Trip Report North Sulawesi Trip Report Part 1

[Luko]

Stayed with them on Bunaken well over 12yrs ago. The fan room was rustic and comfortable but food was inadequate(quantity). We were given an extra fried egg for breakfast for unknown reason. I remember one evening the late comers, because of night dive, were NOT given food at all!!!!! They ran out of food so they said. The buffet styled food was for both the lodgers and the staffs!!!! BTW, the full board rate was only US$12.00 per day and we were quite suspicious why it was so low.

Same experience (and rates) 20 years ago! it was a battle around one fish at the buffet.
We coudln't get any milk in the coffee at breakfast, while the staff was enjoying their own bottle in front of us.
There was no light in the bathroom (mandi style), you had to go with a torch at night.
Nobody seemed to care that much, so we dived with another shop (SDQ closed by now), Bastiano's inhouse ozzie dive instructor was mad about that, we left Bunaken after 3 days.

 

[stepfen]

To what extent is this a North Sulawesi thing vs. other mainstream Indonesian dive destinations? Are people staying at land-based resorts in Raja Ampat, Komodo, Bali and others likely to have a similar experience?

I take it a pump bottle of Deep Woods Off isn't enough to keep them at bay?

Mosquitoes are bad enough; I can't just imagine someone blundering into your situation unexpectedly after reading about malaria and other mosquito-borne illnesses.

I've been to Raja Ampat twice, 3 weeks in total. Land based both times (homestay not fancy resort) and I can't remember seeing a single mosquito there!!! My son (3 years old back then) who is a mosquito magnet, didn't get a single bite during his week long stay!! That was amazing!!

Both times it was first week of December or so. Maybe things are different on different seasons.

 

[Centrals]

Same experience (and rates) 20 years ago! it was a battle around one fish at the buffet.
We coudln't get any milk in the coffee at breakfast, while the staff was enjoying their own bottle in front of us.
There was no light in the bathroom (mandi style), you had to go with a torch at night.
Nobody seemed to care that much, so we dived with another shop (SDQ closed by now), Bastiano's inhouse ozzie dive instructor was mad about that, we left Bunaken after 3 days.

We were also diving with Frank at SDQ and Bastianos was one of the place nominated.
When we complaint about the inadequacy of the food the instructor from the Bastiano said we have no right to complain because we did not dive there!!!! I pointed it out to him that we were full paying customers at the resort and we have every right to complain about the resort.

 

[acidrush]

Firstly, TulAmben that is for the correct spelling. It is located on the North east shore of Bali island.

Tulamben stands at the foot of the Agung sacred volcano, meaniing black sand and volcanic pebble beaches where all sorts of critters lie in the sand. This is another type of Lembeh with unique sorts of nudibranchs specific to the area like Doto greenamyeri aka the "donut doto" you won't find anywhere else in Indonesia or in the world except in PNG.


Agung is also the cause of Tulamben's fame which is the USAT Liberty wreck (the Agung's eruption and lava flow in 63 pushed the boat away and sank it for a beginner dive (5 to 28m deep) starting from the shore , it is well known for the growth of coral and its resident bumphead parrotfish school.

USAT Liberty Bali

Liberty Wreck in Tulamben Bali

www.flickr.com

This particular nudi has been spotted in singapore too. If its seen in singapore, its probably more widespread just not reported.

https://lkcnhm.nus.edu.sg/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/app/uploads/2017/09/sbr2017-068.pdf

 

[Luko]

This particular nudi has been spotted in singapore too. If its seen in singapore, its probably more widespread just not reported.

I've also read that, it has been seen since a few years but as we say in french "one swallow doesn't make a summer".
FYI it was also reported in Sangeang which has extremely similar grounds to Tulamben at the foot of a volcano. On the other hand it was never spotted in areas like Lembeh nor Ambon bay where the sand bottoms are screened everyday by hundreds of divers (at least for Lembeh) and eagle eyed guides (who sometimes found endemic species).

It's interesting because it raises two points :

Consistency .
I am not aware Pulau Hantu would attract divers from all around the planet to spot a specific nudi because the odds of seeing it are close to 100% like in Melasti or Kwanji.
There's a difference between spotting a nudi at some place and having it seen regularly in one place for years, as I remember diving Tulamben those 12 past years there always were donuts doto in Tulamben just like in Milne bay PNG.
Take Mola mola or thresher sharks for instance, they're all over the world though people would rather come to Bali or Malapascua to spot them because the odds and ease of seeing them are much important than anywhere else.

