Plutonist
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Concerning Lembeh: Note that muck diving is literally that and not for everyone. It's heaven for macro photographers.
Question Indonesia itinerary August 2025
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We have never done muck diving before, however just bought a sony a6700 recently with housing etc, so would like to try
Luko
Contributor
Note that afterwards if your plan is still to stay in Tulamben/Bali you'll have access to the same sort of muck diving in black sand.
Hence if you don't know whether muck is your kind of dive, you may want not to stay that long in Lembeh (while Muck/black sand dive is more or less the only type of dive that is offered in Lembeh, you can opt for different type of dives in Tulamben in case that doesn't suit your tastes.).
cetacean
Contributor
@Lu Y
You are getting lots of good feedback so I'll add a bit...
Singapore (the city and airport) are infinitely better than Jakarta (both city and airport). Singapore is modern, well run, safe, interesting (some would even say it touches on boring). Jakarta is best avoided for layovers. It's okay to connect through (so flying to SIngapore, stopping for a day or two) then continuing on to Jakarta to transit elsewhere in Indonesia is fine (this has been our standard approach when entering Indonesia for most of our dive trips in the region, dating back ~20 years). I lived in Singapore for several years so I am biased, but there is a massive difference.
Re: Komodo - this is a world class dive destination with several one of a kind dive experiences. I haven't seen any comments suggesting you are not planning on visiting Komodo, but in case if you had any doubts - dispell them. Komodo is easily one of the top dive destinations in the Coral Triangle (and likely will be the highlight of your trip). One comment - do this by liveaboard, it's easier, the schedules work better getting to/from the dive sites, and you will visit sites that many of the day boats won't be able to travel to. There are people on the forum that will argue otherwise, don't listen to them
Re; northern Sulawesi - there are many (land-based) options across Bunaken, Bangka, and Lembeh. If the transfers are much easier through Murex in each location, go with that option if you would like.
If you want a taste of the very best of the region I would recommend both Siladen (Bunaken) and Lembeh Resort (in Lembeh). Each of these may cost a bit more, but the service and guides are worth it.
Others may suggest otherwise, I would consider limiting yourself to just two locations in N. Sulawesi. I would look at diving 3-4 days at Siladen, and then 3 days in Lembeh. Transfers can be arranged by either resort. Gangga has some really good diving, but after diving Komodo it will be a bit underwheliming. The Bangka area does have one unique animal not easily found in most of Indonesia - the opportunity to see dugongs while diving. This is a very rare occurance (here, more common in other areas, including the Red Sea). In 50+ dives in the region we've come across a dugong underwater only twice.
Last - I think you mentioned you've experienced mantas before in Hanifaru. Snorkeling with Mantas in Hanifaru is akin to seeing animals in the zoo at feeding time (yes, I know they are not penned in, but the number of snorkelers is crazy). Coming across mantas in Komodo (at cleaning stations) is a very different experience (as is watching them feed at some sites). Hanifaru is famous for the number of mantas you can see, but it does not represent what most "in the wild" experiences divers look for with mantas.
Thanks a lot, this is super helpful.@Lu Y
You are getting lots of good feedback so I'll add a bit...
Singapore (the city and airport) are infinitely better than Jakarta (both city and airport). Singapore is modern, well run, safe, interesting (some would even say it touches on boring). Jakarta is best avoided for layovers. It's okay to connect through (so flying to SIngapore, stopping for a day or two) then continuing on to Jakarta to transit elsewhere in Indonesia is fine (this has been our standard approach when entering Indonesia for most of our dive trips in the region, dating back ~20 years). I lived in Singapore for several years so I am biased, but there is a massive difference.
Re: Komodo - this is a world class dive destination with several one of a kind dive experiences. I haven't seen any comments suggesting you are not planning on visiting Komodo, but in case if you had any doubts - dispell them. Komodo is easily one of the top dive destinations in the Coral Triangle (and likely will be the highlight of your trip). One comment - do this by liveaboard, it's easier, the schedules work better getting to/from the dive sites, and you will visit sites that many of the day boats won't be able to travel to. There are people on the forum that will argue otherwise, don't listen to them
Re; northern Sulawesi - there are many (land-based) options across Bunaken, Bangka, and Lembeh. If the transfers are much easier through Murex in each location, go with that option if you would like.
If you want a taste of the very best of the region I would recommend both Siladen (Bunaken) and Lembeh Resort (in Lembeh). Each of these may cost a bit more, but the service and guides are worth it.
Others may suggest otherwise, I would consider limiting yourself to just two locations in N. Sulawesi. I would look at diving 3-4 days at Siladen, and then 3 days in Lembeh. Transfers can be arranged by either resort. Gangga has some really good diving, but after diving Komodo it will be a bit underwheliming. The Bangka area does have one unique animal not easily found in most of Indonesia - the opportunity to see dugongs while diving. This is a very rare occurance (here, more common in other areas, including the Red Sea). In 50+ dives in the region we've come across a dugong underwater only twice.
