Old US Divers equipment
- Thread starter Ron34
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The reg is still serviceable and might be worth $20-$30.
If the tanks are aluminium, scrap value.....I've only seen the big "professional" sticker on old aluminium tanks.
The gauge could be another $20.
If the tanks are aluminium, scrap value.....I've only seen the big "professional" sticker on old aluminium tanks.
The gauge could be another $20.
If it's in good condition a Conshelf XI will bring more than that to someone into older vintage regs. The second stage is the same one used on the Aquarius, Conshelf XII, and Conshelf XIV - it's a very good second stage and still readily serviced.
The Conshelf XI first stage is basically the same as the later XIV, it just has fewer LP ports, but it makes a great pony reg or inflation reg.
There is a LOT of hate here for older 6351 T-6 alloy tanks, but it's based entirely on ignorance. 6351-T6 alloy tanks are subject to sustained load cracking (SLC) but in the 12 years since eddy current inspection protocols were implemented there has not been a single catastrophic failure of a properly inspected 6351-TS alloy tank and there are still about 8 million of them in service in scuba and medical O2 use.
A few years ago the DOT finalized inspection regulations for them based on over 7 years of field experience and reports after eddy current inspections were implemented based on a recommendation by Luxfer. Luxfer required eddy current inspections every 18 months and in the scuba industry it was (and continues to be) for all practical purposes done every 12 months as part of the VIP. The DOT however requires an eddy current inspection only at re-qualification as SLCs propagate very slowly and will be caught in the next re-qualification (and the intervening annual scuba VIPs are just extra protection).
Still the tanks will need a hydro test so you need to deduct the cost of that from their value of around $100 - so they would be worth perhaps $70-$75 each. If they are in great condition, you may again more of them from a vintage scuba diver/collector.
The Conshelf XI first stage is basically the same as the later XIV, it just has fewer LP ports, but it makes a great pony reg or inflation reg.
There is a LOT of hate here for older 6351 T-6 alloy tanks, but it's based entirely on ignorance. 6351-T6 alloy tanks are subject to sustained load cracking (SLC) but in the 12 years since eddy current inspection protocols were implemented there has not been a single catastrophic failure of a properly inspected 6351-TS alloy tank and there are still about 8 million of them in service in scuba and medical O2 use.
A few years ago the DOT finalized inspection regulations for them based on over 7 years of field experience and reports after eddy current inspections were implemented based on a recommendation by Luxfer. Luxfer required eddy current inspections every 18 months and in the scuba industry it was (and continues to be) for all practical purposes done every 12 months as part of the VIP. The DOT however requires an eddy current inspection only at re-qualification as SLCs propagate very slowly and will be caught in the next re-qualification (and the intervening annual scuba VIPs are just extra protection).
Still the tanks will need a hydro test so you need to deduct the cost of that from their value of around $100 - so they would be worth perhaps $70-$75 each. If they are in great condition, you may again more of them from a vintage scuba diver/collector.
Sounds like you have a bunch of the good stuff. Follow the guidelines for having your old aluminum cylinders tested. Any LDS should be able to rebuild your Connie, it will give decades of service when maintained, hell it'll give decades of service if abused (but do maintain it). The gauges, if in good condition, shouldn't give you any trouble, but I suggest that you do what many of us vintage divers do, use a modern computer on your wrist, and the analog gauges as a secondary source of dive information. Fins, look for dry rot, straps or springs can be changed or retro-fitted.
Thanks for the input.
I do not think the tanks are an alloy. I thought they were a professional grade. i know they are lined inside with epoxy and the exterior has a galvanized coating under the yellow epoxy outer coating. They are heavy. They also have the Kam EZ Pac. Do steel tanks get about the same price as the alloys?
As for the regulators, they have only been used about 12 times and are in good condition.
Again, thanks for the input.
I do not think the tanks are an alloy. I thought they were a professional grade. i know they are lined inside with epoxy and the exterior has a galvanized coating under the yellow epoxy outer coating. They are heavy. They also have the Kam EZ Pac. Do steel tanks get about the same price as the alloys?
As for the regulators, they have only been used about 12 times and are in good condition.
Again, thanks for the input.