Distribution.
Seeing a specie in one place doesn't mean it is more widespread in its surroundings : Take for instance the case of the Banggai Cardinalfish seen in NW Bali that is normally endemic to Sulawesi.
The moment it populated Secret bay didn't mean it is spread out all around, because the reason of its presence there is very anecdotic.
Why is doto greenmayeri present in Milne bay and specific 2 or 3 spots in Tulamben (not all of Tulamben spots), rarely seen in Sangeang, then suddenly in Singapore .... no one knows, do you?
As you may know lots of people have been interested those 10 past years in nudibranch, tens of thousands of nudibranch tracking dives have been performed at very well known Indonesian dive spots, lots of books written, taxonomia of nudibranchs recalculated through 100's of new nudibranch findings, on the other hand I haven't heard/read of other spots where this specific nudi was seen while it is VERY EASY to spot it knowing that it lives on only one hydroid habitat and that it is not a seasonal nudi unlike some others, besides that if you spot one you will see more of 'em. They're not loners.
Have you heard about other sightings ? I haven't while I am reading lots about nudibranches.
If not I wouldn't dare saying It's widespread elsewhere, nothing more than speculation, which is the contrary of science.

 

[chillyinCanada]

When I was there, I told @Searcaigh Whenever I go out to shower I have to keep the water running and constantly move to stay under the water. Or, the point of my story……when I’m on the shitter I’m constantly swinging my legs and arms wildly and rocking back and forth to fend potential mosquitos. Taking a dump has never been more stressful. I’m super allergic to them.

They also had a pontohi seahorse on the house reef.

I’m lucky I don’t ever have ear issues even in Bangka and Lembeh. I’m in Sorong and making my way back home slowly.

@jjmochi it was @Luko who mentioned Bunaken walls were walls and turtles and more walls and the walls were repetitive. He posted a comparison photo of typical Bangka vs typical Bunaken photos which is what sold me on going to Bangka instead of Bunaken. I also remember he said he could dive Sahaung all day and everyday. I’d agree with that, as will most dive guides around various dive areas I’ve spoken to.

I've said the very same!

 

[Centrals]

If not I wouldn't dare saying It's widespread elsewhere, nothing more than speculation, which is the contrary of science.

They could well be found in many places that most divers if not all do not go.
There is not much study/science on each nudibranch species because there are so many of them.
How many marine biologist or similar would get a research grant to study it? Probably not that many.

 

[chillyinCanada]

Don't go there Centrals. It is off topic for this thread.

 

[Blackcrusader]

Great read.

Love the Fire Gobi photo. I've only been able to get a couple of photos of them over the years.

 

[jjmochi]

When I was there, I told @Searcaigh Whenever I go out to shower I have to keep the water running and constantly move to stay under the water. Or, the point of my story……when I’m on the shitter I’m constantly swinging my legs and arms wildly and rocking back and forth to fend potential mosquitos. Taking a dump has never been more stressful. I’m super allergic to them.

They also had a pontohi seahorse on the house reef.

I’m lucky I don’t ever have ear issues even in Bangka and Lembeh. I’m in Sorong and making my way back home slowly.

@jjmochi it was @Luko who mentioned Bunaken walls were walls and turtles and more walls and the walls were repetitive. He posted a comparison photo of typical Bangka vs typical Bunaken photos which is what sold me on going to Bangka instead of Bunaken. I also remember he said he could dive Sahaung all day and everyday. I’d agree with that, as will most dive guides around various dive areas I’ve spoken to.

If it helps I find heat (like really really hot water) usually kills the itch on mosquito bites... heard there's a magical device that zaps it using a similar principal and it disappears in a day but I've yet to find it. So far I've been using 25% DEET liberally and dipping a spoon in boiling water and applying it to the few bites I have to kill the itch. I now pretend I don't see the other nasties (spiders etc) and hope they just go away after housecleaning. I'm pretty comfy with geckos now haha and actually find them cute.

Ah that's right, I remember that thread now. Can't find it anymore but I recall the consensus was Bangka > Bunaken unless you just want to see turtles and there being a lot of photos haha. I think I'll leave my plan as is since I can always go back now that I'm based in SG and it's an easy 2h direct flight.