Last - I think you mentioned you've experienced mantas before in Hanifaru. Snorkeling with Mantas in Hanifaru is akin to seeing animals in the zoo at feeding time (yes, I know they are not penned in, but the number of snorkelers is crazy). Coming across mantas in Komodo (at cleaning stations) is a very different experience (as is watching them feed at some sites). Hanifaru is famous for the number of mantas you can see, but it does not represent what most "in the wild" experiences divers look for with mantas.
Re layover, we will go follow the advice from this forum and go with Singapore.
Currently we are hesitating between Tumbak (3h drive South of Manado, there is 1 homestay with a French owner and he offers diving too), or Komodo. Has anyone been to Tumbak? We are considering it given no additional flight needed (Manado to Komodo would require an overnight in Bali which we are keen to avoid).
cetacean
Contributor
@Lu Y
Tumbak would be fine, as another place to dive in the Manado region, however - is there an option to extend your stay in either Lembeh or Bunaken? That will offer significantly better diving.
Re: Komodo - I will not push this too hard, but it's worth restating. Komodo is one of the best hanful of locations for diving in the world. Manado is good as well, but it's not Komodo (although Lembeh, specifically for macro critters draws people to return, esp. if they are underwater photographers).
Bunaken and Bangka are good - definitely worth doing. Consider this... diving Bunaken will likely lead you to want to return to the region maybe once more, the same will be true for Bangka (Lembeh has it's own unique draw for underwater photographers - for example, I've visited 5 times, all for u/w photopgraphy). By comparison, there are people that return to dive the Komodo region multiple times (there are people on this forum that have returned 7 or 8 times). That is because the diving is so consistently good.
If the cost it too high or the timing doesn't work that makes sense. Komodo is not too hard to get to, however each of those flights you are trying to avoid mean slightly more remoteness, which is directly correlated to the quality of the diving. Having said this, Komodo isn't really remote - and can seem a bit crowded in the harbor, etc. LoB's tend to spread out, so although you will see a few other divers underwater, it's not too bad.
In referencing the number of dives you have listed in your profile - a good rule of thumb to follow when you don't have complete information or a solid reference from someone: the more remote the better the diving. If it's easy to get there, it will have "diving pressure" from hundreds if not thousands of other divers. You will see this in the health of the reefs, the animal life, and the pollution.
If you need to save Komodo for another trip, I understand. For me personally, Komodo (as a unique dive experience) would be rated higher than diving anywhere around Manado, so I would focus the trip around that part, and see what else I could fit in (but that's just me...).
We are currently thinking 4 nights in Lembeh, 4 nights in Bangka and 4 nights in Bunaken, so should have enough time to cover that region.
Time and budget are not really an issue, I just don't like wasting time in transit or flights unless really necessary. However it feels like Komodo is worth the extra effort. Do you think we can fly Manado to Komodo on the same day (will have to pick up luggage in Bali then check in for the second flight)?
If Bali (Tulamben etc) diving is as good as N Sulawesi (or better), then we are also happy to do just Bali + Komodo.
cetacean
Contributor
Iunderstand the "wasting time" comment, but also consider Indonesia is a developing country, it's not anywhere near the same as trying to get around Europe. Add in that Manado and Komodo are ~1200km apart (similar distance between London and Madrid), and you have to stop and transit somewhere in between to get there.
You basically have a few choices (all are viable, with different levels of risk due to schedule, airline reputation, etc.).
You can either fly early morning from Manado to Jakarta and then connect to a flight to Labuan Bajo (Komodo starting point). This is the longest amount of flying but depending on the day, may allow for travel on the more reliable airlines.
The shorter route is leave Manado early morning, connect in Bali to Labuan Bajo. This is certainly doable in a day, just know that many Indonesian airlines are notorious for either changing schedules, flight delays, or cancelling flights. There is amost nothing you can do about this other than build in flexibility in your schedule. If you are committed to starting your trip in diving in N. Sulawesi, then consider building in an extra day to get to Komodo (arrive a day before your liveaboard leaves). The good thing about Komodo is that almost every liveaboard will be able to arrange transport to the boat the day after a departure because the area is reasonable small, etc. (if you were to miss a flight, or the flight schedule changed). You might miss the first couple of dives, but you would be able to catch up to the boat.
A number of the airlines in Indonesia are somewhat unreliable. It's not that they cancel all the time, it's that its random - you can't count on a given schedule so you really need to build in a little buffer.
Having said this, transiting in Bali (rechecking bags, etc.) is easy. It's a modern airport, comparable to what you find in Europe.
Another consideration if you have a bit of flexibility... you can now fly Singapore to Labuan Bajo direct one day a week (Thursday). This saves much of the transit issues, if you can start in Komodo,
Bali diving is significantly different than N Sulawesi. Given this is your first time, I would suggest N Sulawesi if you can make the Komodo part work as well. Many people combine Bali and Komodo because it is easier, just as some combine N. Sulawesi with Raja Ampat (the flight schedules are somewhat easier to align).
Luko
Contributor
To your first question definitely yes. it was answered in the first comments.
Manado to Bali early morning flight with TransNusa which is non-stop then there are loads of DPS-LBJ during the day.
