Oceanic Shadow Mask Fogging Problem

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No - the need never arose. It works. I'm a bit puzzled as to the advice about letting anything dry out on the glass. Leftovers on the surface provides a foothold for the "fog molecules". One last problem could be leftover sun screen. It's a bugger to clean out. Maybe you should check if it's a specific place on the glass that fogs up every time. If so it's probably tainted somehow. If not it's more likely to be about the procedure.
 
Exactly my point. Do NOT let it dry out between rinsing out the spit (or whatever bottled solution you have used) and putting it on to dive. I normally try to keep the mask full of water after rinsing and then just empty it before I put it on my face. If it gets emptied out accidently (boat rocking or someone knocks it) then I either fill it again straight away or clean it with spit again if it's been empty for longer than a few seconds.
I have tried using mask clear, anti fog type bottled solutions instead of spitting in the mask but have never found it to offer any benefits (and I usually manged to lose the bottle somewhere on the boat after a couple of days)
 
Sorry to hear that. I have no problem with my Oceanic Shadow at all. I simply spit and it works best for me.

I have been told that frameless masks are subject to fogging problem for those who exhale alot from the nose since the window is much closer to the face. I am one of those dives who exhale alot from the nose but I have never experience such problem.

Love mine.
 
hmm I thought the purpose of applying spit or whatever defogger was to let it dry and form this layer above the mask glass, so that it would prevent fogging.
But as mentioned, water, spit, water and off to diving..I don't quite get how the spit or defogger can help in this case. *confused*
And in the case of a defogger, like aquaseal's sea gold, I'd just apply it on, (let it set/dry ofr awhile), then just rinse it -> so that the excess it rinsed off, and I only retain a thin layer of defog on the mask glass? Is it how it works?
 
dsong9:
And in the case of a defogger, like aquaseal's sea gold, I'd just apply it on, (let it set/dry ofr awhile), then just rinse it -> so that the excess it rinsed off, and I only retain a thin layer of defog on the mask glass? Is it how it works?

That's how it works whether it is is spit, defogger, or baby shampoo. Make sure the window surface is dry when you are applying the solution. Otherwise this "film" effect is limited.........possible but the effect is limite as the solution is somehow diluted with the amount of water that is already on the window surface.
 
dsong9:
hmm I thought the purpose of applying spit or whatever defogger was to let it dry and form this layer above the mask glass, so that it would prevent fogging.

not so much create a layer, but the solution (spit, boogers, shampoo, seaGold, whatever) is there to fill in the "tiny" cracks so that the FOG MOLECULES can't form. kinda like waxing your car so the water beads off of it.
 
"Beading" means fog (which is very small beads). The idea is to clean the mask so no beads form on the lens. To do this, the surface tension of the water, which is in contact with the mask, must be reduced. This is done by cleaning the mask with (as was suggested) alcohol, dilute ammonia, or toothpaste. Then, a detergent like Joy must be used. Water should lay on the glass without forming small puddles, or worse, beads. While the glass is still wet, exhale into the mask. If pockets of fog form on the glass, spit on the glass, rinse, dry, and try exhaling again. If any fog forms anywhere and remains for more than a second or two, repeat sudsing with Joy. Don't feel alone, all new masks have this problem. Once, you are able to eliminate the patches of fog which form due to your exhalations, the big problem is over and from then on a routine spit wash prior to diving is all that is necessary.
 
I have some doubts about what causes the new mask problem in the first place. If the problem is silicone contamination then the glass should not be so resistant to cleaning, and adhesion of the surfactants in detergent and spit. I've tried wiping the mask lens with ENSOLV with no better success than toothpaste. Any cleaner seems to require repeated applications. Now, ENSOLV will normally cut through silicone residues in a second. Besides, who would spray a silicone rubber mask with silicone spray? That's a no-no. Maybe, the new lens problem has something to do with the way the glass is manufactured. One might surmise that Corning, Inc could suggest a simple procedure.
 
I pulled a new mask and tried cleaning it (today). Nothing had much of an effect and meso really tried a bunch of stuff. Then, I rubbed the glass with Colgate "minty gel" (tarter control). Rinsed, then sloshed the lens with white vinegar. rinsed and spit washed. Did not dry, (that cleans off the saliva chemicals remaining on the glass, don't do dat). Toothpastes clean your teeth by abrasion. Most pastes contain diatoms or some other abrasive, especially "tarter control" types. I figure that whatever is on the glass is not sensitive to organic solvent, hardly sensitive to alcohol or detergent. The stuff on the lens must be some kind of hard, inert substance. If it is not sensitive to organic solvents and detergent maybe acid or abrasive will attack it. Anyway, the gel and white vinegar seemed to help. I can't guarantee you will get the same results because the mask was not "virgin" before it was hit with the vinegar and toothpaste. However, the breath test showed no fog and that *&*^%& mask had not shone a clear view in the previous 7 tests.
 

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