow the breaker bar under the yoke. This has pretty much the same advantages and disadvanges as the big adjustable wrench.
3- 3/8" drive 1" socket with a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter. This should allow you to get a 1/4" extension through the yoke screw hole. You will probably be very limited in the amount of force you can put on the yoke retainer with this method so you will probably have to use #1 or #2 above to break it loose. I'm sure the 1/4" drive would be fine for applying 22 ft-lbs of torque for installing the retainer though.
1- Big adjustable wrench. This should work well for breaking loose a tough retainer, but like halocline said, you won't be able to torque it when you reinstall.
2- 3/8" breaker bar with a 1" socket that may have to be ground flat enough to allow the breaker bar under the yoke. This has pretty much the same advantages and disadvanges as the big adjustable wrench.
3- 3/8" drive 1" socket with a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter. This should allow you to get a 1/4" extension through the yoke screw hole. You will probably be very limited in the amount of force you can put on the yoke retainer with this method so you will probably have to use #1 or #2 above to break it loose. I'm sure the 1/4" drive would be fine for applying 22 ft-lbs of torque for installing the retainer though.
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