Scared Silly
Contributor
Sounds like your tanks are old steel LP72s. Which depending on condition can sell for $50-$100. The epoxy liner can be problematic if it has bubbled (read the tank will need to be tumbled).
Based on the OP using "professional" I assume they are aluminum 80s. US Divers started marketing them in their "new line" of equipment in 1973 with the word "professional" located in a chevron on the tank. The aluminum 50s were sold as "Navy Mk II" tanks with the Mk II in the chevron. A couple years later they sold a 3000 psi aluminum 72 as the "Mk I". The US Divers steel tanks just had the round US Divers label.
If they are steel tanks they will have "3AA2250 stamped on them on the shoulder. If they are aluminum tanks they will have an "E" or "SP" with a 4 digit number after it as well as "3000" for the service pressure on the shoulder.
US Divers offerred steel tanks in galvanized, black and yellow colors. The black and yellow tanks in the late 60s and 870s were covered with a "Tuff Koate" vinyl finish. It was very durable however, when cracked or holed it would allow water in next to the steel and potentially cause corrosion so if the coating is compromised at all, it needs to be removed. It's not all that hard and 20-30 minutes with a box cutter will get it off. Most were galvanized underneath and if that's the case you'll have a excellent tank with the galvanizing in very good condition. Some however were not galvanized under the coating and I'd advise using a cold galvanizing finish on them to keep them rust free.
These steel tanks also had an internal epoxy or polyurethane coating and it tends to be dark enough to prevent proper inspection if the inside of the tank, and/or will have pin holes that can trap moisture. It should be removed and most RINS will not re-qualify the tank if it's still coated. It can be removed by tumbling, but it will take the better part of a week to get it all.
But...if the tanks actually say "Professional" on them they are either aluminum tanks or picked up an incorrect sticker along the way.
If they are steel tanks, once requalified they will easily be worth $100.
Rich Keller
Contributor
Donation is a good way to go but the Salvation Army would have no idea what to do with them. I can help you out with this, just ship them to me and I will take care of everything for you. Since it is a donation and I am such a nice guy I will not charge you anything for my service.
Thank you everyone for you input. I still cannot find the paperwork. I am sure they are steel because of the weight and a magnet stuck to the tanks with vigor. It has been over 40 years since I purchased them and I thought the tanks were rated "professional". Oh well, cannot rely on memory.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
xman_d
New
I just returned to diving after 25+ years and my old AL 80s passed all eddie current and hydro testing (purchased in 1972). I contacted the DOT and recieved a email letter stating that no end of life directive had been issued! I called the local dive shops around me and all said as long as they had all current testing, they would fill them! I also have a steel tank from the 60's that is still in service that I use as a hang tank or on shallow dives.
In the 70's I used a Aqua Lung double hose and also a conshelf J - I still have both. In Michigan the water temp is around 40 under 60' year around and I never had the problem of free flow. Seems the new reg's need added cold water kits? I have decided to have my reg's rebuilt excluding the first stage of my Con-J due to lack of parts! I am looking for a con-14 as replacement and also a 14 2nd stage for the octo. I like the old stuff after researching the new stuff! Free flow was never an issue - I was taught to pulse air into my BC and to fill it while exhaling or to use my exhale to manually fill it and that made sense to me rather than using tank air! I may have been told that it was to minimize the chance of freeze up but I can't remember that being said and by dive buddy from back then does not recall free flow issues either. FYI- he is a scubapro diver! Happy diving xman_d.
In the 70's I used a Aqua Lung double hose and also a conshelf J - I still have both. In Michigan the water temp is around 40 under 60' year around and I never had the problem of free flow. Seems the new reg's need added cold water kits? I have decided to have my reg's rebuilt excluding the first stage of my Con-J due to lack of parts! I am looking for a con-14 as replacement and also a 14 2nd stage for the octo. I like the old stuff after researching the new stuff! Free flow was never an issue - I was taught to pulse air into my BC and to fill it while exhaling or to use my exhale to manually fill it and that made sense to me rather than using tank air! I may have been told that it was to minimize the chance of freeze up but I can't remember that being said and by dive buddy from back then does not recall free flow issues either. FYI- he is a scubapro diver! Happy diving xman_d.
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