Then for your other question, I think you have a prioritization issue and I'm not sure I understand now what you're looking for. At first you claimed you wanted to see Mola mola, then Bali it is and nowhere else.
Now you're going for N/Sulawesi full trip including the three main spots Bunaken+Bangka+Lembeh even wondering for Tumbak.
It's your first trip in Indonesia, you can't do everything : don't worry if you're still interested in diving you will come back (I will be on my 27th trip to Indo next april, 28th in August).
The thing you must decide upon is what you are going to focus on for THIS particular trip :
- Mola mola? Bali then and you're in season.
- Corals? Komodo for sure but in Bangka you will dive on one of the most colorful coral spot called Sahaung (check my Flickr gallery I have images to back my words).
- N/Sulawesi Bangka : I've seen more dugongs in less dives around West Manado area than in Bangka, but there is more to see in Bangka.
- Not sure about muck? Lembeh is one of the places in Indonesia but you will have muck dives in Bangka as well some as good as Lembeh's, you can have some very good ones in Bali too and even on Manado shores. Muck is not something you will miss out anywhere in Indonesia, ther are lots of places where you will do muck dives.
Personally after 6 stays on Bangka, 3 trips in Lembeh and 2 around Bunaken/Manado, I would state :
- Bunaken is quite disappointing in terms of corals compared to many other sites in Indonesia, walls & walls, not that great corals. I would rather dive Bunaken from a Manado based operation, at least you can go downtown or plan some mainland visits.
- Lembeh is exclusively muck dives (some will argue there are some coral dives further away, on a good day, etc. however an exception doesn't make it a rule) yo u like it or you don't.
Having been twice to Lembeh Resort my opinion is that for crazy Raja Ampat like prices, the value is not delivered, plus you stumble into groups. Add on top, it's been a long time some of the best Lembeh guides (Ronald, Andy, etc.) have fled from LR. There are many options in Lembeh, much of them much cheaper than LR with as good if not better guides.
- Bangka, I usually stayed at Murex because it was small with a great guide. Now the guide is gone (to Bali/Padang Bai btw), the new constructions have ruined the barefeet in the sand/family resort feel and the price skyrocketed, I think there are other options worth. Gangga island resort was fantastic when it was Swiss owned : now sold to a Dive Chain operation, not the same luxurious "swiss hospitality" atmosphere anymore, isn't worth the price IMO plus the location is further away than the other resorts. Coral Eye even though expensive would be my favorite because of the management, the location and the splendid accoms.
I will have a different stand here : many remote spots in Indonesia can be deceiving because of they are overfished and sometimes bombed by the local population, so it's tricky. It often needs proper protected areas and resorts to select the best dive conditions. Ask yourself a question : Tumbak is not that far from Manado and there are humpty dive resorts and dive centres from Manado to Lembeh, while only one in Tumbak. The owners of Lembeh resort tried to open a lodge and dive centre down south there, never worked. How's that?
Once again, that's your first time in Indonesia, you'll be completely satisfied with the easy to go/ easy ti dive locations why try to go for adventure at first and be disappointed. Leave that for later if you still wish.
So as I am not in your mind, I would advise :
- you should not skip Komodo BUT don't dive it first place, you will be better off after you already wetted your fins elsewhere and accustomed your mind/your buoyancy with easier dives, especially if you go for a short liveabaord (which is the favored option for Komodo).
- you have time for three locations without hurrying but don't try to see everything for the first time and try to ask yourself. Mola mola/No Mola mola? Little muck/ Much muck? Luxury/mid range accoms?
cetacean
Contributor
@Luko
I think most folks are aware of your significant volume of trips to Indonesia. This provide some backing for your opinions, it's doesn't make them any more right or wrong...
First - I lived in Singapore for 5 years. We took long weekend trips to Manado and Bali to dive quite often (so much so that we stopped counting quite a while ago).
Re: Bunaken - for someone who hasn't dived the region. Bunaken is absolutely worth it. I fully agree that if you dive Komodo or Raja first, it might be a bit of a disappointment to then visit Bunaken, but for a first trip in the region, very supportive of this choice. They started to protect the region 30+ years ago. It's a success story (as much as any marine national park can be in Indonesia). Definitely worth a visit. I dived it for the first time in '95. Has it changed? Of course it has... however it is still way better than many areas that have not been protected in Indonesia.
Re: Bangka - I also stayed many times at the old (previously Swiss run) Gangga Resort. The area is much less appealing now that they are gone.
Re: Lembeh - there are many places in Indonesia to dive muck (I've even explored several in Wakatobi) however if you want to experience muck diving, both the critters and the style of diving, Lembeh is one of the world's best (I prefer Anilao, but that just me). Suggesting this experience is at best an exaggeration, or just uninformed. Also as an aside, LR is still the premier dive resort in Lembeh, I've dived with almost all of them, including several that are no longer in business (including the old KBR, even when it wasn't "old")
Fully agree with your last point "don't try to see everything for the first time"
For the above reasons (and scheduling, as well as convenience) the OP is building a solid plan for a first trip to the region.
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