Question Noob looking for help with Bauer Junior 2

[IMADMAN]

Recently pick up a Bauer Junior 2. I like to hook this up to my home (outdoors)
I have a few questions- I need an outlet plug, do I have a single phase or 3 phase unit? Will it work with my 240v dryer outlet?
It was made in 1999 when I do an oil change do I need to stick with mineral type oil or can I use synthetic? I read some where that the 225 Bar version can be adjusted up to 5000psi. Is this something anyone can do or does it need to be done at Bauer?
TIA! for any information to get me started.

 

[Mudbags]

I would just change the motor

Sounds like you need 110V 60Hz motor to run the compressor at home. Motors are pretty cheap.

Need to buy:

- 110V 60Hz motor, 90L frame, foot mount, top mounted terminal box.
- 1610 taper lock bush to suit the shaft size on the new motor. Shafts are usually 19mm (3/4") or 22mm. Motor supplier should have them.
- The existing motor pulley and vbelt will fit the new motor and taper lock bush.

To change it:
- belt guard off
- belt off
- pulley/bush off
- undo motor mount bolts
- swap motors over (use same mounting holes as the old one)
- install new bush and pulley (align motor and compressor pulleys with a straight edge).
- install belt, check tension (should be tight with a small amount of play in it)
- run compressor without belt guard, check alignment (don't lose a finger please)
- check direction of rotation (should be fine but doesn't hurt to check).
- belt guard back on

Now your compressor has been Americanised. Easy peasy.

As for wiring it to a drier outlet... no idea on that. We just have active/neutral/earth on all single phase outlets here. Get an electrician to help.

 

[IMADMAN]

I would just change the motor

Sounds like you need 110V 60Hz motor to run the compressor at home. Motors are pretty cheap.

Need to buy:

- 110V 60Hz motor, 90L frame, foot mount, top mounted terminal box.
- 1610 taper lock bush to suit the shaft size on the new motor. Shafts are usually 19mm (3/4") or 22mm. Motor supplier should have them.
- The existing motor pulley and vbelt will fit the new motor and taper lock bush.

To change it:
- belt guard off
- belt off
- pulley/bush off
- undo motor mount bolts
- swap motors over (use same mounting holes as the old one)
- install new bush and pulley (align motor and compressor pulleys with a straight edge).
- install belt, check tension (should be tight with a small amount of play in it)
- run compressor without belt guard, check alignment (don't lose a finger please)
- check direction of rotation (should be fine but doesn't hurt to check).
- belt guard back on

Now your compressor has been Americanised. Easy peasy.

As for wiring it to a drier outlet... no idea on that. We just have active/neutral/earth on all single phase outlets here. Get an electrician to help.

Got it on the professional electrician part. If I wanted to convert to gas (Honda) type motor, what size should I consider? GS160 or? Thanks again!

 

[clownfishsydney]

See my website page for answers to some of your questions: Michael McFadyen's Scuba Diving Web Site

From what you have said, the dryer power should be okay to power it. Just run it for a while and see if it overheats.

 

[IMADMAN]

See my website page for answers to some of your questions: Michael McFadyen's Scuba Diving Web Site

From what you have said, the dryer power should be okay to power it. Just run it for a while and see if it overheats.

Thanks will check it out.

 

[Gone for diving]

Don't worry about the 50 hz, yes it's not right, but all 50hz motors I have use on 60hz are not a problem.
It will however spin slightly faster than rated,

Looks like there is a switch on the side of the motor electrical box.

Definitely get familiar with wiring. But in the box on the motor, 1 wire will go to the frame and be ground, the other 2 are your 220v feed in.
Doesn't matter which way to hook them up it will turn the same way.
But definitely double check compressor rotation.
If it's wrong rewiring rotaion will be alot more complex....

Electric on that pump, is soooooo much nicer than gas, gas engine makes it shake way to much and noisy like crazy. 3hp gas is not enough. You need 5hp, I have tried...

I have made mine easily switchable to gas or electric, with a VFD on the motor.
But if you don't need a portable compressor, stay electric.

 

[Gone for diving]

As for wiring it to a drier outlet... no idea on that. We just have active/neutral/earth on all single phase outlets here. Get an electrician to help.

Your dryer plug has grd 2pc 220v and the L shaped pin is 110v which you don't need.
Problem is, good luck getting an extension cord unless you home make it, You really should install a 50A welder plug .

One other possibility, is a cheater cord that can give you 220v from 2 110v plugs, but this will require so knowledge to build, most kitchens have split 110v plugs, or you find 2 110v plugs on different circuits, and you will get 15 A 220v. Not a good long term solution, but definitely handly for traveling etc.

 

[PR_SMITH]

Looks like a single phase unit.
Check the plate on the electric motor, it will tell you the operating voltage.
If it's 240V you will need a 15A outlet as the running current is about 13.9A.

Stay with mineral oil if you're just pumping air. There's no benefit to changing to synthetic unless you want to run nitrox through the machine.

All Juniors are good for 4800psi/330 bar. The only difference is the setting of the final safety valve and the type of cylinder connection on the filling valve. The adjustment is simple but safety valves shouldn't be adjusted by untrained people, get a compressor tech to help.

Edit: just saw your close up, it's single phase 220V. Isn't mains power in the US 110V?

Mains power in the USA is 110v 60hz for most things, 220v 60Hz for heavier items like dryers, stoves, etc.

 

[PR_SMITH]

Got it on the professional electrician part. If I wanted to convert to gas (Honda) type motor, what size should I consider? GS160 or? Thanks again!

5hp would do nicely

 

[IMADMAN]

Your dryer plug has grd 2pc 220v and the L shaped pin is 110v which you don't need.
Problem is, good luck getting an extension cord unless you home make it, You really should install a 50A welder plug .
View attachment 807536View attachment 807537
One other possibility, is a cheater cord that can give you 220v from 2 110v plugs, but this will require so knowledge to build, most kitchens have split 110v plugs, or you find 2 110v plugs on different circuits, and you will get 15 A 220v. Not a good long term solution, but definitely handly for traveling etc.
View attachment 807542

I’m picking up this later today. The compressor won’t see heavy use. Will be using it to top off 88cuft SCBA tanks from 2000psi to 4500psi.

 

[BRT]

I would just change the motor

Sounds like you need 110V 60Hz motor to run the compressor at home. Motors are pretty cheap.

Need to buy:

- 110V 60Hz motor, 90L frame, foot mount, top mounted terminal box.
- 1610 taper lock bush to suit the shaft size on the new motor. Shafts are usually 19mm (3/4") or 22mm. Motor supplier should have them.
- The existing motor pulley and vbelt will fit the new motor and taper lock bush.

To change it:
- belt guard off
- belt off
- pulley/bush off
- undo motor mount bolts
- swap motors over (use same mounting holes as the old one)
- install new bush and pulley (align motor and compressor pulleys with a straight edge).
- install belt, check tension (should be tight with a small amount of play in it)
- run compressor without belt guard, check alignment (don't lose a finger please)
- check direction of rotation (should be fine but doesn't hurt to check).
- belt guard back on

Now your compressor has been Americanised. Easy peasy.

As for wiring it to a drier outlet... no idea on that. We just have active/neutral/earth on all single phase outlets here. Get an electrician to help.

No. Do not put it on 110 volt. Too high of amperage needed. And all range and dryer outlets are 240 volt.